Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

Took apart the front drums today and found VW used ball bearings in the front hubs vs roller bearings. Unfortunately for me, one ball in the rhs outer cage is chewed up a bit, so I’ll have to replace that bearing. The new replacements are roller bearings. Is it a no no to run a roller bearing on the outside and a ball bearing on the inside of the same drum?


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Took apart the front drums today and found VW used ball bearings in the front hubs vs roller bearings. Unfortunately for me, one ball in the rhs outer cage is chewed up a bit, so I’ll have to replace that bearing. The new replacements are roller bearings. Is it a no no to run a roller bearing on the outside and a ball bearing on the inside of the same drum?


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Balls can usually be bought .. Might not be the best solution here .. It depends how tight the cage is
and how the race looks A lot of miles replacement is one way forward
But all balls renewed is another
 
Balls can usually be bought .. Might not be the best solution here .. It depends how tight the cage is
and how the race looks A lot of miles replacement is one way forward
But all balls renewed is another
I never thought of that. Might be worth looking into because the races are in good shape. I’ll measure them today. Thx.
 
Balls can usually be bought .. Might not be the best solution here .. It depends how tight the cage is
and how the race looks A lot of miles replacement is one way forward
But all balls renewed is another
Found 10mm chrome steel balls on Amazon, 20 pcs for about $11. A new tapered bearing plus a matching inner tapered bearing would have cost me close to $100 shipped. When they arrive I’ll measure them and if close enough to the factory diameter, I’ll swap the one ball. If too far off I’ll swap all 10. I’d rather not do all 10 because the removal process distorts the retaining cage a bit. Thanks for the suggestion @Jan_P 👍
 
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Found 10mm carbon steel balls on Amazon, 20 pcs for about $11. A new tapered bearing plus a matching inner tapered bearing would have cost me close to $100 shipped. When they arrive I’ll measure them and if close enough to the factory diameter, I’ll swap the one ball. If too far off I’ll swap all 10. I’d rather not do all 10 because the removal process distorts the retaining cage a bit. Thanks for the suggestion @Jan_P 👍
I has been a while since I was into steel qualities. And not on AISI Standards at all
But Maybe the balls needs to be of other steel material than Carbon Steel
Maybe you have checked already but there are info on line -- some there
Please check if you have not done it already So the one ball is not to soft

https://www.bellballs.com/info/steel-ball-material-grade-comparison-table-93396844.html
 
The ones I bought are supposed to be made from AISI 52100 (but are probably Chinesium). I’ll see what they look like and if in doubt I won’t use them. I can try running a file over them to test for hardness. Not a big risk - only $11 and I can probably send them back if I want to.
 
My new balls. New ones were about .0005” larger in diameter and the old ones varied slightly in diameter, so I decided to put all new ones in. It was a bit of work reshaping the cage but I think I’m good with the way it is now. You can see the bulging of the cage lip where the old balls ere forced out. Here’s a pic of the one messed up ball that compelled me to change them out.

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Check out the factory safety wire on the three backing plate bolts. I guess back in ‘57 that was an acceptable way to install the wire. I just purchased wire and pliers and hope I do it the correct way.


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That’s pretty much how I safety wired the hubcaps (part of the anti skid system) on a Boeing 727. If the wire breaks, you’ll know one or more of the bolts has moved.
 
That’s pretty much how I safety wired the hubcaps (part of the anti skid system) on a Boeing 727. If the wire breaks, you’ll know one or more of the bolts has moved.

Ok so is the wire more of a loss of torque indicator vs a device to prevent fastener rotation?
 
Ok so is the wire more of a loss of torque indicator vs a device to prevent fastener rotation?
Yes, to a degree. It should also keep the bolt from backing out, even if the torque is lost. As an A&P, I was trained to look for broken safety wire. I looked at a lot of 727 hubcaps every day, focusing on that piece of safety wire.
 
Ok thx. I’ll do my best to make look good and functional. If successful I’ll post pics. lol. I’m using .032 wire. Is there a standard number of twist per inch?
 
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