ignition coils

colebrooker

colebrooker

XS650E US import
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Location
Wiltshire, England.
Is anyone using the Andrew supervolt coils as mentioned in the Minton mods? I am in the UK but I can see them available in the USA. I do find my standard ones behave poorly using electric start unless the battery is fully charged. The kicker is fine which I prefer anyway but a bit extra would be good. Any comments?
 
I run an Andrews Supervolt with my Pamco now. Before it I ran an Accel Power Pulse. But I still suffer from symptoms such as yours. I think the problem resides in the wimpy small stock battery. It doesn't have much of a reserve capacity and is drawn down quickly under sustained cranking, especially in cold weather. That's why I kick mine for the first start of the day when it's really cold out. After the oil is warmed and thinned, the electric starter fires it up pretty easily the rest of the day.

But you may also be suffering from another common problem on most any old bike - low power to the coils. 12v leaves your battery but by the time it gets through all the old wiring, connections, and switches, it's not 12v any more at the coils. Here's a test and fix .....

http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/us...content-component/article-categories/89-coils
 
colebrooker said:
Is anyone using the Andrew supervolt coils as mentioned in the Minton mods? I am in the UK but I can see them available in the USA. I do find my standard ones behave poorly using electric start unless the battery is fully charged. The kicker is fine which I prefer anyway but a bit extra would be good. Any comments?
Click to expand...

If you want your bike to start perfectly, with the electric starter, every time, every day without fail, buy an Accel #140403S ignition coil. I've been using that coil for 8 years now, and my engine has always started immediately using the electric starter. Not even one fail to start in 8 years, so that's why I can recommend that coil.

I use the stock size 14 amp/hour, lead/acid battery, and find it has lots of power to crank the engine.

Yes, the battery needs to be fully charged. You indicate that your battery is not being fully charged, so I recommend that you install a voltmeter on your bike. The voltmeter will allow you to monitor the charging system while you drive. You need to see 14 volts or greater while you drive down the road. If you don't get 14 volts, then your battery is never going to reach full charge.

Tons of info on this site, as to how to troubleshoot the charging system.

If you are using smaller than 14 amp/hr battery, then all bets are off.

Make sure your large cables from the battery positive and negative terminals are clean with no corrsion. Same for where the negative cable contacts the frame.

Changing over to LED taillight(s), will also aid the charging system to reach 14+ volts.
 
Not to start a whats better war, but I recently made the swap from a Mikes XS coil, to the Dynatek DC1 Minature 3 ohm coil and wouldn't want anything else. Its small, durable, inexpensive and I believe they are also made in the USA, with a 1 year warranty. (Mikes doesn't offer anything)

Plus I like the position of the terminals, because they give the wiring a uniform left-right split look.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181254210901?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

that's where I got mine, and Ill be buying another for the next bike soon. HTH
 
Dumb question, but could you use two of those coils with points, grounding the unused lead off each coil? That is, use one coil for the left cylinder/ground and the second for the right cylinder/ground.
 
One thing i learnt on my bike especially when cold, (in a shed overnight not outside), or even warm..........DO NOT crank the starter over more than 4 or 5 revolutions at a single time. If it doesn't start in that time it will drain any battery.

By doing it this way and stopping wait a few seconds then try again it lets the battery retain some surface charge.
 
The Pamco requires a single coil with dual output. I use the Andrews designed as a Harley replacement, the red 2.8 ohm #237240 .....

Coils.jpg


AndrewsCoil.jpg
 
With points you can run a dual output coil, hook power to one side of primary, hook both sets of points to the other side of primary. Unhook one condenser.
I ran my 75 that way for awhile. I also tried Mike's dual lobe points cam, Not so good. The timing of one lobe to the other was off about 5 degrees.
I quit screwing around with points and put in a basic Pamco. I have since upgraded to the E-advancer Pamco. Starts and runs much better. A bit more power and smoother.
I run Mike's green monster coil. plenty of power for ease of starting.
Leo
 
Terrible1 said:
Not to start a whats better war, but I recently made the swap from a Mikes XS coil, to the Dynatek DC1 Minature 3 ohm coil and wouldn't want anything else. Its small, durable, inexpensive and I believe they are also made in the USA, with a 1 year warranty. (Mikes doesn't offer anything)

Plus I like the position of the terminals, because they give the wiring a uniform left-right split look.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181254210901?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

that's where I got mine, and Ill be buying another for the next bike soon. HTH
Click to expand...

I'm running this coil with my E-advance Pamco. It's a great part IMO. Peak output near 3 times the original coils. Plenty of ass to spare for a properly tuned bike. No flame thrower needed.

Posted via Mobile
 
XSLeo said:
With points you can run a dual output coil, hook power to one side of primary, hook both sets of points to the other side of primary. Unhook one condenser.
I ran my 75 that way for awhile. I also tried Mike's dual lobe points cam, Not so good. The timing of one lobe to the other was off about 5 degrees.
I quit screwing around with points and put in a basic Pamco. I have since upgraded to the E-advancer Pamco. Starts and runs much better. A bit more power and smoother.
I run Mike's green monster coil. plenty of power for ease of starting.
Leo
Click to expand...

Sorry for the thread steal, but this is for a TX750 that has a single condenser assembly, but there are two leads that plug into it. Is the assembly in fact two condensers so I would just cut one lead? I like the idea of a single coil vs. two as I initially inquired about, and also higher power output vs. the stock coil (same as the 650)
 

Attachments

  • 0condenser.jpg
    0condenser.jpg
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Yes, that is two condensers mounted end to end, just like on the 650. You could use either black wire (but not both).
 
Selfishly I ask you fellas to either email or call Dynatec and let them know you're liking their products on a XS650.

Reason?

I want Dyna 3000 thats programmable for my XS650
626-963-1669

Posted via Mobile
 
Yes. Points coils should be around 4 ohms. Most electronic iggy use lower resistance. A Co for example can use 4 to as low as 2 I believe. Some dynas go lower.
 
5twins said:
But you may also be suffering from another common problem on most any old bike - low power to the coils. 12v leaves your battery but by the time it gets through all the old wiring, connections, and switches, it's not 12v any more at the coils. Here's a test and fix .....

http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/us...content-component/article-categories/89-coils
Click to expand...

5twins,

Using a relay has its drawbacks, namely that the relay will drop out when the battery voltage declines during starting.
 

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