schachterle
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Wiring help
- Thread starter schachterle
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schachterle
XS650 Enthusiast
- Messages
- 42
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Can this diagram be used with the regular points set up?
i have completed the "wiring trim down" and the xs and now running with a battery. at about 2k rpms the bikes putting out around 14.4v. ive ordered the ktm part i need to replace the battery. do i needd this pamco set up or will my bike be fine seeing how its putting out 14.4v?
Mark, have you converted to a PM alternator? What ignition are you running? The 14.4 volts at 2k is very good.
rwingsfan
Xs 650 Dummy
Hmmm....did not know they made a 85...Canadian? I run nothing but PM alternators. I used to run the stockers, but got fed up with some component going out every other month. A lot of guys I respect here swear by the stock charging system, but I won't be running one again. Same goes for the TCI ignition, but hey, what the hell do I know 
hmmmm scary stuff. bill of sale said 85 but i dont know how much i trust the guy that sold me the bike. haha, he lives in my neighborhood tho so im not too worried about it.. id be more then happy to run the best alternator i could afford if this one shart the bed but for now ill leave it. same goes for the ign system. i cant get this bike to run right still tho. its really tickin me off!! i have the red/white wire to the coil going striieght to pos terminal on battery. is it possible to have too much voltage? the bike ran fine before i chopped it up, hardtailed it, chopped the wiring harness and so on.... i think the problem can only be electrical, although the carbs could be playing a part in the running of the bike. when it does run, huge back fires, also backfires out the carb.. im stumped.
rwingsfan
Xs 650 Dummy
Well if it ran fine before disassembly then you just have to back track. It is a TCI ignition correct? Get a good wiring diagram and make sure things are where they should be. the other thing I always do is ditch the factory wiring harness and wire it all new with solder, good connectors and heat shrink.
correct, i believe its all stock. Ive done just that with the stock harness, i pretty much set it up exactly like the diagram at the top of this page. only difference is i added one wire from the volts reg brown. that wire goes to power 12+. also so you can ponder, all splices are solder and heat shrink if possible, and i back probed all connectors to test continuity and they are all functioning fine. my problem must lie in the carbs... hmmmm
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
yes! this is the diagram i needed! i pretty much did this set up but from process of elimination. process being the key word. but i have a few changes to make. i have to blow the dust off my camera for a photo shoot so i can show it off to you guys. ok so i see my big big big mistake. here it is, i have brown off the rec/reg going to battery with red. i need brown to go to red/white from elec/ing module. then obv to the coil as well. and the red off the rec/reg going to battery. or would that even matter now that im looking they end up at the same place anyway at the ign switch... i basically did the same thing as that diagram i just switched my ign module to ground as my kill... less chance of a short i figured...
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
You don't want the brown going straight to the battery. This is how mine is and it is very bsimilar to the original/stock diagram. This is just making the wiring simple with out jacking it all up. The brown is like a "main vein". To make it easy, as an example, if you look at the stock diagram, the brown starts at the key switch then ends at the horn, connecting other equipment along the way. Like a big loop. And fuses are really important. I have a horn, signals, and kill switch added to mine. And fuses. Following a diagram is best in order to back track and trace. Yes, you can alter where things connect, and end, and it will work, but there is the chance of frying something too.
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
I can't stress enough the importance of, 1, taking your time in doing it, 2 trace, trace, trace and label, label, label, everything. 3, if you're not sure, stop!
I did mine in a weekend and had never done wiring before. Setting everything up, laying it out, and making sure you have everything before you start is key. And do not just start cutting shit!
Wire, solder, tape, connectors, ect. Don't cheap out. Do it right, do it once.
I did mine in a weekend and had never done wiring before. Setting everything up, laying it out, and making sure you have everything before you start is key. And do not just start cutting shit!
Wire, solder, tape, connectors, ect. Don't cheap out. Do it right, do it once.
I'll try to yell you the difference between a field excited alternator and a permanent magnet alternator.
I'll start with a P/M alternator. As the engine runs a set of magnets spin around a stator. These spinning magnets creates AC electricity in the stator and is sent to a rectifier that converts the AC to DC. This DC voltage is controlled by the regulator. When the voltage sent to the regulator reaches 14.5 volts it shunts the excess to ground. This creates heat to dissipate the extra voltage.
In the field excited alternator, the one our XS650's have, Uses an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet. On your bike when you turn on the key switch power is sent to the regulator and the charging rotor on a brown wire. From the rotor on the green wire to the regulator. The regulator reads battery voltage on the brown wire. If the voltage is below the preset voltage of 14.5 volts it grounds the green wire so power flows thru the rotor.
The power to the rotor creates a magnetic field around the stator. As the rotor spins it creates AC electricity in the stator. This AC is sent to the rectifier and gets converted to DC, This dc is sent to charge the battery. As the battery charges the voltage will increase to the preset 14.5 volts. When the regulator senses when the battery voltage reaches 14.5 volts to ungrounds the green wire and the power stops flowing to the rotor. No power= no magnetic field. No magnet = no electricity in the stator. When this happens the battery voltage starts to drop. When it falls below 14.5 volts the regulator grounds the green wire sending power thru the rotor and starts the charge cycle all over again. This happens thousands of times a second so the battery can maintain a full charge and be able to supply the rest of the electrical system all the power it needs.
At this time you can see that the stock system needs a battery to supply the voltage necessary to get the alternator to produce electricity.
On a P/M alternator the permanent magnet creates the electricty in the stator so a cap can be used with it instead of a battery.
If you want to use the electric stater you need a battery at least as large as the stock battery.
The stock charging system works very well with a minimum of maintainance.
The P/M has a bit more usable output and can function with out a battery.
On your bike the stock TCI, and you want a P/M alternator you will have to go with an aftermarket ignition, or use a points ignition. The TCI won't work on a P/M alternator with a cap.
I hope this helps you out. I think once you get the wiring right the bike should run fine. If not we are here to help.
Was just reading this post. I should add that running the PMA with a battery the stock TCI will work. The battery will provide enough voltage when starting to get the TCI to fire.
I'll start with a P/M alternator. As the engine runs a set of magnets spin around a stator. These spinning magnets creates AC electricity in the stator and is sent to a rectifier that converts the AC to DC. This DC voltage is controlled by the regulator. When the voltage sent to the regulator reaches 14.5 volts it shunts the excess to ground. This creates heat to dissipate the extra voltage.
In the field excited alternator, the one our XS650's have, Uses an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet. On your bike when you turn on the key switch power is sent to the regulator and the charging rotor on a brown wire. From the rotor on the green wire to the regulator. The regulator reads battery voltage on the brown wire. If the voltage is below the preset voltage of 14.5 volts it grounds the green wire so power flows thru the rotor.
The power to the rotor creates a magnetic field around the stator. As the rotor spins it creates AC electricity in the stator. This AC is sent to the rectifier and gets converted to DC, This dc is sent to charge the battery. As the battery charges the voltage will increase to the preset 14.5 volts. When the regulator senses when the battery voltage reaches 14.5 volts to ungrounds the green wire and the power stops flowing to the rotor. No power= no magnetic field. No magnet = no electricity in the stator. When this happens the battery voltage starts to drop. When it falls below 14.5 volts the regulator grounds the green wire sending power thru the rotor and starts the charge cycle all over again. This happens thousands of times a second so the battery can maintain a full charge and be able to supply the rest of the electrical system all the power it needs.
At this time you can see that the stock system needs a battery to supply the voltage necessary to get the alternator to produce electricity.
On a P/M alternator the permanent magnet creates the electricty in the stator so a cap can be used with it instead of a battery.
If you want to use the electric stater you need a battery at least as large as the stock battery.
The stock charging system works very well with a minimum of maintainance.
The P/M has a bit more usable output and can function with out a battery.
On your bike the stock TCI, and you want a P/M alternator you will have to go with an aftermarket ignition, or use a points ignition. The TCI won't work on a P/M alternator with a cap.
I hope this helps you out. I think once you get the wiring right the bike should run fine. If not we are here to help.
Was just reading this post. I should add that running the PMA with a battery the stock TCI will work. The battery will provide enough voltage when starting to get the TCI to fire.
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