Throw a rod in the RHS and I’ll bet she’ll run like new!
Throw a rod in the RHS and I’ll bet she’ll run like new!
Took apart the front drums today and found VW used ball bearings in the front hubs vs roller bearings. Unfortunately for me, one ball in the rhs outer cage is chewed up a bit, so I’ll have to replace that bearing. The new replacements are roller bearings. Is it a no no to run a roller bearing on the outside and a ball bearing on the inside of the same drum?
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I never thought of that. Might be worth looking into because the races are in good shape. I’ll measure them today. Thx.Balls can usually be bought .. Might not be the best solution here .. It depends how tight the cage is
and how the race looks A lot of miles replacement is one way forward
But all balls renewed is another
Found 10mm chrome steel balls on Amazon, 20 pcs for about $11. A new tapered bearing plus a matching inner tapered bearing would have cost me close to $100 shipped. When they arrive I’ll measure them and if close enough to the factory diameter, I’ll swap the one ball. If too far off I’ll swap all 10. I’d rather not do all 10 because the removal process distorts the retaining cage a bit. Thanks for the suggestion @Jan_PBalls can usually be bought .. Might not be the best solution here .. It depends how tight the cage is
and how the race looks A lot of miles replacement is one way forward
But all balls renewed is another
I has been a while since I was into steel qualities. And not on AISI Standards at allFound 10mm carbon steel balls on Amazon, 20 pcs for about $11. A new tapered bearing plus a matching inner tapered bearing would have cost me close to $100 shipped. When they arrive I’ll measure them and if close enough to the factory diameter, I’ll swap the one ball. If too far off I’ll swap all 10. I’d rather not do all 10 because the removal process distorts the retaining cage a bit. Thanks for the suggestion @Jan_P
Noted....plus a way to hold your small parts while you’re painting them and letting them dry - welding magnets.
I was painting the bits with POR15 with a brush. If you want to spray paint stuff, just wrap the magnet in a plastic bag. I liked this because I just stuck the magnets to the vise for drying.Noted.
I'ma steal that idea!
ANY safety wiring will do the job. I don't think I've ever seen a safety wire job that some one wouldn't critique.
(military instructors are the worst )
That’s pretty much how I safety wired the hubcaps (part of the anti skid system) on a Boeing 727. If the wire breaks, you’ll know one or more of the bolts has moved.Check out the factory safety wire on the three backing plate bolts. I guess back in ‘57 that was an acceptable way to install the wire. I just purchased wire and pliers and hope I do it the correct way.
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That’s pretty much how I safety wired the hubcaps (part of the anti skid system) on a Boeing 727. If the wire breaks, you’ll know one or more of the bolts has moved.
Both.Ok so is the wire more of a loss of torque indicator vs a device to prevent fastener rotation?
Yes, to a degree. It should also keep the bolt from backing out, even if the torque is lost. As an A&P, I was trained to look for broken safety wire. I looked at a lot of 727 hubcaps every day, focusing on that piece of safety wire.Ok so is the wire more of a loss of torque indicator vs a device to prevent fastener rotation?