Why to weld your XS650 Crank - For ALL engines

Great! Thank you so much Hugh! Yeah I've been shopping for a 50 ton press, didn't move fast enough, and missed a couple. I keep thinking a pair of wedges would aid in splitting.

The wedges would help, just be VERY careful in disassembly, if you tweak that center splined shaft, it's going in the scrap bin... BUT, if you do, hit me up, I have a few "Spares" laying around :laugh:
 
20% no survey needed. What are you finding most. outer flywheels ? Welding the center pin. Totally necessary or more as added insurance.

Typically, the inner flywheels will walk out until the flywheels make contact with the cases. The Outers do the same. I'd say they both happen as frequently as the other, with no real rhyme or reason. When we build them, we build them to last, so all joints are welded.
 
Great! Thank you so much Hugh! Yeah I've been shopping for a 50 ton press, didn't move fast enough, and missed a couple. I keep thinking a pair of wedges would aid in splitting.

A 20 Ton will get the job done. I got one from harbor freight $100. Came with two heavy plates. A better press that 50 ton might have had a gauge that tell you how many tons pressure you are using.
 
No doubt Hugh your welded cranks are the strongest and a high quality product. And you personally would not build a crank without welding. 80% of the cranks were good in retrospect. The rephase cranks is reported not to need balancing. Do you think it would self destruct immediately. Or might survive if not going past redline not welded. Ever do and un welded rephrase test motor. I have 277 crank with mikes performance rods not welded.
 
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We used a 50 ton press to build my 270 engine and the new center pin was real tight.

Even with 50 tons the movement was jumpy and made it hard to get the exact clearances.

I think 20 tons is too light and you will have difficulty controlling the fine movement needed to get the last couple of thousand clearances.

We often used a 20 ton press to rebuild Yamaha GT80 crank, worked great.

It's a bit like using a big 5 lb brass hammer to nudge something along with soft blows or beating it to death with a 18 oz framing hammer.

Your choice.

Just my 2 cents.
 
No doubt Hugh your welded cranks are the strongest and a high quality product. And you personally would not build a crank without welding. 80% of the cranks were good in retrospect. The rephase cranks is reported not to need balancing. Do you think it would self destruct immediately. Or might survive if not going past redline not welded. Ever do and un welded rephrase test motor. I have 277 crank with mikes performance rods not welded.

I can tell a HUGE difference in the amount of energy it takes to disassemble a crank vs. the amount of energy it takes to reassemble them. In my opinion, the cranks are more likely to come apart AFTER a rebuild if not welded, being that they have been pressed together, pulled apart, and pressed together once again.

The very first engine I ever built, on my black and white bike, I did not weld the crank. Now, I did run it pretty hard for sure. I tore that engine apart every winter to inspect for damage or wear. The first year, all 4 flywheels had worked apart until they were hitting the cases. I welded up the crank after that and even after destroying valves, pistons, and even a seizure of a piston to the bore, the crank was still reuseable each and every time.

So thats my final answer, weld them ALL, even stock... :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
This thread gives me a chub. I could read stuff like this all day. Only thing better than learning all of this is practicing it. Can't wait to do this to my crank.
 
For what its worth this is a def to do mod. Not to mention you don't have to worry about the crank walking apart when your twisting up the R's. The rephase def smooths out the bike, power feels a little more there in the bottom end.
 
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