Engine Rebuild & Beautification (Shot Blasting)

[hooktool]

What you have done is overkill, but you can use it on the next one. Bead blast it-buy him a bag if needed, its the proper media for this. It gives a nice finish, aluminum oxide, glass, black beauty, etc are too aggressive. I bead blast gasket surfaces and all-it doesn't remove material. As pointed out, you just need to clean it well, its been done to millions of motors with no ill effects. Judging by your care in getting ready, you won't have any trouble cleaning it out.

John

 

[AceofSpades]

buying a hundred pounds of new media is better than tearing the engine down and replacing a busted piston because a piece of debris got into a wrist pin and siezed the pin/con rod and over stressed the piston skirt and caused it to crack and lock the motor up.....
ask me how I know!

 

[cra-z1]

I agree with buying the material. Before I started doing my own bead blasting,the shops I brought my stuff to always did a piss poor job. You may tell them what you want but you never know what you were going to get. Like I said I use a med glass bead from Graingers and lower pressures 80-90 Psi. I like to use fresh beads because they do break down. Save the old stuff for other than engine cases. And again clean,clean,clean. Only blast the outside of the cases not the inside. If your bringing to a shop the covers are a good idea, if your doing it yourself you may not need them.

 

[bdholsin]

Hey cra-z1, would this be your recommended blasting media? Click here for the link.

 

[tadd442]

Use a head gasket (old or new) to trace it out on the wood. That's all I did, then cut it out with a jigsaw.

(I should have thought of that...)

Thanks Twins!

 

[cra-z1]

bdholsin that part number also contains aluminum oxide as a mix which you don't want. The grainger number I use is

BALLOTINI Glass Bead Blast Media, 5 Gal
Machining > Finishing Supplies > Pneumatic Blasting Media
Blast Media, Medium Glass, Medium Glass Beads Media Type, Size 53 Lbs, Nominal Dia. Microns Min. 106, Nominal Dia. Microns Max. 212, Nominal Dia. (In.) Min. 0.0083, Nominal Dia. (In.) Max. 0.0041, US Sieve 70-140, For Use With Abrasive Blast Finishing Equipment in Cleaning, Application Deburring, Finishing and Peening, Standards OSHA
Grainger Item # 2W580
Price (ea.) $63.40
Brand BALLOTINI
Mfr. Model # AD (70-140)
Ship Qty. 1
Sell Qty. (Will-Call) 1
Ship Weight (lbs.) 53.0
Availability Ready to Ship
Catalog Page No. 3552
Country of Origin
(Country of Origin is subject to change.) USA
Enlarge Image

 

[bdholsin]

Thanks cra-z1! Much appreciated. Rather than having it shipped I'll most likely call the nearest Grainger store and verify they have it before driving the 45 minutes it'll take to get there.

 

[bdholsin]

Status update: On January 1st I ordered the cam chain, rivet link, piston clips, crank pin and connecting rods from mikesxs.

Yesterday I gave MMM a call at 650central and he was kind enough to break away from his project and take my order. I didn't realize that he was officially closed for the day. He helped me out by getting my order in the system. This order consisted of: piston rings, front cam chain guide and the cam chain tensioner.

Both mikes and 650 were out of the 10 piece seal kit. I'm going to have to wait until the stock is on hand before I can place that order. Fortunately I'm not in dire need of the seals as I'm not to the point of reassembly.

My valve spring compressor is expected to arrive today. I'm hoping UPS gets here soon so I can fiddle around with it. I tried the Sears valve spring compressor but it WILL NOT work. The valve springs don't have enough clearance to the housing to allow the Sears tool to get in there and do it's job.

 

[bdholsin]

My valve compressor tool (from mikesxs) arrived last night. I took a few minutes before the Sugar Bowl (go Blue!!) to remove the valves. Here they are. A little dirty. I used a brass brush to remove some of the deposits. I will be lapping them as soon as I get the head bead blasted. This is going to be fun.

Something about tearing this engine down and rebuilding it really gives me a sense of ownership of my bike. I'm really enjoying myself as I go through this rebuild.

 

[bdholsin]

Update today: Went to my cousin's shop today and utilized his media blaster. Worked on the head and head cover for about 45 minutes. The result is below. I'm pleased with the look so far. Next will be the cylinder block then the case halves.

After the wife leaves for work tomorrow I'll put the head and cover in the dishwasher...uh, I mean parts washer.

After that it'll be some valve lapping.

 

[Rogue21]

Those heads cleaned up nicely! Im guessing your plan is to just reuse your valves (or else why would you clean then?!) Did you do anything to clean out your intake/exhaust ports? I cleaned up my valves using a wire wheel on a bench grinder and it worked nicely, but was unsure what to do about those ports? By the way, how well did that valve compressor from Mikes work? I rented one from an auto parts store but it took some slightly aggressive persuasion for it to work.

 

[bdholsin]

Yep, I'm reusing my valves. I can't think of a reason to replace them since they appear to be in good order.

I didn't really do anything to the intake or exhaust ports...at least I haven't yet. I may have to look at them to see if there is carbon deposits.

The valve compressor worked absolutely perfectly. No issues what-so-ever with the one from mikes. I'm very pleased with how easily it worked.

 

[bdholsin]

I pulled the rocker arms today. I was worried (and rightfully so) that there may have been contamination in the oil passages from the bead blasting. One note for those who are going to pull the rocker arms...you will need a grade 8 M6 bolt to do it. The first time I tried it I was using a lower grade bolt and the threads deformed.

The head is being washed right now and any remnants of glass beads will be gone. A once over with compressed air should bring everything to where I want it.

 

[bdholsin]

I'm having success with making a little bit of progress every day. Today I spent about 2 hours at my cousin's shop with the bead blaster and cleaned the case halves. They're naked now and I like how they look. I can see now that they will be hard to keep clean.

A little compressed air and I'll be ready to put the shift forks and transmission gears back in.

My order arrived today from 650central. Funny thing...I ordered the piston rings, cam chain tensioner and cam chain guide from MMM after I made my order to mikes and the mikes order still has not arrived. Oh well. Now I'm at the hurry up and wait phase.

 

[avenue]

thanks for all of the updates. I'm hurried and waiting on parts for my rebuild, too.
can we see some photos of the valve seat area? maybe a before and after, if you have them?
looks good, keep it up.

avenue.

 

[bdholsin]

avenue - Would you like to see all four seats or will one of the exhaust seats be alright? I don't have the before pics (jeez, what was I thinking?). I reassembled the head last night but if you really need to see all four I can make that happen.

 

[avenue]

thanks, a lot. This helps. I'm cleaning my engine right now and was wondering what others' are looking like post-clean.

cheers,
avenue.

 

[bdholsin]

The picture doesn't show it very well but when I lapped the valves there was a very clear and clean valve seat surface. After lapping I cleaned them with a clean rag and it caused the mating surfaces to become a little bit dingy. Also, when I applied oil to the valve stem for reassembly it made it look dirtier as well. Those valves and seats are ready for action.

 

[Rogue21]

Valve seat looks great! Rough estimate of time it took you to do all four?

 

[bdholsin]

Rogue - For just the valve lapping alone...20 minutes, tops (for all four). Each valve only took a couple minutes to lap and then a little cleanup.