No spark at the plugs

Flyboy5584

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I have no spark from the plugs on an 83sk with the kill switch on. In troubleshooting, I have found I have batt voltage to the coil (input side). I have cleaned the connections, checked the kickstand and the related switch. I checked the coil for resistance and found .5 ohms on the primary and got no reading at all on the secondary. Bad coil and or wires?

Thank you for all the advice in advance.

Jerry
 
Last edited:
To test the coil you need to unhook all the wires. On the primary side, the two small wires, you should get 2.5 ohms.The plug wires are the secondary side. Test with caps should read about 23,000 ohms. With out plug caps around 13,000 ohms.
Use the 200 ohms scale for primary, the 20k scale for the secondary.
If your readings are what you stated then the coil is bad.
One more thing did you check for battery voltage at the TCI box as well as the coil?
Voltage at these places need to be within about .2 of battery voltage.
Leo
 
XSLeo thanks again for replying,

The coil is removed from the bike so was easily able to check resistance with the readings stated. I did not check voltage at the TCI box since the coil was not passing, didn't think it necessary to troubleshoot further. I am out of pocket for a week, but will check voltage at the TCI box asap.

Since I have this problem, I decided to replace everything with Pamcopete ign., new coil and wires, but Mikesx is out of the Advance Rod and will not have any in stock until Dec. Any other place to get everything I need or at least the Advance Rod?

Jerry
 
Then with those readings the coil is bad.
The stock TCI is a good ignition. If yours is working, I might try a new coil.
Mike's has several that will work with the TCI and the Pamco.
You might find a coil on ebay that will work. If it has a 2.5 ohm primary, it will work with your TCI and the Pamco.
Many coils designed to fit the early electronic ignitions used by Harley will work great. These are 2.3 to 3 ohms coils.
Ebay has them for cheap. I had one on my 75 for awhile. I think I paid around $20 shipped.
While your cruising Ebay you can find the advance rod and associated parts.
Maybe some one on here has the parts you need. Maybe post an ad in the parts wanted section.
Leo
 
I Have a 1972 XS650 and I dont have any spark at my plugs . these readings you are suggesting for Flyboy, would they be similar to my "72? This bike hasn't run for at least 5 years> I have repaired the electric motor starter,had the Gas tank cleaned and sealed,replaced fuel petcocks and in line gas filters. I have gas going to the carbs,but I have no spark at either plug. It appears that there is a coil fo each plug..correct? The bike cranks over real well but I have no spark. Where should I start the process of elimination to determine where I'm loosing spark? any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank You
Patrick
 
corbshere, your 72 has a points ignition, not the TCI. On your bike power from the battery flows to the key switch, engine stop switch to the coils. At the coils on the red/white wire should be battery voltage. If not you need to trace back along the red/white wire and find where the voltage is. Most probably a dirty switch. Most keyswitches can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned. The engine stop switch too. If you have power at the coils, check your points. Are they clean and gapped right?
If they are ok then you need to check the coils. The primary side, The two small wires, should read 3.9 ohms + or - 10%, infinity to ground, The mount tabs.
On the secondary side, the spark plug wire. It should read 8,000 ohms = or - 10% from where the plug wire hooks in to the mount tabs. Infinity to the primary side.
If you test from plug cap to plug cap it will be closer to 15,000 ohms.
If a coil reads very different from these specs then it probably is bad.
My guess would be points. If they are dirty or stuck shut or open, you won't get spark.
A question, Do you have a repair manual? If not you should get one. The 70 to 79 bikes all used points. So any year manual from 70 to 79 will tell you the procedure for setting the points.
One thing about the tune up procedures, they should be done in a certain order.
Cam chain tension
Valve adjustment
Points gap
Points timing
biker.net has downloadable manuals. They don't have every year but as I said any year from 70 to 79 will give you what you need to know.
Leo
 
I have replaced the coil, wires and caps (Mikessx green performance coil and yellow wires). I have batt voltage to coil and also past the connector for the TCI box (tells me I have voltage to TCI) , but still no spark at either plug. The primary coil resistance is .5 ohms and the new wires from the coil end to the spark plug cap is also .5 ohms. I am unable to get a reading on the secondary coil (assuming it has one) The troubleshooting logic tree in my manual has me check the resistance at the pickup coils next, but doesn't tell me how. It also states if the resistance checks then the TCI box is faulty.
1. Do I need to check resistance at the pickup coils and if so, how?
2. I am leaning toward the TCI, should it be replaced?
3. If TCI bad, should I replace with a Pamco ignition?

Thanks for all the help,
Jerry
 
All coils have a primary side and a secondary side. The primary side is the side that the power is fed to the coil. The secondary is the side with the spark plug wires.
On you green monster coil the primary side is the terminals you hook the power too. The two small wires. A red/white and an orange.
This side should read 2.5 ohms. Test with no wires hooked on. Infinity to the mounts.
The secondary side gets tested from where the pulg wires hook on. infinity to mounts and primary side. Should be around 20,000 ohms. I think anyway, I don't have the specs handy and the green monster coil I have is on the bike out in the cold.
I think you might want to retest your coil.
To test the pickups, unplug them from the harness. The plug has three wires. They maybe several colr combinations. If you look at the harness connector you will see the three wires are black/white, green/white and red/white. Test from the wire on the pickup side that matches the harness side black/white to the other two wires of the pickup. The blaxck/white is a common connection. The other two wires are the other ends of the windings of the pickups.
Each pair of wires should read the same or very close. 80-81 read 550-850, 82 up read 630-770.
Covered on page 181 of the Clymers book.
Leo
 
Leo,

Thanks again for all your advise.

Well it helps to have a new digital multimeter. That was one problem of mine. The old meter is almost as old as I am and I was unable to get accurate readings from it as you can tell from previous posts.

I retested the coil and wires. The Green Monster is:
Primary 3.3 ohms
Secondary 16,600
Wires with caps 4800

The pickups tested at 754 and 761 ohms well within range. So, I pulled the TCI and tested the 4 diodes and the transistor I read about in other posts. They also tested within range. There was no evidence of any component showing any discoloration, no burn smell, no bad solder joints and no cracked circuit board.

I still have no spark at the plugs!!! *&^%*($#%

The next thought I have would be the kickstand switch. My manual I have does not address this. Does the kickstand switch prevent spark from occurring or does it prevent the starter from turning? Is there a way to test it or remove the switch from having any input to the TCI?

Thanks,
Jerry
 
Does the kickstand switch prevent spark from occurring or does it prevent the starter from turning? Is there a way to test it or remove the switch from having any input to the TCI?

Thanks,
Jerry
grounds the spark, just unplug it, blue/yellow and black wires...
 
you also have a clutch switch on the lever, black/yellow and black, have you cleaned the kill switch? could be passing/showing voltage but no current/amps
 
After reading and re-reading the manual's troubleshooting decision tree, it leads me to a bad TCI box. As previously mentioned, with my limited experience, I found nothing wrong with it, not saying there isn't a problem. The manual does state to replace TCI box, which I am questioning due to what I have seen and found and also the fact that a new TCI is around $575, ouch. Any suggestions or alternatives would be appreciated.

Jerry
 
I have a new right side handle bar switch. I had to change that out when I found the starter switch had failed.

I have pulled in the clutch while trying to start with no difference, if that is what you mean. Other than that, not sure where to go with that bit of info.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
you also have a clutch switch on the lever, black/yellow and black, have you cleaned the kill switch? could be passing/showing voltage but no current/amps
So, if I understand you correctly, you are saying there is also a kill switch in the clutch? I did notice a lead from the clutch perch going into the headlight assembly, I assume you are talking about that. This is one area I haven't concentrated on.

I have read the section on TCI forensics and tested the four diodes and transistor mentioned that give people problems. They appear to have checked correctly.

Thanks again,
Jerry
 
my 81 was doing this. the TCI took a dump but checked good or so i thought. the pamco swap did the trick for me. good luck!
 
my 81 was doing this. the TCI took a dump but checked good or so i thought. the pamco swap did the trick for me. good luck!
I am assuming that going with the Pamco will eliminate the kickstand switch, clutch kill switch and any other extraneous switch that feeds into the TCI box. If this is the case it would at least eliminate those potential electrical problems down the road. If anyone could confirm or deny that last thought, it would be appreciated.

Also, if cleaning the clutch kill switch does not do the trick and I elect to go with the Pamco, anyone know where I kind find the Auto Advance Rod? Mikessx is out of stock and will be until December, which probably means January or February.

Jerry
 
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