Stella - 1977D survivor, back on the road.

Yes, that crack in the rotor winding is not good. That rotor appears to have had a long and hard life. It may be working normally when the engine is cold, but as the engine heats up, all or part of the rotor winding may become open or shorted out.
Those slip rings could use a little clean up with some fine emery paper.
You live near Mailman, don't you? I suggest you borrow the alternator rotor from his bike, install on your bike, and then do a test run. You do need the proper rotor removal tool, and a manual impact tool to remove the 2 stator screws.
 
I have a rotor puller and JIS bits if you need them
 
retiredgentleman said:
Yes, that crack in the rotor winding is not good. That rotor appears to have had a long and hard life...
Click to expand...

Agreed. The insulation colors of your rotor and stator are dark, indicating a history of overheating. GggGary notes rotor insulation color in these:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/expanded-charging-system-guide-in-progress.10561/page-10#post-430132
http://www.xs650.com/threads/81-xs650-not-charging-im-stumped.43167/#post-430710

Here's a couple of stators with unburned insulation colors.
BrushBlocks-Inside.jpg
 
My research shows me that Custom Rewind is the place to get my rotor and stator done. But I also see he's been slowing down due to health. Anyone have recent info? I'll try giving him a call.

Other than Custom, any other ideas? Another used rotor and stator maybe? @gggGary?
 
I had a nice chat with Kirk at Custom Rewind. Seems like they might be the way to go.

1 - PMA, over $200+, what to do about the extra power?

2 - Used OEM parts, somewhere between $100-200, still 40yo parts, how long will it last?

3 - Custom Rewind rewound OEM parts, ~$215(stator&rotor) + shipping my old parts to them, OEM style as-needed charging, higher than OEM quality winding.

Would y'all concur?
 
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Yeah - I'd say so. Although, I have no experience with these folks - but it just seems to me that after all the pain you've been through - you have earned the right to get a top notch replacement.
 
I hadn't heard of him before, but I looked him up and he sure gets rave reviews. Seems a logical choice. Good luck!
 
Go for the rewind Daniel, PMA.....hmmmm, the only PIA is brushes change every 10,000 miles, well that's when I last changed mine from a new set I put in when I did my build....rotor / stator just keeps plugging away. There was still life in the old ones too

Mick
 
Thanks gents.

Mick, I don't quite follow. You're running a rewound OEM?

Yeah, PMA isn't really on my list of preferred options. I'm either going for used or rewound.
 
Negative, "still life in the old ones" was referring to the brushes, I'd go for the rewind, but hey, you know your shit when it comes to electrics....it's just my opinion, I really like keeping it original and old school, easy to fault find too. I've burnt out a rotor, replaced it from a donor bike at the shop, this was when I first purchased my bike and before the rebuild

Mick
 
Ah, ok. Thanks Mick.

Just got a message from Custom Rewind's owner, Gary. They've got the parts ready on the shelf and can ship on Monday! Seems to me that he'll let me receive the new ones, do the swap in a day, and send him my old ones afterwards. Sweet! I was afraid I might be looking at another couple weeks of down time.
 
Please, as Fred so aptly put it, don't drink the PMA Kool-aid. I think your hot location is mostly responsible for your burnt components. Local used replacements probably wouldn't be in much better shape. Gary's North-Wet parts would be a better option. But, the rebuilds you're considering are also good, probably the best. I know, it's a couple hundred dollars but compare that to new bike costs. Any repair on one of them would probably be $500 easy.

Don't give up the "search" or watch for old 650 parts bikes in your area. You never know when one may pop up and you never know how good or bad it may end up being. The last time I was approached "out of the blue" was at the supermarket. This old guy cart pusher/collector came up and said he had a bike like that. I failed to pursue it further, my mistake. I never saw him again. Obviously he was a new hire and a bum that didn't last long. No offense, but most of us work at supermarkets pushing carts when we're young, right? We don't do it when we're near 60, right? I don't know, maybe I'm wrong - but I don't think so.
 
Thanks gents.

Could be the climate, could be an inattentive PO. There is evidence of a pretty good battery spill, so it's probable batteries weren't always kept in good shape. Back to your hunch, this climate kills lead-acid batteries. It's tough to keep the water levels up. Also, who knows how long this rotor has been putting out 13.8, tops. As we know, a bad rotor works harder, getting hotter, working less effectively, hence working longer, etc, etc.

No matter, Stella's getting a new-to-her OEM alternator. Used from Gary or rewound from Custom.

AZman, thanks, but I'm going to use Mailman's puller, he being a whole lot closer.
 
:rock:Daniel: by the time you get through with Stella, she is going to be one sweet - and darned reliable - ride.....
 
A tip on the puller - many times you tighten them up and the rotor pops right off, but not always. Sometimes it take a couple raps on the end of the puller bolt with a BFH. Well, if it comes to that, use a dead blow hammer. They work great for this. If you don't have one, the HF ones are some of the best ones out there, and cheap. A 1.5 to 2 lb. one is good.
 
+1 - in fact, I would also give the hub a good squirt with some penetrating oil the night before you're going pull it.
Then when you go to pull the rotor, tighten the tool so that it is fairly snug and then give it a little rap. Often the oil and a bit of shock will pop the thing off without having to really crank on the puller.
 
Thanks, Pete. As my daily ride, reliable is paramount. Even with the Gremlins, I'm still having fun. Every little problem is an opportunity to learn and with success, to look back upon with pride. Even something as small as locking my steering stem, which I now do all the time.

Good tips on the puller, thank you.
 

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