Push rod bushing remnants?

Shipper

Shipper

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In the past I have replaced push rod bushings and seals with no problems. This time around I am doing a full rebuild with gear shafts removed. Upon inspecting the push rod channel, it appears that the bushing has been removed on this shaft but it also appears that the whole bushing may not have been extracted. I have searched the sites in the garage forum but can't find a picture of a shaft with the bushing removed. Should that shaft bee absolutely smooth from end to end or is there a lip as appears to be the case in the pic below.

If thats a bushing residue piece, how can I get it removed without damaging the shaft.

Thanks mates.
IMG_1361.jpg
IMG_1364.jpg
IMG_1364.jpg
 
It's been awhile since I did one, so I'm going on memeory, That is a shoulder that stops the bushing from going in to far. With out a stop the bushing could work deep into the shaft and provide no support for the push rod.
If you have a deoth gauge on a dial cliper you can measure the distance from the shoulder out to bevel in the shaft. This measurement should be about the same as the length of the bushing.
The bushing may be longer. As long as the bushing when installed doesn't protrude out of the shaft it should be fine.
Leo
 
2m @TwoManyXS1Bs covers this somewhere in his clutch experiments and it's vitally important. If the bushing goes in too far it will block the oil passage that lubes the tranny. IIRC.
 
XSLeo said:
It's been awhile since I did one, so I'm going on memeory, That is a shoulder that stops the bushing from going in to far. With out a stop the bushing could work deep into the shaft and provide no support for the push rod.
If you have a deoth gauge on a dial cliper you can measure the distance from the shoulder out to bevel in the shaft. This measurement should be about the same as the length of the bushing.
The bushing may be longer. As long as the bushing when installed doesn't protrude out of the shaft it should be fine.
Leo
Click to expand...
Now that makes perfect sense. I did intend on doing that exact measurement once I received the new bushing but your explanation is pretty good. Thanks Leo.
 
Looking at your pics a bit closer the shoulder i'm talking about my be deeper in than I first thought.
There is one shoulder that looks to be out close to the bevel and another in deeper. Measure brom the bevel in to both shoulders and compare to the length of a new bushing.
The brighter sahinier area between the shoulders just may be the remenants of an old bushing.
If it is you may be able to use a snug fitting drill bit to remove it or use a reamer a .001" or so smaller than a new bushing.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
Looking at your pics a bit closer the shoulder i'm talking about my be deeper in than I first thought.
There is one shoulder that looks to be out close to the bevel and another in deeper. Measure brom the bevel in to both shoulders and compare to the length of a new bushing.
The brighter sahinier area between the shoulders just may be the remenants of an old bushing.
If it is you may be able to use a snug fitting drill bit to remove it or use a reamer a .001" or so smaller than a new bushing.
Leo
Click to expand...

Either way, the depth of the new bushing should tell me what I need to know.

Thanks Leo
 
What I did was run a tap into the bushing, just a bit. Then, I threaded in a carriage bolt. I yanked it out with that. It was pretty easy, once I figured that out.
 
jetmechmarty said:
What I did was run a tap into the bushing, just a bit. Then, I threaded in a carriage bolt. I yanked it out with that. It was pretty easy, once I figured that out.
Click to expand...

Ya, i was able to remove previous bushings with a properly fitted drill bit. The problem here is (see pic) whomever removed the previous bushing didn't get it all and has left mushed up remains seemingly fastened to the shaft (see pic). I'm thinking a 25/64 drill bit (don't have one yet), will do the job - carefully!! Hopefully!!
 
The original bushing is split down the side. If that is remnants of an original, find the split and drive a small thin screwdriver or an awl in between it and the bore in the shaft right next to the split. That will collapse the bushing in on itself and it can be easily pulled out .....

mmd5igx.jpg
 
5twins said:
The original bushing is split down the side. If that is remnants of an original, find the split and drive a small thin screwdriver or an awl in between it and the bore in the shaft right next to the split. That will collapse the bushing in on itself and it can be easily pulled out .....

mmd5igx.jpg
Click to expand...


Success!! What a S.O.B. Got a tiny flathead behind a high spot on the remnants and worked it out piece by piece. Thanks team.
Ordered some needed gaskets and seals - crankshaft is out for assessment. Progress!


IMG_1366.jpg
 
Just a note on that bushing bore. When I did my XS2 many years ago I noticed that when I turned that shaft (after replacing the bushing)the clutch rod was visibly moving up and down and around. Since you have the trans out I would check that run out. My bore was out by .020 or so. That aint good for the seal. I ended up have my machinist press in some bearing bronze and machine it straight. Yours is probably good but I was surprised to find that the tolerance was so great.
 
Last edited:
cra-z1 said:
Just a note on that bushing bore. When I did my XS2 many years ago I noticed that when I turned that shaft (after replacing the brushing)the clutch rod was visibly moving up and down and around. Since you have the trans out I would check that run out. My bore was out by .020 or so. That aint good for the seal. I ended up have my machinist press in some bearing bronze and machine it straight. Yours is probably good but I was surprised to find that the tolerance was so great.
Click to expand...

That's interesting. Will have a look.

Thanks.
 

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