Swing arm Pivot bolt push

EvenmoreXS · Feb 9, 2013

Question? Do I need to take the weight off the swing arm before I use this steel rod to push out the broken pivot bolt, or will it be fine to push it out. I would then use the new pivot bolt to slowly push out the steel rod. That way there would always be something in the swing arm during the process. If i do need to, then I would just put a jack under it and lift it just enough to put most of the weight on the jack. Otherwise I will just go ahead and do it.

Reason for asking........wife drove off with my jack in the jeep. :doh:

I'll have to wait for her to get back if i need it.

Thanks.

5twins · Feb 9, 2013

Well, I don't know, common sense (to me anyway) would say to take all weight and stress off the pivot bolt, put the bike on the centerstand, remove the rear wheel, etc. But .... that's just my take on it. Do it your way with a load still on the pivot and let us know how it goes, lol.

EvenmoreXS · Feb 10, 2013

I cant disagree with the common sense part, thats why i asked first. But, I've looked it over pretty well, I think removing the rear wheel is probably over kill. The pivot bolt moves freely even now with the weight on it. Thats why I thought I could slide it out and the new one in with no issues. I will fill the new part with grease and try to get it done. I will keep you updated. Just got the chain on last week. Really dont want to take the back wheel off.

Geez...

To be continued............

5twins · Feb 10, 2013

If one of your mods was the bronze swingarm bushings then there are some additional steps you should take to insure they get properly lubed. The original plastic bushings were designed to receive their grease supply from the side and the original grease nipples on the pivot bolt ends are set up to do that. The bronze bushings are designed to receive their grease supply from the rear. There are 2 methods to achieve this. You can use either but I prefer to do both. First, install a new grease fitting on the bottom middle of the arm. Using a 45° angled fitting makes access easier .....

Second, add 2 additional holes to the pivot sleeve about at the center. In stock form, the sleeve only has grease outlet holes at each end (blue arrows) which fed grease to the sides of the original bushings. Adding holes to the center (red arrows) will allow grease out there and it will then go into the backs of the new bushings. With this mod, the additional grease fitting isn't needed but like I said, I do both .....

Bigfeet · Feb 10, 2013

5twins That's a good tip. I'm doing my swing arm right now. Curious about the placement of the grease fitting though. Why on the bottom?

5twins · Feb 10, 2013

It's easier to access with your grease gun there. Also note the placement - on the edge of the plate welded to the cross tube. You want the extra thickness the plate provides so the threaded portion of the grease fitting doesn't protrude through and rub on the pivot tube. Even if you install the extra fitting, continue to give the originals an occasional shot of grease. This will keep the area between the bolt and sleeve greased so the two don't seize together.

Bigfeet · Feb 10, 2013

Good points. Do you know off the top of your head what the thread pitch for common grease fitting is? Although it wouldn't be hard to figure out.

EvenmoreXS · Feb 10, 2013

Well, It worked. Didnt take very long either. I used the steel rod to tap out the original pivot bolt. The steel rod was 5/8ths of an inch. Then used the new pivot bolt to tap out the steel bar, very slowly, Used a socket over the nipple so as not to hit it....I picked up the frame of the bike with my winch and had a jack under the frame to where there was as little weight on the swingarm as possible, but enough to keep everything in place while I removed and installed the new bolt. I pre-greased the bolt before reinstall and some extra after. I dont yet have the brass bushings, I do plan to update that in the future. Maybe this method could help someone out in a pinch one day. Much faster than removing the back wheel and if you set it up properly before removal, I think its just as safe as if you had removed the back wheel. Gotta set it up just right first though.

Now for my valve tick and carb sync... Well not now.... Later.... :thumbsup:

zmaxmotorsports · Feb 11, 2013

How did you manage to break the pivot bolt?
Id do a little investigating as to why it broke and check the bushings and sleeve inside the swingarm for wear/damage rather than just putting a new bolt in there myself anyway. :wink2:

EvenmoreXS · Feb 11, 2013

I think it was a slippy kick i made. Only thing I can figure. It happend in my garage before I test rode her. It didnt happen while riding. And it sheered off outside of the bushings. I think it was dumb un-luck and human error. But i will be keeping a very close eye on it.

Thanks for the concern. Very good point. I rode for about 10 miles after install.

:thumbsup:

pregrid · Feb 11, 2013

What the heck is a slippy kick?

EvenmoreXS · Feb 11, 2013

Here you go. Slippy kick.

If you hit the kick just the right way with your head, she starts. If you miss, you break your pivot bolt.

XSLeo · Feb 11, 2013

The way the pivot bolt is made the threads are on a reduced diameter section. If improperly tightened it can crack where the reduced part joins the full size section. After a while the crack widens enough so the threaded portion breaks off.
A not uncommon thing.
Leo

EvenmoreXS · Feb 11, 2013

Whats the proper torque for that nut Leo. I want to check it when i get home.

How bout that slippy kick ! Everyones gonna be starting their bikes that way in the future.

weekendrider · Feb 11, 2013

BWHAHAHAHAHA.
I think you are giving your kicking abilites too much credit if you think you Chuck Norris'd it. Granted you may have delivered the straw that broke the camels back.
The OEM stress cracks at the neck of the reduced threaded portion.
If you run the original you might check it from time to time.
Mikes full thread replacement is one of the good parts.
Torque spec is 47 ft. lbs.
Here are a couple of reference links.

http://650rider.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6645

http://www.650motorcycles.com/PivotBolt.html

EvenmoreXS · Feb 11, 2013

I'll look into that mikes part when I redo the bushings and all that good stuff. I got a nice used one from dogbunny last week. It'll keep me riding untill I can renew it all. I'll check that torque tonight. Thanks.

I am Carbon · Feb 11, 2013

slippy kick now thats some funny stuff!

XSLeo · Feb 11, 2013

In my factory manual for the D model it specs 36-58 ft/lbs. in the section for the 73-76 section it calls for 862 - 955 in/lbs converted to ft/lbs that's 71.8 - 79.5 ft/lbs. in my 78 up books it calls for 47 ft/lbs.
When I redid my 75's bushings I found the lighter settings the swing arm had excess play. I found that with the wheel out, shocks unhooked so the swing arm had nothing putting pressure on it that at the lighter torque the swing arm had to much side play and if you pick the swing arm up to level and let it go it would drop on it's own. This means the swing arm is pivoting around the pivot bolt not the pivot tube. Because the frame was not pulled in tight to the pivot shaft. It needs to be tight enough for the frame to hold the pivot tube from turning. This way the swing arm pivots around the pivot tube.
I added torque until the frame held the pivot tube. I could tell when this happened because when you move the swing arm to level and let it go it stays inplace. You can still move it easily but it stays where you put it. I found this to be about 55-60 ft/lbs of torque. It may vary a bit on your bike.
Leo

weekendrider · Feb 11, 2013

Interesting Leo. I've used the 47 ft lbs and it will slowly fall but didn't have any side to side so quit there. Next time I do one I'll try your advice. And I've added your note to my manual.

I am Carbon · Feb 11, 2013

really good info I've added it to my checklist thanks,Leo

Swing arm Pivot bolt push

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