Engine Rebuild & Beautification (Shot Blasting)

[bdholsin]

I spent about a half hour today with the clutch basket since it was sitting on the bench, staring at me. It was begging for attention as I've devoted 99% of my bike time to the engine rebuild. Using a file I smoothed out all the fingers where the clutch plates nest. Hopefully this will give me a little smoother clutch action while riding. Not that I had any gripes with the clutch before now...just that since it was sitting there I may as well make it right.

 

[bdholsin]

No significant work on the engine this weekend. Both my boys (ages 5 and 9) wrestled yesterday (and will for the next 8 Saturdays). Just fiddled at the work bench for a few minutes today cutting out gaskets for the side covers. Installed the transmission gears in the top case half and pressed the new clutch pushrod bushing into place. The old one was very very worn and badly in need of replacement. Ordered seals and a cam chain tool kit from mikes a few minutes ago. Should be here by Friday if the last two shipments are an indicator on the speed of the shipping.

 

[Cafe-Dave]

You're doing great. Are you leaving the cases as the blasted finish?

 

[bdholsin]

Yeah Dave. I'm leaving the aluminum naked.

 

[Cruiserd]

Hey guys I wanna know the best way to get a motor cleaned up. I just got it pulled from the frame.

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[bdholsin]

Are you planning to tear it down like I am? If so then blasting with glass beads works. If not then just power washing parts may work. Otherwise get a bunch of rags and start wiping off grease, dirt, oil and anything else that shouldn't be there.

 

[TwoJugs]

Hey guys I wanna know the best way to get a motor cleaned up. I just got it pulled from the frame.

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Minerals spirits and a green scotchbrite pad. Final cleaning with brake cleaner and scothbrite then acetone and rags. Wear gloves to keep the solvents off your hands too.

 

[bdholsin]

I just got back from my counsin's shop and bead blasting the cylinder block. He was kind enough to loan me his cylinder wall honing tool so I chucked it up in my drill and went to town. The second picture below gives an idea of how the cylinder walls are looking now that I was able to give them about a 60 degree cross hatch. They should retain oil considerably better than before. Almost 30 years of the rings scraping up and down on the walls had pretty much erased any cross hatching from the factory.

Waiting now for the seals and cam chain tool I ordered last night.

Heading to my local motorcycle shop soon to see if he can press my crank apart and install the new connecting rods. After that I'm ready to reassemble.

 

[bdholsin]

I finally found a local shop that can press my crankshaft apart and replace the connecting rods. Holy shit, they want $150 for it. Just sent an e-mail to Hugh to see what he'll charge to do it. It may be cheaper for me to send it to Hugh and pay for return shipping...I hope.

 

[Rogue21]

I really like how everything cleaned up, and its getting better results (and seems like its going a lot easier) than the process I am using which is cleaning with rags and degreaser etc. What is everything you have planned for your crankshaft? How did you decided to replace the connecting rods? Are you planning on showing us the rebuild too? You have great info and the pics definitely help too

 

[bdholsin]

Thanks Rogue. I'm very pleased with how everything is looking right now. All of the work and planning is paying off. The engine should look good in the bike when it is complete.

I still don't have a solid plan for the crank at this point. I have a few options though.
1. A local shop quoted me about $150 to get it apart and replace the connecting rods.
2. Another local shop (who referred me to the shop in #1) said they'd do it if I can't find anyone else to do it. They didn't really want to do it.
3. I may get lucky and a friend of my uncle's might be able to do it OR he'll know someone who can.
4. I sent a note to Hugh (Punkskalr) to see what he'd charge to do it. I'm just waiting to see what his response is. This option would require shipping (both ways) and "getting in line" in his workload.

It'll get done. I just don't know exactly how yet.

I'll document the rebuild as I go. By the end of the whole process I should have a nifty "diary" of it all.

Thanks for the kind words. Your encouragement is...well, encouraging.

 

[cra-z1]

I would not screw around with a local shop if they have not worked on that particular crank. I would have Hugh it. Read some of his posts. I had mine done at Falicon. I also had the pins welded even though it is only street. Don't skimp on the crank.

 

[bdholsin]

I would not screw around with a local shop if they have not worked on that particular crank. I would have Hugh it. Read some of his posts. I had mine done at Falicon. I also had the pins welded even though it is only street. Don't skimp on the crank.

I agree, I don't want someone messing up my crank. Fortunately, one of the local shops I contacted is familiar with the experience. However, I feel that Hugh is probably my best choice. I'm just waiting for his response with regard to cost and timing.

 

[bdholsin]

I took a few minutes today and installed the shift forks, transmission gears and starter crossover shaft/gear set. Pics are below.

Right now I'm at a standstill until the crank gets the attention it needs.

 

[cra-z1]

Looks like a nice job on the cylinders

 

[bdholsin]

What's the general consensus on applying anti-sieze to the bottom end of the 8 long bolts that go from the lower case half to the top of the head? I want to be certain that I get the threads engaged as far as possible for when I start torquing down the head (in the distant future).

 

[avenue]

look at http://hughshandbuilt.blogspot.com/ for more detailed info Hugh's services and pricing.

I've only ever heard great things about his work and, from the looks of his projects, it was a very simple decision to give him my business. I'm patiently awaiting the arrival of my new parts.

Not to be too off topic but I have a quick question.

Did I read earlier that you are ditching the starter and related starter shafts? If so, can the one remaining gear shaft in the last photos you posted be removed? The one in the bottom half of the case. From what I can see, it looks like its sole purpose is to transfer the starter gear's power to the crank shaft and does nothing to aid in a kick-only engine.

Thanks for your time. The engine looks fresh.

avenue.

 

[bdholsin]

I've read his page and articles. Cost and timing didn't jump out at me. Additionally, Hugh specifically states that he specializes in re-phasing a crank. I'm just doing a replacement of the connecting rods with no re-phase. I don't know if he's available to do that or not. Just waiting for his response though before I jump the gun. I have plenty of time before the warm weather shows up to ride the beast so I'm going to take my time and enjoy the parts in front of me.

I'm not ditching the starter. You must have me confused with someone else who is rebuilding and looking to lose some dead weight.

If you're deleting the starter then yes, you can delete the starter shaft crossover and the associated gears. Don't forget that you'll need to plug that big nasty hole where the starter pierces into the engine though.

 

[avenue]

That's what I thought. Thanks for the input and, yes, I must have your project mixed up with someone else's. Either way, your engine looks like it's coming along smoothly and quite cleanly.

Keep it up.

and, keep us updated.

 

[bdholsin]

I did consider removing the starter for a few brief moments. However, I'm lazy from time to time and like the convenience of the e-starter. Saves on the leg from time to time.