Here's a how-to I used when I recovered my H1 seat.
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/seatcover/seatcover.htm
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/seatcover/seatcover.htm
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Yam_Tech314's official build thread
- Thread starter G_YamTech_314
- Start date
Nice work on that Kawasaki seat!
PROFANITY ALERT
So, I had to change the oil in our car today, and I don't have a car jack YET. I know it's REALLY not recommended to use a jack that's rated less than the weight of your object, But I don't wanna neglect the only car we have, and I didnt want to wait. That being said, I had to find somewhere to put my motor, since it's home until now was on the motorcycle jack.
I lifted the motor onto my workbench all by myself. Which was a feat. It took so long I ran outta time for the oil change... ANYWAYS. Now I need to figure out what I'm gonna do about a motor stand. I also filmed it so that if I got hurt or killed somehow (I'm clumbsy) people would see how it happened! Saves a lot of money on an investigation...
Nevertheless, I hope you enjoy this video of a not-so-strong or athletic 22 year old lifting what I've read to be approximately 170 pounds of dead weight from about two feet off the ground. Oh, and it's still full of oil.
So, I had to change the oil in our car today, and I don't have a car jack YET. I know it's REALLY not recommended to use a jack that's rated less than the weight of your object, But I don't wanna neglect the only car we have, and I didnt want to wait. That being said, I had to find somewhere to put my motor, since it's home until now was on the motorcycle jack.
I lifted the motor onto my workbench all by myself. Which was a feat. It took so long I ran outta time for the oil change... ANYWAYS. Now I need to figure out what I'm gonna do about a motor stand. I also filmed it so that if I got hurt or killed somehow (I'm clumbsy) people would see how it happened! Saves a lot of money on an investigation...
Nevertheless, I hope you enjoy this video of a not-so-strong or athletic 22 year old lifting what I've read to be approximately 170 pounds of dead weight from about two feet off the ground. Oh, and it's still full of oil.
Yup. They weigh a few pounds. You shoulda invited your brother over for a beer! 
All seriousness aside, the weight of the engine is relative. If you were a big fat guy, (like me 
) that engine would represent a lesser percentage of your body weight. But really, I had a buddy to help me get my engine onto a stand. Consider the beer/brother idea next time... Back injuries are no joke. They come back to haunt you when you get old.... 
All seriousness aside, the weight of the engine is relative. If you were a big fat guy, (like me ) that engine would represent a lesser percentage of your body weight. But really, I had a buddy to help me get my engine onto a stand. Consider the beer/brother idea next time... Back injuries are no joke. They come back to haunt you when you get old....
Back injuries are no joke. They come back to haunt you when you get old....
Tell me about it!! I've got two herniated disks. Been that way from age 17. Learning how to lift properly has been VITAL to my recovery. Still though, definitely not bad advice.
I messed up though guys... My curiosity gets me in trouble a lot. Tonight was no exception. How do I get the worm gear for the tachometer back into the motor!?!?
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Wow! That was a real nail biter! I was rootin for ya buddy! Be careful though, you’ve still got your whole life in front of you and you only get one back.
When I pulled my motor, I had considered buying a stand, but I read here somewhere, I want to say it was from Grizld1, that you don’t need a motor stand, just some blocks of wood. So I tried it, I went to the home center and bought one 2x3 and one 1x2 and just cut them up into small pieces, like 6” long. Ridiculously cheap and worked like a charm. I rolled that motor all over my bench and used the big blocks for main supports and the small pieces to wedge in , here and there. Worked great! Also, I put a layer of cardboard on top of my bench for cushioning and then a cheapo plastic table cloth from Walmart on top of that and it protects your cases from scratching up and also oil wipes right off. However you proceed, HAVE FUN !
Be careful though, you’ve still got your whole life in front of you and you only get one back. When I pulled my motor, I had considered buying a stand, but I read here somewhere, I want to say it was from Grizld1, that you don’t need a motor stand, just some blocks of wood. So I tried it, I went to the home center and bought one 2x3 and one 1x2 and just cut them up into small pieces, like 6” long. Ridiculously cheap and worked like a charm. I rolled that motor all over my bench and used the big blocks for main supports and the small pieces to wedge in , here and there. Worked great! Also, I put a layer of cardboard on top of my bench for cushioning and then a cheapo plastic table cloth from Walmart on top of that and it protects your cases from scratching up and also oil wipes right off. However you proceed, HAVE FUN !
Only safe way to do it is to remove the cover. On the bottom of the worm gear shaft is a shim washer. The only way to know for sure the shaft went through it instead of knocking it down into the sump is to actually look at it while you install the shaft. Anything else is "I think I got it."
Haha! I stopped for dinner and Jim beat me to it!
Pull the right cover, there is a very thin washer that sits at the bottom of that drive that probably fell off in there.
Yup.
I didn't film myself. In fact, I didn't really make up my mind I was gonna lift that heavy lump on my own. Take a look:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/hello-from-new-member.55057/page-7#post-601591
Decided then and there a 60-odd years old bloke ain't going to do that again, so got two much younger helpers to assist when the motor went back in the frame.
The little $7.99 mover's dolly from HF makes a nice little engine storage stand, also makes it very easy to move the thing around the garage .....
I have homemade angle iron engine stands but the motor will nestle down into the dolly just fine without one too.
I have homemade angle iron engine stands but the motor will nestle down into the dolly just fine without one too.
Okay... So now that I have been able to get the motor on the bench, I can't help but feel the urge to see what it looks like inside...
That being said, I know I need to pull out the manual now. Even more important though, I need ADVICE. (as usual)
Is it not advisable to disassemblebaj engine when I do not have plans of reassembling right away? I mean, in all honesty, I'm gonna have to leave it apart for awhile when I send it to the machine shop and vapor honing shop (if I go that route...)
I plan to box and label, and bag all bits and pieces, including hardware. But I want some insight on that. Am I destined to forget more than it's worth? Or am I safe to take this beast apart and start compiling a detailed list of what I'll ACTUALLY need?
That being said, I know I need to pull out the manual now. Even more important though, I need ADVICE. (as usual)
Is it not advisable to disassemblebaj engine when I do not have plans of reassembling right away? I mean, in all honesty, I'm gonna have to leave it apart for awhile when I send it to the machine shop and vapor honing shop (if I go that route...)
I plan to box and label, and bag all bits and pieces, including hardware. But I want some insight on that. Am I destined to forget more than it's worth? Or am I safe to take this beast apart and start compiling a detailed list of what I'll ACTUALLY need?
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I'm no expert mechanic, but I have learned a thing or two about organization. You’re absolutely right about doing meticulous tagging and bagging. I labeled everything. Even nuts and bolts. Every grouping went in their own ziplock bag, example: all the valve cover nuts, or the sidecover bolts, sump plate bolts etc. etc. I then had one large Tupperware container that all my engine hardware was kept in. Another container for all of my frame hardware.
I bought boxes of no name sandwich ziplock bags for the small stuff and gallon size bags for larger things.
Then I bought cheapo disposable food storage containers , both small and large for things like ignition components and carburetors, etc.
I also bought large tubs for larger components such as swingarms and steering heads and shock absorbers , anything bulky.
And photograph things from different angles as you go, take lots of photos. Digital photos are free, never trust your memory. I may be a little on the anal side of things, but I’ll tell you it sure helped me. There were times when my bike was completely apart when I wondered if I’d ever get it back together, and for some guys, they never do. Just be meticulous and you’ll be fine.
I bought boxes of no name sandwich ziplock bags for the small stuff and gallon size bags for larger things.
Then I bought cheapo disposable food storage containers , both small and large for things like ignition components and carburetors, etc.
I also bought large tubs for larger components such as swingarms and steering heads and shock absorbers , anything bulky.
And photograph things from different angles as you go, take lots of photos. Digital photos are free, never trust your memory. I may be a little on the anal side of things, but I’ll tell you it sure helped me. There were times when my bike was completely apart when I wondered if I’d ever get it back together, and for some guys, they never do. Just be meticulous and you’ll be fine.
So. It took me longer than necessary, but I had nothing better to do, and I didn't punch a clock, so I don't care.
Got the whole top end properly disassembled. Seems relatively simple. My biggest concerns are the amount of piston movement I had side to side... Am I supposed to be able to move them back and forth by hand? If I nestle my thumb and index finger in the grooves for the valves, and move from front of motor, to back of motor, I get a good bit of "wiggle" I'm betting there was a good bit of piston slappage because they're scored a good bit.
I also discovered a D.I.D cam chain. Which means someone has been in here before... I'm glad I'm back in it, so I know it'll get done right. Does the slack in the side of this cam chain look excessive???
I wrapped all the parts in paper/shop towels ($$$) and bagged them and boxed them. Labeled of course. It seems like a very simple top end.
I'm excited to find a shop local (or close) to my area that can vapor blast everything off. I'd like everything to look new. I'll be spending some time scrubbing grime off when I get a chance. But for now, I'm pooped. Gonna get some rest, go to the 9-5 and see what tomorrow evening brings.
Got the whole top end properly disassembled. Seems relatively simple. My biggest concerns are the amount of piston movement I had side to side... Am I supposed to be able to move them back and forth by hand? If I nestle my thumb and index finger in the grooves for the valves, and move from front of motor, to back of motor, I get a good bit of "wiggle" I'm betting there was a good bit of piston slappage because they're scored a good bit.
I also discovered a D.I.D cam chain. Which means someone has been in here before... I'm glad I'm back in it, so I know it'll get done right. Does the slack in the side of this cam chain look excessive???
I wrapped all the parts in paper/shop towels ($$$) and bagged them and boxed them. Labeled of course. It seems like a very simple top end.
I'm excited to find a shop local (or close) to my area that can vapor blast everything off. I'd like everything to look new. I'll be spending some time scrubbing grime off when I get a chance. But for now, I'm pooped. Gonna get some rest, go to the 9-5 and see what tomorrow evening brings.
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Paper absorbs moisture... that brings rust. Open them bags back up and squirt a fair bit of motor oil in there.
Got it all wrapped up... The right way. Sprayed it good with P B Blaster, and I boxed everything back up, triple wrapped in recycled grocery bags. Should be safe for a month or so.
Here's how I ended my night.
I always try to clean off the workbench and put all the tools away before going to sleep. It makes my next job so much easier, and keeps me motivated to make progress. I never leave myself a pile of tools to play with before wrenching if I can help it...
Here's how I ended my night.
I always try to clean off the workbench and put all the tools away before going to sleep. It makes my next job so much easier, and keeps me motivated to make progress. I never leave myself a pile of tools to play with before wrenching if I can help it...
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D.I.D. usually was the stock cam chain. If you've got 20K or more on the motor, I would just replace the chain. Usually you don't remove the old chain until you're ready to put the new one in. You hook the end of the new chain to the old one and use the old one to pull the new one into the engine. If the rivet job on the master link looked something like this, then it probably is still the original chain .....
Pistons have a somewhat egg shape, widest at about 1/2" up from the bottom of the skirt, narrowest at the top, which gets hotter and expands more. So, yeah, they'll wiggle a bit at the top. Remember this entertaining thread?
http://www.xs650.com/threads/did-my-machine-shop-overshoot-these-bore-sizes.40227/
I can confirm that the cam chain looked just like the one you posted twins.
Out of curiosity I did ring end gap measurements, but I'm not gonna go off of the measurement, because out of excitement, I lost track of which piston was left, and which was right .I know that's not a good practice, but I can have it measured, and have proper sizes ordered, so I'm glad I'm buying new ones...
In my opinion, I'm glad it's being rebuilt. I'll have a good foundation now. I'll be able to track my maintenance better and I'll know how many miles get put onto the fresh build.
The scoring of the Pistons is enough for me to buy new. I'm sure some people would've reused these guys after a good cleaning and measuring, but again, I want a good foundation and to know that I did it myself, and that hopefully I did it correctly.
The wrist pin clip looked like it was also in wrong, in school (if I remember correctly) the opening in the ring clip is supposed to be riding in the top or bottom of that piston, not the side. (Perhaps they move over time?)
Out of curiosity I did ring end gap measurements, but I'm not gonna go off of the measurement, because out of excitement, I lost track of which piston was left, and which was right .I know that's not a good practice, but I can have it measured, and have proper sizes ordered, so I'm glad I'm buying new ones...
In my opinion, I'm glad it's being rebuilt. I'll have a good foundation now. I'll be able to track my maintenance better and I'll know how many miles get put onto the fresh build.
The scoring of the Pistons is enough for me to buy new. I'm sure some people would've reused these guys after a good cleaning and measuring, but again, I want a good foundation and to know that I did it myself, and that hopefully I did it correctly.
The wrist pin clip looked like it was also in wrong, in school (if I remember correctly) the opening in the ring clip is supposed to be riding in the top or bottom of that piston, not the side. (Perhaps they move over time?)
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