RUNNING BOYER with ROTOR/STATOR

Fellers,

My second project, the E-Type Banana is sitting there, engine rebuilt, waiting to see if it will fire.

I have a Boyer for it, but no PMA yet. Rotor/stator is in there, though, so I thought I would have a go.

just need to wire in the correct regulator/rectifier, here's the question:

On my first bike I have PMA and Boyer. The PMA has 3 x white wires coming out, the R/S has six - take one out the equation (the yellow to safety relay) leaving 3 x white, 1 x green, 1 x black.

Correct me if I am wrong anyone, but I take it that the R/S set-up must and can only link to a regulator/rectifier with 7 wires (3 x white, 1 x green, 1 x black, 1 x brown, and 1 x red)?

I have both kinds here.

Thanks, fellers.

ANLAF

By rotor and stator I assume you mean the stock ones. The reg/rec you are using is that a stock one too?
If so just wire them up the same as stock.
The stock reg/rec won't work with w PMA. A PMA reg/rec won't work with a stock rotor and stator.
Yes the stock rotor and stator need the 7 wire reg/rec. The three with wires are the AC output from the Stator to the rectifier half of the reg/rec. The rectifier converts the AC to DC and sends it out on the RED wire to battery positive, the black to ground.
The brown wire from the stator goes to power after the switch. This supplies the power needed to magnetize the rotor.
The brown wire to the reg/rec goes to the regulator half of the reg/rec. It uses this wire to read battery voltage. It uses this reading to know when the battery is low.
The green wire from the stator goes to the reg half of the reg/rec.
When the battery reads low the reg grounds the green wire to turn on the current through the rotor.
This Excites the stator into creating the AC voltage Which gets converted to DC to charge the battery. As the battery voltage rises the reg reads the voltage and when it reaches about 14.5 volts it turns off the current flow, stopping stator output. This lets battery voltage drop. If it gets below the 14.5 volts it turns back on. It cycles on/off thousand of time per second to keep the battery charged.
Leo

Thanks Leo. Do the brown wire initiates a magnetic field. I learnt something there. I had thought it was the turning of the rotor that started that off. If course, that's how the slap test can show 12v from the battery and check for grounding.

As for the reg/rec, the regulator regulates the flow of current, i.e. trips at 14.5, and the rectifier rectifies the type of current AC to DC - did I understand that correctly? If so, I think I am might be ready to try and get my head around how the heck those little diode things work in that reg/rec - from my starting point of near complete ignorance I believe they are some sort of valve that allows current to flow one way but not the other prevents current.

Yes, now I understand the rotor/stator (yes, original set-up) will work only with the original reg/rec.

ANLAF

The regulator regulates voltage. The 14.5 is volts. Current is amps.
I think you understand it.
Yes, diodes are a one way valve for electricity. The rectifier is a series of 6 diodes arranged so the AC can only flow one way, DC. If you google rectifier you will get a better explanation than I can.
The brown wire supplies the current through the rotor to create the magnetism the rotor needs to have, On the rotor one end becomes the positive pole of the magnet, the other end negative. Looking at the side of the rotor you see triangular shaped pieces of steel. Some point one way, some the other. These are part of the rotor ends, this makes four of these positive and four negative. They alternate positive and negative.
In the stator are 12 windings. These are arranged into three groups.
Now as the rotor turns a positive triangle passes one of these windings As it passes it creates a positive current in the windings. then a negative triangle passes the same winding, this creates a negative current flow in the winding.
This happens in all three groups of windings at the same time. Each group of windings are set up to be 120 degrees apart, so you get three sets of voltages coming out of the stator 120 degrees apart, thus the term three phase.
These voltages come out the three white wires. In three phase AC. These white wires are hooked up to the six diodes that convert the AC to DC.
The brown wire supplies the current flow through the rotor. The regulator controls the ground for the rotor. When grounded the current flows through the rotor. This creates the full output of the alternator. This full output charges the battery as I spoke of earlier. When the battery reaches full charge it ungrounds the rotor.
Once you understand just how this works it demystifies the whole thing. Makes it simple.
Knowing how it works makes it easier to figure out what's wrong and fix it.
Leo

Leo, that explanation certainly helps, and now I understand how the rotor/stator works on engine 2 and how Hughs PMA works on engine 1. I spent an idle hour checking out diodes on the internet - I just discovered circuit boards. What! all this time and I didn't know about transistors and capacitors. I feel another idle hour coming on, and a spree ordering some of these small things to play with just pushing wires into holes and watching stuff light up. Does this mean I can make a circuit board for the bike? What! goodbye rats nest?

ANLAF