delete this

yikes.I got a new/used functional ignition switch off ebay.I tried fixing the old one. here aew pictures of my screw up.As is known by others the ignition switch wires are inside a connector inside the headlight.blue red, red/white, and brown. It is hard to tell,no lighting in there much even with a flashlight.I saw all of the 6 wires coming from a loom externally 4 of which had been cut and rewired them with connectors to the new right handlebar switch.However the wires from that handlebar switch did not have a red,but a red/white which is live when the switch is on. One picture shows my expert reconnect outside the headlight.One shows the sappropriate colored wires from the ignition wires entering the back of the headlight into the inside connector.My wires from the new switch of course have nothing to connect to because i have them all connected over by the right handlebar switch.Before I started messing this up at first i could turn the old switch and the rear tailight would come on and the brakelight stayed on.Then the ignition switch was in the loop.Now essentially I have completely bypassed the ignition switch,correct? So now I need to undo some of my new connections and splice the ignition switch wires into the wires i so ingeniously connected it seems.I still at am a loss why there is no redwire from the handlebar switch.To me the rest of the harness looks like it was never touched.All the wrapping and dust attest to that.I must get an ignition switch wired in. Am I right on the splice statement.other than the handlebar switch not having a red wire all the rest is ok. jeesh.When can i get back to mechanical things.
 

Attachments

  • 20170701_083838.jpg
    20170701_083838.jpg
    130.7 KB · Views: 137
  • 20170701_083851.jpg
    20170701_083851.jpg
    122.2 KB · Views: 147
  • 20170701_083926.jpg
    20170701_083926.jpg
    98.2 KB · Views: 146
You're going to need to start studying some wiring diagrams. I know you say you don't understand them but you're going to have to learn. You can't just go around connecting random wires to one another. No wonder you destroy wiring harnesses, lol.

A quick look at a wiring diagram will show that your ignition switch has 3 wires, a red, a brown, and a blue/yellow. They fit into a 3 prong connector block. There should be a matching connector in the headlight bucket with the same color wires running into it. Plug the 2 together and bang, boom you're done. If you or someone else has cut the connector blocks off then you're going to have to start tracing wires back to their source.
 
5twins said:
You're going to need to start studying some wiring diagrams. I know you say you don't understand them but you're going to have to learn. You can't just go around connecting random wires to one another. No wonder you destroy wiring harnesses, lol.

A quick look at a wiring diagram will show that your ignition switch has 3 wires, a red, a brown, and a blue/yellow. They fit into a 3 prong connector block. There should be a matching connector in the headlight bucket with the same color wires running into it. Plug the 2 together and bang, boom you're done. If you or someone else has cut the connector blocks off then you're going to have to start tracing wires back to their source.
Click to expand...
I am starting to understand them.Correct.I also found the colors,the ones you wrote,not the ones i wrote.It should be very simple to connect switch with the key part of the ignition switch to the same color wires in the inside the headlight part of the ignition switch.After the part of the inside switch exits the connector it exits inside a big loom.the red should make its way to the 20 amp fuse.(I have no fuse block,it was taken out). Also the red from the ignition goes to the rectifier.It seems these bikes have a regulator and rectifier.shows 3 whites a red and a black.On gauges the lower the number the bigger the wire? Looks like all these wires are mostly 16 or 18 gauge.The only remaining wire from the ign switch is the blue yellow.It goes to a light checker.What the heck is that and where is it located.is it needed to complete the ignition circuit? Am I right so far. The regulator shows only 3 wires dark green,brown,and black.

So,now I know the ignition switch is much simpler as long as the aftend of the red wire makes its way downline to the rectifier,which most likely it does.Thanks for your input.
 
You'll get there Ron - you're a smart guy (you bought an XS650) and you do not quit (you're a Texan).

Just remember that every device needs at least a positive and a negative (ground) connection. The ground connection may be a wire but on vehicles, it is often just the mounting bolts of the device to the frame or engine of the bike (or car). If any of those connections is not clean and secure - the device will not work properly. There are obviously lots of other nuances, but if you can keep that straight, you've made progress.

Cheers,

Pete
 
actually it is starting to make sense.I have read a 100 times a good ground is paramount.There are some bikes that have one main ground wire running from front to back and everything is spliced into it.Then if one part fails multiple parts fail.Whereas if there are multiple grounds then hopefully only one or a select group of the electrics fail,making it much easier to trace a short or poor grounding.I would think more inline fuses might help just one area fail instead of multiple but then again thats 2 more ends that might not be well connected. I will eventually have to install a fuse block.I will get a 4 fuse or more spadetype when the time comes.Thank you peter.
 
one posible solution to my problems I just discovered.I was told and i agreed per my schematic that the ignition switch had red brown and blue yellow.Yet i had the ignition switch right in my hand and it has red brown and blue.I was on the wrong schematic.red,br,blue only on one schematic that is for early issue xs 650 E.I was looking at late xs650 E.hmm.Now perhaps things and routes will start matching as they should.dang.I learned to read at age 19 so by now I should be able to easily do this.
 
the engine number seems to start with 6503.Hard to find.Bottom of left front lower cylinder area. No number in the clymers matches unless it was in the series that started with 6501.nevertheless,i found the right schematic.
 
There is no one "right" schematic when you're mixing parts. You bought a Standard ignition switch, that's why it has a blue wire. The Special switch has a blue/yellow wire instead. The Standard runs that blue wire directly back to the tail light. The Special runs the blue/yellow to the light checker. From there, a blue wire runs to the tail light. You'll need to connect the ignition switch blue to the harness blue/yellow.
 
Good save 5twins!!!! Yeah, routing and function should be checked also, not just the color of the wires. Get a multi meter, learn to use it to check component (switch) functions and you've given yourself one hell of an education.

Scott
 
5twins said:
There is no one "right" schematic when you're mixing parts. You bought a Standard ignition switch, that's why it has a blue wire. The Special switch has a blue/yellow wire instead. The Standard runs that blue wire directly back to the tail light. The Special runs the blue/yellow to the light checker. From there, a blue wire runs to the tail light. You'll need to connect the ignition switch blue to the harness blue/yellow.
Click to expand...
yeah well,one problem with your observation.The old switch that was no good had a red blue and brown.The replacement has a red blue and brown.I do realize only one schematic of all the ones in the clymer manual has a red blue and brwn.All the rest have the blue yellow.So I intend replacing with what I found.No right schematic-ok I get that.But one tends to go with one that has the wires the same way as they are found on the bike.
 
i have enought things moved away to see the serial number 2f0 110 556. 77-78 650 se. The ignition switch inside the headlight is red blue brown.the serial numbers say it should be red, brown ,blue yellow.The wiring harness is original.It has a standard switch in a later model xs650 e with engine # after 2fo-006501. it is a special also because of the mag wheels and front and rear disc brakes.So a special with a standard switch.But the switch is original.A factory assembly must be friday assembly day . Because it started with a standard switch I figured i must stick with that.i am working next 3 nights. Next week I will dive in.5 twins has the way to go from standard switch to involving the light checker.I cant imagine what that is or where it is.Its different from reserve lighting unit? Anyhow, sorry to be a pain.
 
Hey Ron Barry here I guest I am going to be the fly in the ointment. The bike looks like it will need a whole lot of work ( and money ). I would push it out back. And start looking for a better bike. Take the 2k and look for a bike around 1,500 to 1,800 hundred. One that has a title and both keys. Find one that kicks over. NO BOBBERS,TRACKER, CHOPPERS ECT. One that is stock and has all the important parts there. You want to spend your time riding. Not trying to fix things that cant be fixed. I want you to have a life time as a xs owner. I hope this gets you started on the right foot. GOOD LOCK Barry
 
barr toy said:
Hey Ron Barry here I guest I am going to be the fly in the ointment. The bike looks like it will need a whole lot of work ( and money ). I would push it out back. And start looking for a better bike. Take the 2k and look for a bike around 1,500 to 1,800 hundred. One that has a title and both keys. Find one that kicks over. NO BOBBERS,TRACKER, CHOPPERS ECT. One that is stock and has all the important parts there. You want to spend your time riding. Not trying to fix things that cant be fixed. I want you to have a life time as a xs owner. I hope this gets you started on the right foot. GOOD LOCK Barry
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input.It does need a whole lot of work.I now have over $900 in it.I have found several ready to ride good looking bikes for $2,000. many of the parts I have bought were to fix the things that are ruined by sitting and some are useable on other year models.This one has no title,but a bill of sale.It does have keys to the ignition and the gastank.That key seems to be the same for either.But the ignition was nonfunctional.The blue wire soldered to the back of the keyed switch was mashed flat,kinked,almost cut in two.plus even after completely disassembling the old switch and cleaning it it still would not move freely.This motor is not seized.It does kick over.Else it would have already been deemed a parts bike.It still may become one.I have the finances to buy a bike outright.Plus I have a daily rider 95 750 magna that is immaculate,needs nothing. I have loved the xs650 since the first time i saw one back in 1972.I was using this one as a learning tool. I probably will own more than one if i get this one going.Poor man's bonneville to me.I suspect people are getting tired of me. I am going to keep on keeping on for a while longer.

I would never want a bobber or hacked up bike either.A ruined bike in my opinion. If I found one that ran good it would make a good parts bike for a resto mod.
 
5twins said:
There is no one "right" schematic when you're mixing parts. You bought a Standard ignition switch, that's why it has a blue wire. The Special switch has a blue/yellow wire instead. The Standard runs that blue wire directly back to the tail light. The Special runs the blue/yellow to the light checker. From there, a blue wire runs to the tail light. You'll need to connect the ignition switch blue to the harness blue/yellow.
Click to expand...
thanks.The bike was made with a standard switch.Do not know why.I will do the redo of the wires as you said.
 
I have waited for the carbs for several days.I got a call from the guy.He said he had shipped them and they came back to him.Reason unknown.He said he was going to resend them today.I am getting a little curious.I already paid,I hope i am not being stiffed.I took the only sparkplug out today.The one on the left cylinder was missing.I wonder how much crud might have fallen in that hole the last 20 years.With one plug in kicking the bike it had good push back,compression sounds.With the remaining plug out it kicked over with little resistance.i suppose its supposed to be that way if no plugs are in.I kicked it 20 times to get oil into the upper motor. A guy named barry suggested i get another bike,push this one out into the back yard. I am not ready to do that.I havent got to the real work yet.
 
Ron: I read Barry's post - and I am with you.

Yes, there may be other..."better" bikes out there but just imagine the smile on your face when you start that old gal for the first time in 20-odd years and then picture the goofy grin on that first ride.

I bought a hay and cow sh!t encrusted mess with no functional electrical system in Feb. 2016 and after a fair bit of work, have now put nearly 2500 relatively trouble-feee mile on her.

Believe me, it is worth it.

Pete
 
MaxPete said:
Ron: I read Barry's post - and I am with you.

Yes, there may be other..."better" bikes out there but just imagine the smile on your face when you start that old gal for the first time in 20-odd years and then picture the goofy grin on that first ride.

I bought a hay and cow sh!t encrusted mess with no functional electrical system in Feb. 2016 and after a fair bit of work, have now put nearly 2500 relatively trouble-feee mile on her.

Believe me, it is worth it.

Pete
Click to expand...
I know all about that goofy grin.I once bought a 67 chevy pickup with a rod sticking through the block.My dad had a 69 impala with 327 auto he gave me,the motor was good,needed rings.I pulled it,overhauled it,put it and 350 turbo in the truck.I had to get the driveshaft cut and a new carrier bearing installed but afterthat i had a classic truck.Before I did that 2 guys asked why are you messing with that old truck, there isnt a thing right about it.Once I got the classic truck running and tooling around the neighborhood their tune changed.Same with the old gs 1000.I replaced the tires,speedo cable,front wheel speedo drive unit,head gasket,basecover gasket,all internal gaskets and orings,had the seat recovered,changed from the L type handlebars to normal ones.The bike went from being worth $100 to $1500.The same with this old girl.I have a short list of favorite bikes.I have owned several.The r90s,old kz1000,4 cylinder goldwing,vmax,norton,and the yamaha 650. Actually the yamaha will suffice for the norton,bonneville,and the yamaha on that list.I have found beaucoup bikes to use parts off of.Guys here have them.Distributors have them.NEW parts.Very rare these days.And most of the parts are cheap.What's not to like.because some people have said give up it makes me more determined.I look forward to the grin.Thanks brother for the response.
 
where is the freaking light checker? I see some very important wires going to it, like the yellow with blue stripe, but where is the checker and what is it for? I understand why there is a reserve lighting unit,just for extra safety sake in regard to lights, but what is the light checker.I have googled and searched.
 
Back
Top