Buzzy's revival: '82 Heritage Special

[650Skull]

This will do everything from rustproofing to cleaning up chrome, lubricates, wet start, water disperse, and seals electrics and wiring................Once the bike has been washed it will act as a polisher on the paint and keep it looking like new.

I use a lanolin product over her in Oz, (live on the beach), that you can't get over in the Americas. This is the closet stuff i have found to the Oz product that is available in the States/Canada

https://www.fluid-film.com/

https://fluidfilm.co.nz/

https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/

 

[Raymond]

Here's a hint. This is the only "special tool" you need to make.

View attachment 200610

Clearly, Jim's is the hi-tech approach. My lo-tech way of getting the front end off the ground is to put the bike on the centre-stand and ask my willing assistant to use her lithe form to push the rear wheel down. Crouch - or at my age, sit on a low stool - at the front of the bike, grasp wheel by the ends of spindle and turn lock to lock. Given the diagnosis suggested above, you will feel notchiness.

 

[Boog]

Off is down, it’s a vacuum petcock. You only need to turn it to pri at start up and back to the middle. Res only if your running out of fuel.

Rusty, I forgot to turn the petcock to Pri this morning and the bike did not die on my way to work. The handle is pointing down on the Petcock, is this the OFF position?
I'm wondering if the petcock is not doing its job now...

 

[RustiePyles]

Rusty, I forgot to turn the petcock to Pri this morning and the bike did not die on my way to work. The handle is pointing down on the Petcock, is this the OFF position?
I'm wondering if the petcock is not doing its job now...

Down is the correct position for riding and parking. The petcock turns itself on and off via vacuum from the carbs/intake. PRI (prime) and RES (reserve) bypass this vacuum function allowing it to free flow regardless of whether or not the bike is running. If you ride every day you may not need to turn it to prime for start up. I find I only need to prime the carbs if it sits for more than 3-4 days.

 

[Boog]

Down is the correct position for riding and parking. The petcock turns itself on and off via vacuum from the carbs/intake. PRI (prime) and RES (reserve) bypass this vacuum function allowing it to free flow regardless of whether or not the bike is running. If you ride every day you may not need to turn it to prime for start up. I find I only need to prime the carbs if it sits for more than 3-4 days.

Thank you much for the added explanation brother. I feel better for it.

 

[RustiePyles]

@Boog think of like this, there only two scenarios where the petcock should be in any position but down on that bike. 1. Your running out of gas= switch it to res (handle pointing forward) 2. Bike has been sitting long enough for the carbs to dry up= PRI (handle pointing aft until bike starts then back to down) I always kinda treat PRI like I do the choke, If I need to turn on the choke I also put the petcock in the PRI position. In reality they will start just fine without using the prime function but it will save you a few cranks on the starter on a cold bike, and lets face it these starter clutches need all the preservation we can afford them.

 

[jetmechmarty]

I have always used the kick starter when the engine is cold. (1st start of the day) I use the electric foot for restarts. The electric starter is an afterthought on this bike.

 

[motormike]

If the bike is going to be a keeper... just toss the steering ball bearings and toss in tapered... well worth the hassle. Upgrade fork sprigs ...Halgon has a great replaced shock that's shield like stock..paint it black.

 

[Adamc]

This is a Google mandated rule. if we don't follow their mandate they can shut the site down

From the clubhouse, post by Travis

Welcome to the Clubhouse

The Clubhouse forum is viewable by members only. You need to be logged in.

What's the point?

Tapatalk and Google don't like sites with "publicly viewable Adult or other Objectionable content". Since many people use the forum with tapatalk, and we display google ads, we needed to move all of the non-family friendly content into a new forum that is only viewable to logged in members. This also means no adult content in photo albums.

Thanks Skull.
I already got all that from Jim and its noted; as posted earlier.
I deleted the post pronto and apologised.
Enough said.

 

[RustiePyles]

If the bike is going to be a keeper... just toss the steering ball bearings and toss in tapered... well worth the hassle. Upgrade fork sprigs.

As stated tapered bearings make a huge difference, its an easy enough job that you should be able to do at the MWR garage (which one are you going to Qauntico?) Better springs do make a difference but I wouldn't get to hung up on those right away. I'd focus on fork seals, fork oil, and neck bearings. I run 15w fork oil, I'm 210lb and that seems like a good place for my weight and riding style.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Better springs do make a difference

I run 15w fork oil, I'm 210lb and that seems like a good place for my weight and riding style.

Make sure you understand what these things do before you make changes. One thing you should do is replace the fork oil while the forks are off. This is usually neglected by the PO and should be done at about every 3rd engine oil change. Pick a brand of fork oil and stay with it, as viscosity is variable by brand. Oil viscosity affects high speed dampening, or how fast the forks move when you hit a big bump.

 

[5twins]

Both the "ON' and "RES" positions are vacuum powered. Only the "PRI" (prime) position flows directly and all the time, engine running or not. Something you should be aware of is the prime position is fed from the reserve stand pipe in the tank. That means if you forget and leave it on prime, if you run out of gas, you'll really be out, all out, lol.

 

[RustiePyles]

Make sure you understand what these things do before you make changes. One thing you should do is replace the fork oil while the forks are off. This is usually neglected by the PO and should be done at about every 3rd engine oil change. Pick a brand of fork oil and stay with it, as viscosity is variable by brand. Oil viscosity affects high speed dampening, or how fast the forks move when you hit a big bump.

Yep, well said Marty. I use Belray, used to mix 10w & 15w 50/50 but found it was a little fast for the valving in my forks so I stepped up to straight 15w at my last fork rebuild. Also worth noting that there are two methods of measuring fork oil. Volume & height, Volume= measuring out oz's (ml) of fork oil and filling each fork. Height= overfilling each fork and sucking out the excess using a fork oil height syringe. I prefer the latter, its more accurate. Unequal headspace in the forks will cause varying pressure preload (not to be confused with spring preload which is adjustable on your bike) which will cause each fork to preform different. I use a top clamp off a wrecked bike as a fork holder for rebuilding, I modified it to clamp in my vise and in turn hold a 35mm fork tube safely and securely for maintenance.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Yep, well said Marty. I use Belray, used to mix 10w & 15w 50/50 but found it was a little fast for the valving in my forks so I stepped up to straight 15w at my last fork rebuild. Also worth noting that there are two methods of measuring fork oil. Volume & height, Volume= measuring out oz's (ml) of fork oil and filling each fork. Height= overfilling each fork and sucking out the excess using a fork oil height syringe. I prefer the latter, its more accurate. Unequal headspace in the forks will cause varying pressure preload (not to be confused with spring preload which is adjustable on your bike) which will cause each fork to preform different. I use a top clamp off a wrecked bike as a fork holder for rebuilding, I modified it to clamp in my vise and in turn hold a 35mm fork tube safely and securely for maintenance.

The volume of air space in the fork above the oil affects compression in the last 25% (or so) of travel. Too much space (too little oil) makes for bouncy forks. Too much oil will blow out the fork seal. This is the only adjustment I have done to my XS650 forks that deviate from the FSM. I've increased the fork oil to reduce dive in hard braking. It works the charm. There's a tuning range we can discuss later. @5twins has his oil set high and just a hair less than mine.

As an aside, my Eleven Special forks are completely altered. They are awesome on Georgia's smooth and twisted mountain roads. They're awful on Mississippi's bumpy and broken pavement. The factory set-up is usually a very good compromise.

 

[Boog]

As stated tapered bearings make a huge difference, its an easy enough job that you should be able to do at the MWR garage (which one are you going to Qauntico?) Better springs do make a difference but I wouldn't get to hung up on those right away. I'd focus on fork seals, fork oil, and neck bearings. I run 15w fork oil, I'm 210lb and that seems like a good place for my weight and riding style.

Yep, well said Marty. I use Belray, used to mix 10w & 15w 50/50 but found it was a little fast for the valving in my forks so I stepped up to straight 15w at my last fork rebuild. Also worth noting that there are two methods of measuring fork oil. Volume & height, Volume= measuring out oz's (ml) of fork oil and filling each fork. Height= overfilling each fork and sucking out the excess using a fork oil height syringe. I prefer the latter, its more accurate. Unequal headspace in the forks will cause varying pressure preload (not to be confused with spring preload which is adjustable on your bike) which will cause each fork to preform different. I use a top clamp off a wrecked bike as a fork holder for rebuilding, I modified it to clamp in my vise and in turn hold a 35mm fork tube safely and securely for maintenance.

Thanks for the information. I am not sure which MWR I will go to or if I will do it at home on the patio. I think to begin with I will simple change the fork oil and seal. The bearing should be next on the list and I will think about the springs as I become more accustomed to the bike. Using the syringe sounds like the way I will go for filling the tubes. I should be able to get them very close to the same this way.

 

[Boog]

Make sure you understand what these things do before you make changes. One thing you should do is replace the fork oil while the forks are off. This is usually neglected by the PO and should be done at about every 3rd engine oil change. Pick a brand of fork oil and stay with it, as viscosity is variable by brand. Oil viscosity affects high speed dampening, or how fast the forks move when you hit a big bump.

I planned to change the fork oil on the bike. I am not yet ready to dismount the forks. Is there any issue with this plan I should be aware of?

 

[jetmechmarty]

I planned to change the fork oil on the bike. I am not yet ready to dismount the forks. Is there any issue with this plan I should be aware of?

No issue, as the forks are equipped with drains. The only drawback is that the oil is full of aluminum from the wear of lowers and a complete clean presents a challenge. You can flush some out with alcohol. I've done that.

 

[RustiePyles]

I planned to change the fork oil on the bike. I am not yet ready to dismount the forks. Is there any issue with this plan I should be aware of?

You'll have to disassemble them to change the seals.

 

[RustiePyles]

Here's the motion pro level gauge/syringe

 

[jetmechmarty]

Here's the motion pro level gauge/syringe

Also available from yamahaxs650.com
LINK