13.2 volts at idle and 14.2 underway

Brew

XS650 Addict
Messages
207
Reaction score
13
Points
18
are these exceptable numbers for my PMA set up? I have a added a voltmeter to monitor the voltage for spikes or jumps while riding. I've also added a 15 amp fuse on the positive coming from the regulator to battery. This will be the third battery I've had to purchase.
 
If the 15 amp fuse is to protect the battery from what's charging it, it's too high. If I used a 10 amp battery charger on a mc battery I'd expect it to damage it. Typical charger for mc battery is 1 or 2 amps. Don't know what the stock charging system delivers to battery (never had a problem there so never looked into it) but I'd expect it to be on the order of 1 amp.
 
I've been sourcing parts for a PMA and from what I've read those numbers are pretty spot on. Any higher than 15 volts is electronic ignition burn-up territory, although most seem to be rated more than that.

I can't comment on the size of the fuse, but remember the circuit is what draws amperage. Too high voltage damages components, too low, they don't work. Too low amperage damages the power supply, too high is irrelevant because the circuit controls amp draw. A fuse is like a canary, if it blows, you need to diagnose a problem, so if you're burning up batteries it's time to look elsewhere in the circuit.
 
I've been sourcing parts for a PMA and from what I've read those numbers are pretty spot on. Any higher than 15 volts is electronic ignition burn-up territory, although most seem to be rated more than that.

I can't comment on the size of the fuse, but remember the circuit is what draws amperage. Too high voltage damages components, too low, they don't work. Too low amperage damages the power supply, too high is irrelevant because the circuit controls amp draw. A fuse is like a canary, if it blows, you need to diagnose a problem, so if you're burning up batteries it's time to look elsewhere in the circuit.

the thing that's got me confused is the last time I cooked a battery I tested the regulator and its working as it should. So the regulator didn't fail but some how the battery still got cooked.
 
Could be a bad component that fails under certain conditions like heat, vibration, run time length. This includes the regulator.
 
Could be a bad component that fails under certain conditions like heat, vibration, run time length. This includes the regulator.
agreed that's why i added the volt gauge so I can monitor it while riding.
 
too high is irrelevant because the circuit controls amp draw.
Yes. But in the case of a battery its low internal resistance when it needs charging will cause it to draw enough current to damage it if the current is available. So with say a 1 amp charger, only one amp max is available which forces the charging voltage to drop to limit the current to one amp following the equation current = voltage/resistance. Car batteries can handle ten amps, so you can use a 10 amp charger.
 
Just to be specific, what battery are you using? Where is your volt meter wired to, directly to the battery or after switches? Directly to the battery would be better, could use a relay or switch to turn it off when not running the engine. If it is wired after the ignition switch the real voltage at the battery could be just high enough to cook the battery.

Scott
 
Just to be specific, what battery are you using? Where is your volt meter wired to, directly to the battery or after switches? Directly to the battery would be better, could use a relay or switch to turn it off when not running the engine. If it is wired after the ignition switch the real voltage at the battery could be just high enough to cook the battery.

Scott
yuasa battery xs650 size, wired directly to the battery and it's got a switch on it.
 
Back
Top