If your neutral light is cutting out too when it dies, that indicates an electrical problem. Some things to check would be the key switch and the kill switch. Also check your fuse. If you have the old original glass fuse set-up, you should probably upgrade that to a modern blade type fuse. Bad original fuse holders are common on these bikes. They get weak and don't grip the fuse good enough anymore. That can result in an intermittent loss of contact and power flow, just like you seem to be experiencing.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
White smoke - engine block area from somewhere...
- Thread starter jakobgoodnessgracious
- Start date
-
- Tags
- engine block smoke
jakobgoodnessgracious
XS650 Addict
It is idling at about 1300 when hot. It doesn't hang though when coming back down.
5twins, do you have any theories on why it wouldn't start appearing until after it's been warmed up more? That's the part I don't get. I don't get any stuttering in the engine until after it's been ridden for maybe over 20 minutes or so. Electrically I would think that it would be consistent across the board regardless of warmed or not.
Also, looked searched for 'upgrade fuse box' here, but was wondering: do I just need to buy a new fuse box to change to the blade fuses?
P.S. you guys think just going ahead and buying a new wiring harness would make the old girl happy?
I found this harness: http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/categ...main-wiring-harness-tx650a-xs650b-1974-7.html
Seems like a worthwhile investment. . .
5twins, do you have any theories on why it wouldn't start appearing until after it's been warmed up more? That's the part I don't get. I don't get any stuttering in the engine until after it's been ridden for maybe over 20 minutes or so. Electrically I would think that it would be consistent across the board regardless of warmed or not.
Also, looked searched for 'upgrade fuse box' here, but was wondering: do I just need to buy a new fuse box to change to the blade fuses?
P.S. you guys think just going ahead and buying a new wiring harness would make the old girl happy?
I found this harness: http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/categ...main-wiring-harness-tx650a-xs650b-1974-7.html
Seems like a worthwhile investment. . .
Last edited:
DanielBlack
XS650 Junkie
Jakob, I'd hold off on purchasing a new harness.
Yesterday I was about to purchase a new ignition coil, it had quite bit of corrosion on the secondaries. A few minutes and a small amount of baking soda from the kitchen later, she's clean, tests out fine, and I'm back in business. That would have been $130 for no good reason. The spark plug leads are shot, they'll be replaced.
Do go through every single connector on your bike. Clean each terminal until it's bright and tight. Add a little dielectric grease on clean terminals and they should stay that way. Replace the glass inline fuse with a blade-type.
Temperature can most definitely affect conductivity through a system. Electricity warms things up, temperature makes things grow (at different rates), sometimes breaking connections. Especially dirty, corroded ones. Or crowded itty-bitty ones like on the ignition and kill switches 5twins suggests.
The harness is the backbone of the electrical system. But maybe your intermittency is in a switch or other component? A new harness wouldn't fix that.
Yesterday I was about to purchase a new ignition coil, it had quite bit of corrosion on the secondaries. A few minutes and a small amount of baking soda from the kitchen later, she's clean, tests out fine, and I'm back in business. That would have been $130 for no good reason. The spark plug leads are shot, they'll be replaced.
Do go through every single connector on your bike. Clean each terminal until it's bright and tight. Add a little dielectric grease on clean terminals and they should stay that way. Replace the glass inline fuse with a blade-type.
Temperature can most definitely affect conductivity through a system. Electricity warms things up, temperature makes things grow (at different rates), sometimes breaking connections. Especially dirty, corroded ones. Or crowded itty-bitty ones like on the ignition and kill switches 5twins suggests.
The harness is the backbone of the electrical system. But maybe your intermittency is in a switch or other component? A new harness wouldn't fix that.
Last edited:
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
This is a great little fuse block. Just get the 4 gang and wire it in.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hl...ofHrKKMrlyutoTArE2gryr76hC7cwxTVJUaAoQs8P8HAQ
....
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hl...ofHrKKMrlyutoTArE2gryr76hC7cwxTVJUaAoQs8P8HAQ
....
jakobgoodnessgracious
XS650 Addict
Thanks DanielBlack I appreciate the suggestion. I don't wanna waste my money so I think I will go through and check each connection like you said.
Thanks littlebill I'll check it out.
Thanks littlebill I'll check it out.
jakobgoodnessgracious
XS650 Addict
Hey littlebill, which amp level of the blades would I need?
Would these work?
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-VP-...qid=1488051203&sr=8-3&keywords=blade+fuse+atc
Would these work?
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-VP-...qid=1488051203&sr=8-3&keywords=blade+fuse+atc
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
There are 4 blades in the stock system
The main fuse is 20, ignition 10, headlight 10, and signals 10.
The main fuse is 20, ignition 10, headlight 10, and signals 10.
I'm pretty sure your '74 model only has one fuse, a main 20 amp one. You don't need a fuse block, just an in-line holder for one fuse, something like this .....
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT3/FHAC2BP/N1177.oap?pt=N1177&ppt=C0172
Here's one I added to fuse my Pamco .....
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT3/FHAC2BP/N1177.oap?pt=N1177&ppt=C0172
Here's one I added to fuse my Pamco .....
jakobgoodnessgracious
XS650 Addict
Ah okay that's great thanks 5twins I will grab one of those.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
Crap!!
I really need to check years. Of course, putting the year of the bike you have in the signature area really helps.
I really need to check years. Of course, putting the year of the bike you have in the signature area really helps.
jakobgoodnessgracious
XS650 Addict
Should have it in my signature now.
No problem Littlebill31, I am interested in a new fuse block and what you showed above will be a benefit to me - thank you.
jakobgoodnessgracious
XS650 Addict
I'm pretty sure your '74 model only has one fuse, a main 20 amp one. You don't need a fuse block, just an in-line holder for one fuse, something like this .....
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT3/FHAC2BP/N1177.oap?pt=N1177&ppt=C0172
Here's one I added to fuse my Pamco .....
Hey @5twins, what kind of connector did you use to get the wires connected?
I found these and wasn't sure if they would work or not, just trying not to spend too much money:
https://www.amazon.com/Ninth-City-M...6-9fdc-425a-aee8-c82daa7b18ed&pf_rd_i=desktop
Also, how did you come about that mount?
Thanks,
Jakob
