Buzzy's revival: '82 Heritage Special

[5twins]

Unfortunately, just draining the fork oil doesn't clean out the inside of the lowers very well. It's not like changing engine oil that's real hot and has been churned all around by the gears so much of the sludge build-up is broken up and cleaned out. Fork oil doesn't get hot nor does it get churned around much. The sludge remains just sitting in the bottom of the fork leg. I made up a "special tool" for cleaning the insides of the legs out. It's nothing more than a length of 1/4" rod with a small loop bent in one end that I can thread a rag through .....

I dip the rag in solvent, insert it into the lower, and use it like a ram rod to swab it out .....

 

[RustiePyles]

Also available from yamahaxs650.com
LINK

Dang way cheaper too!

 

[Boog]

@5twins I can see doing that off the bike as much easier, is there a problem if I do it on the bike?
Also, there are many solvents out there, is there a relatively safe one you'd recommend for home use?

 

[RustiePyles]

@5twins I can see doing that off the bike as much easier, is there a problem if I do it on the bike?
Also, there are many solvents out there, is there a relatively safe one you'd recommend for home use?

Stay away from simple green, it'll turn aluminum grayish black, It's near impossible to get shinny again. Kerosene works great and you can get it at most rural gas stations for $4 a gallon.

 

[Raymond]

Might be wrong here - not sure how the Yamaha oil level is spec'd, but on many bikes the oil level is specified for the the fork compressed and with the spring removed. You could manage that with Jim's eagerly anticipated method of raising the front of the bike but my method won't apply unless you find a willing assistant prepared to adopt the position for long enough.

Wheel out, fork caps removed, springs removed, oil drained, fork lifted to fullest extent and probably propped on a box or WHY.

You could probably use 5T's cleaning method at this point? Then either add a measured amount of oil in each leg or employ some method to measure the oil level. There is the syringe method or the cheapskate way is add oil little by little and check distance from the top of the leg using a suitable dipstick.

This is where you can play with the variables of oil grade and air gap.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Dang way cheaper too!

That depends upon whether or not you are a PRIME member.

 

[jetmechmarty]

not sure how the Yamaha oil level is spec'd

The spec is is by volume, which makes it easy. I believe @5twins has a volume spec of his own that he'll share, I'm sure.

on many bikes the oil level is specified for the the fork compressed and with the spring removed.

That's how I do it. I leave air space at the top in millimeters.

 

[RustiePyles]

Might be wrong here - not sure how the Yamaha oil level is spec'd, but on many bikes the oil level is specified for the the fork compressed and with the spring removed. You could manage that with Jim's eagerly anticipated method of raising the front of the bike but my method won't apply unless you find a willing assistant prepared to adopt the position for long enough.

Wheel out, fork caps removed, springs removed, oil drained, fork lifted to fullest extent and probably propped on a box or WHY.

You could probably use 5T's cleaning method at this point? Then either add a measured amount of oil in each leg or employ some method to measure the oil level. There is the syringe method or the cheapskate way is add oil little by little and check distance from the top of the leg using a suitable dipstick.

This is where you can play with the variables of oil grade and air gap.

Yamaha's spec is for volume: Front fork oil capacity: 164 - 172 cc (5.54 - 5.82 oz) each side

 

[jetmechmarty]

or

Decisions, decisions.

 

[Adamc]

View attachment 200630
or
View attachment 200631
Decisions, decisions.

Gosh that set of implements reminds me of a painful gentleman sausage operation! Never again..

 

[jetmechmarty]

Gosh that set of implements reminds me of a painful gentleman sausage operation! Never again..

 

[Jim]

....with Jim's eagerly anticipated method of raising the front of the bike

...and here we are. A simple 2X4 and a bottle or scissor jack. You could even get away with wood blocks instead of the jack(s) if you had someone momentarily sit and raise the front wheel.

A 2X4 cut to length and holes drilled to settle it into the engine.

A notch at the rear to settle it on the center stand.

And some method of securing a jack in the front. Here's 2 screws to secure the scissor jack. There's also a depression drilled in it for a bottle jack.

It just hangs on the wall out of the way when not in use and it's dead simple to make. I can do a writeup detailing the dimensions if there's any interest?

 

[jetmechmarty]

I can do a writeup detailing the dimensions if there's any interest?

You have to ask?
(I will admit that I can figure it out.)

 

[RustiePyles]

I can do a writeup detailing the dimensions if there's any interest?

I think there is.

 

[Jim]

Ok, I'll put something up in the next day or two. This was just a prototype anyway that just happened to work good right out the gate. I always meant to make a more versatile version. Maybe I'll do that.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Ok, I'll put something up in the next day or two. This was just a prototype anyway that just happened to work good right out the gate. I always meant to make a more versatile version. Maybe I'll do that.

It looks like a nice compliment to the flat panel scissor jack.

 

[Jan_P]

Front Wheel of the ground
I press down on the back when bike is on center stand
then wedge in a plank or 2x4 from ground up in between there
Between the frame tubes and on or behind the engine mount don't remember exactly
The weight landing on the plank gives a fairly good stability. But must be little careful.

 

[Jim]

then wedge in a plank or 2x4 from ground up in between there
Between the frame tubes and on or behind the engine mount don't remember exactly
The weight landing on the plank gives a fairly good stability. But must be little careful.

Don't think I'd trust that for yanking and twisting on the forks and such.

 

[Jan_P]

Don't think I'd trust that for yanking and twisting on the forks and such.

That is of course right .. more for taking off the wheel and take off the fork tubes .and so.
The fault finding being done turning and braking with the wheel on the ground.
I actually sits rather good there .. With the right length ... if i remember correctly I have i slanting / leaning little backwards not the
other way.
It is 3 point support a triangle and as such Mechanically stable. but cant kick it to much
But we are talking methods that I understand Aero plane enthusiast seldom uses As the famous words / proverbial in construction
" As long as it cracks it lasts " --- not sure the translation came out right ..

 

[Boog]

Thanks again guys, every bit of information is helpful to me.

My Clymer just arrived today so I have it for guidance as well now.