This is my favorite method of adding a wire to an existing wire that can't be cut. I take a lighter and melt the insulation away from the area to expose the wire, make a good mechanical connection and then solder. The problem is how to insulate the splice. You can't use shrink tube, not crazy about tape, won't use those t-tap or posi-tap type connectors. They do make a shrinkable adhesive lined tape but have never tried this. Anybody got any good ideas to insulate this type of connection?
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wiring splicing question
- Thread starter Grinder
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Royboy
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Try this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...lectrical-Tape-LTB-400/100119178#.UWvhMc0o5lY
I've used a few times in the situation you are describing. Seemed to work ok.
roy
I've used a few times in the situation you are describing. Seemed to work ok.
roy
Hey Grinder,
What I usually do, for harsh external environments, is to use a little black silicone or RoyRoy's liquid tape on the solder joint, then slide a 2 - 3" piece of shrink tube over it.
Then it looks like one wire magically becomes 2.
What I usually do, for harsh external environments, is to use a little black silicone or RoyRoy's liquid tape on the solder joint, then slide a 2 - 3" piece of shrink tube over it.
Then it looks like one wire magically becomes 2.
You can't use shrink tubing on this type of joint because the wire can't be cut and you have no access to the main wire ends. This is a splice in the middle of a wire. If you cut the wire and splice the three together, the main wire becomes too short.
pristic
XS650 Addict
I use some gasket goo silicone type stuff then heat the joint a bit then use high quality very pliable electrical tape (I use Nitto). The tape doesn't peel off and the heat makes in wrap really nice and tight.
You can't use heat shrink you have to use tape or liquid. No other options.
I do my splices the same way.
Sometimes if I can be bother I take 2 heat shrinks. I split them along one side then put one over one side and the other over the other side so they cover each other. Hard to explain. Then I hear it and they shrink nicely.
If you can find a way to cut the original wire (even if you have to extend it. Then just get Y heat shrinks.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=185-210
Peter.
Posted via Mobile
You can't use heat shrink you have to use tape or liquid. No other options.
I do my splices the same way.
Sometimes if I can be bother I take 2 heat shrinks. I split them along one side then put one over one side and the other over the other side so they cover each other. Hard to explain. Then I hear it and they shrink nicely.
If you can find a way to cut the original wire (even if you have to extend it. Then just get Y heat shrinks.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=185-210
Peter.
Posted via Mobile
Peter, I've tried something similar with the shrink tubing. I have some with the adhesive inside. I split it and wrap the joint so it overlaps on it self. Then secure the ends with some zip ties and heat. The results vary from real good to real bad. The problem is it starts to curl as soon as you apply heat.
Those Y's are interesting but it doesn't say anything about them being shrinkable.
Those Y's are interesting but it doesn't say anything about them being shrinkable.
If you use a heat gun on quality electric tape it really bonds to itself and stays put. 3M 33+ is good stuff. It comes in a plastic snap lid box. This works well on gorilla tape repairs also, apply tape, heat with the heat gun, rub it good and it really stays put.
pristic
XS650 Addict
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
Tim of DO THE TON
XS650 Junkie
Maybe not as elegant as doing a proper splice and solder, but these have worked for me. Have used them to supply power to the Polly Heater heated grip inserts on my BMW (they don't draw much current).
Carbon,
Your link doesn't work for me. I think this is the stuff you're talking about. I found this 25 yards for $35 and I thought it was three times that. It probably is if you need the cert. It is fantastic stuff and I admit there is a few feet of it on my bike.
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
Carbon,
Your link doesn't work for me. I think this is the stuff you're talking about. I found this 25 yards for $35 and I thought it was three times that. It probably is if you need the cert. It is fantastic stuff and I admit there is a few feet of it on my bike.
Yep thats it Marty. Ill have to fix the link Thanks
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
here is a link to a 3M version although its not aircraft tape
http://www.shop3m.com/electrical-rubber-tape.html#.UW1pvAQ8y8g.email
http://www.shop3m.com/electrical-rubber-tape.html#.UW1pvAQ8y8g.email
Last edited:
itrguy
XS650 Addict
Those scotch-locks are junk, they smash the wire and are not in any way element proof...
Tim of DO THE TON
XS650 Junkie
No question they aren't the ideal solution, but then again splicing wire like this is fundamentally not the ideal way to do things.
Put a proper multi bullet connection there or run the new wire back to an existing junction point and add the connection there.
Put a proper multi bullet connection there or run the new wire back to an existing junction point and add the connection there.
That solder connection at the top of the page isn't exactly orthodox. It isn't something I would be willing to do in a vibrating environment like the XS650, especially after taking the insulation off with a flame. I would expect it to break sooner or later. A properly crimped splice is probably the best option in this environment.
Please don't take it that I'm going to belittle anyone for how they get the job done. That isn't the point of this discussion.
Jetmechmarty,
The problem here is I can't cut the wire to add the splice. I'm adding a signal stabilizer to my V Star 1300 because of added LED lighting. The wire harness for the turn signals I need to tap into for the stabilizer runs front to back and is fully wrapped and tied down. If I cut the wire then I have to add wire and more connections and I don't see a way to add a crimped connection without cutting the wire which would then be too short. A crimp type connector would be too bulky as I need three of them in a small harness. I did find some self fusing silicone tape that looks like it might work for $6 at a local auto store.
While I agree that burning the insulation off isn't ideal it works better for me than trying to cut it which usually leaves cut strands.The copper wire underneath is always nice and shiney, not discolored from heat. It really doesn't take alot of heat to melt the insulation. I built my entire XS harness from scratch using the solder/adnesive lined shrink tube method and have never had any problems. I can't say I've never had a problem with a crimp type connector.
The problem here is I can't cut the wire to add the splice. I'm adding a signal stabilizer to my V Star 1300 because of added LED lighting. The wire harness for the turn signals I need to tap into for the stabilizer runs front to back and is fully wrapped and tied down. If I cut the wire then I have to add wire and more connections and I don't see a way to add a crimped connection without cutting the wire which would then be too short. A crimp type connector would be too bulky as I need three of them in a small harness. I did find some self fusing silicone tape that looks like it might work for $6 at a local auto store.
While I agree that burning the insulation off isn't ideal it works better for me than trying to cut it which usually leaves cut strands.The copper wire underneath is always nice and shiney, not discolored from heat. It really doesn't take alot of heat to melt the insulation. I built my entire XS harness from scratch using the solder/adnesive lined shrink tube method and have never had any problems. I can't say I've never had a problem with a crimp type connector.
Last edited:
pristic
XS650 Addict
Grinder. Honestly, I would cut it, add an inch or two and your T joint. Before you do, slip on the heat shrinks. Worst case you will have a really neat 1" or 2" heat shrink.
I still don't quite understand why extending it is a problem. But I'm probably missing setting.
Posted via Mobile
I still don't quite understand why extending it is a problem. But I'm probably missing setting.
Posted via Mobile
Curtis P
XS650 Addict
Never been a fan of splicing a wire in the middle of it... if I must i go near a junction where it can be in hooked and slide shrink tube over it so the elements stay away from it.
Tape, no matter how good it is and even heated up will hold salt and grime and eventually peel and then expose wire that was soldered. I have tried a few different liquid tapes, not much luck, silicone works if you can get it really clean to let it stick and cure to it
Tape, no matter how good it is and even heated up will hold salt and grime and eventually peel and then expose wire that was soldered. I have tried a few different liquid tapes, not much luck, silicone works if you can get it really clean to let it stick and cure to it
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