1975 XS650B - Resurrection

Mollard

XS650 Enthusiast
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Been watching and reading here for a long time. Finally have time to dive into this project. Long story short, I ended up buying this 1975 XS650B from the original owner just outside of my hometown. Seems to be in good condition for it's age. Original owner last rode it in 1985. Has been in a garden shed ever since.

Edit: Found a new way to navigate the site after I created this thread. Answered some of my previous questions.

My goal here is to get this bike running and clean it up over the winter.

What are the specifics with this bike. Which series engine is this? Carbs? Anything to watch for, or tips about this specific model year?



Thanks in advanced fellas.

In all its original glory.
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Sissy bar, luggage rack, and crash bar were installed when new at the dealership.
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7414 miles.
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Only thing I can see missing is the tool kit.
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Last reg. sticker is 1985
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The left hand signal light has been bent, but an easy fix.
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That's a truly fantastic find. It should clean up nicely, but it will take lots of time and some money.

Look at the "Tech" at top of page, and the "Search" function will get you tons of related information.
 
looks like a dis-assembly and clean up is needed, invest in a box of plastic baggies (sandwich and larger) to bag parts with their bolts/screws add a notes with the parts take lots of pics, these bikes are easy to break down into separate systems, carbs, brakes/wheels, suspension/steering stem bearings, swingarm, ect. clean the electrical plugs-ins as you go, I don't much care for sissy bars but with some clean up you should have a good dependable machine... good project for that long Canadian winter :bike: BTW it's a 447 engine if it's a 75 serial #'s started at 100101 on the cases behind front motor mount should match with frame # on the neck, carbs are the BS38's
 
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Yes, nice place to start. A bit of elbow grease and a few easy repairs and that bike should run well for a long time.
Setting since 85 means new tires no matter how good they look. Old tires can fail without warning.
On the lisense plate the black backer is a good idea, just mount the plate up higher so it is held with all four bolts not just the bottom two.
Carb cleaning, www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf. The tank too.
Go through the wiring, checking for clean tight connections, this will fix many problems before they happen.
In my opinion that year has the best color scheme of any, the black with the white and gold is awesome.
Leo
 
Thanks for the info on the 447 and BS38.

Here's a list I have compiled so I can get a jump start on ordering some parts.

Would like to get the motor running and tuned first:

New battery
Change oil
Check/clean all electrical connections
Flush/ clean rust in tank
Install inline fuel filter
Clean or rebuilt carbs as needed
Clean or replace air filters
Oil change and oil filter change
Check Cam chain adjustment
Check valve clearances
Clutch adjustment
Lube cables
Compression check.

After running and tuned:

New tires
Service brakes
Check charging system

This is my first attempt at something like this and will be learning along the way. That link provided above with the carb info looks very useful. Any other write ups around like this? There seems to be no links on the http://www.amckayltd.com/ home page. Would like to do as much reading and research as possible before I begin this project.

Also, I have read in other threads of the possibility of rust forming in the engine due to sitting. This engine is free and turns over. Would like to stop the possibility of further damage due to rust. Would like to avoid a top end rebuild if possible. My idea is to use engine oil in the tappet covers and a small amount in the cylinders,followed by a few rotations of the motor, each day while I deal with other issues. Any suggestions?
 
If you don't want the locking feature of your gas cap, it is easy enough to disable. Takes 15-20 minutes.
1. Take gas cap off tank.
2. Remove lock cylinder. First unscrew the two small screw. Put aside latch assembly. Where the lock cylinder is housed, you will see a small brass tab. Using a thin screwdriver or pick push the tab into the cylinder and at the same time push the cylinder out of the housing. Once out of the housing you will notice 3 other tabs, besides the tab that locks the cylinder to the housing. Remove those tabs, but not the locking tab.
3. Replace the cylinder by pushing the tab in and sliding into the housing.
4. Put everything back together. Use a nail or thin screwdriver to hold the latch in position while reassembling.

You should be able to open the gas with any key or flat object that will fit in the cylinder.
 

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This engine is free and turns over. Would like to stop the possibility of further damage due to rust. Would like to avoid a top end rebuild if possible. My idea is to use engine oil in the tappet covers and a small amount in the cylinders,followed by a few rotations of the motor, each day while I deal with other issues. Any suggestions?
spray the cams/valves with light oil and a little in the cylinders should be good for a few months, then turning it over weekly should keep it lubed
 
hmusket, the cap you are talking about are the later special caps. The 75 cap hinges from the front and the key goes in from the rear,not the top.
You can open the 75 cap, remove the lock, pull the tumblers out of the lock so any key will work.
More info is up at the top of the page, just click TECH, or XS650 TECH.Leads you to a whole list of links.
Leo
 
Hi Mollard. Nice find it has been sitting for some time you should expect the lower seals to start leaking I would get the seals in the 10 piece set OEM Reference #
• 91216-729-921
if the bike has glass fuses i would change them to blade fuses
Good luck and have alot of fun ,Ed
 
Will use engine oil on the pistons/valves likely. With and old timey oil can. The gas cap tip just may come in handy sometime. Carbon, are you talking the left and right side cases, or replace everything in that 10 pc kit?

Thanks
 
I have no science behind this but I like to hit the engine with PB blaster before doing all the valve setting, cam chain, first compression tests, etc. I spray in the intake, exhaust, plug hole, and between the valve springs. And I hit every fastener, rusted surface I can see. I think the payoff on using a half can of PB blaster on a bike start up is a great time (parts) saver.
 
Good advice mentioned here!

I’m in the same boat with Mollard with the exact same bike only I’m doing a full restore. The PO (Old Lady) got the bike in a divorce settlement and it sat in her garage since ’84 then covered under a tree for a period of time.

The bike didn’t run when I got it and there was a lots of rust which is why I decided to restore. It’s down to the raw frame and will be headed to powder coating tomorrow. Engine rebuild starts next week.

The best part is I only paid $100 for the bike. I couldn’t pass it up.
 
Nice JP! Post up some pictures. I'm sure I'll be bugging you for a bit of advice once I get further into this thing? Complete restore to original, or a bit of a resto-mod? Rebuilding the motor yourself?

Right on!
 
It'll be a resto with cosmetic changes.

I was ill today so it didn't get the frame and parts into powder coating today as I thought. Instead, they will go in on Monday. Parts to be chromed will go in after the holidays.

I'm rebuilding the engine myself, polishing some components and re-spoking the rims after powder coating. I'll try to post pics of the breakdown tomorrow.
 
Very nice looking original. Where in Ontario are you from. I have just recently started my chop and I live in Scarborough. But the bike is in Bay Ridges, about 10-15 minutes from me. Be sure to take lots of pictures and keep us posted on your progress.
 
Get yourself well JP.

I've been working on tear down. Decided to go full on resto-mod with this thing. Bring it back to near original with a few reliability and cosmetic changed also. Would really like to get these rims powdered black.

1979 xs650, I' out twords London. Parkhill, near Grand Bend. Been taking LOADS of pictures, not only for documentation, but so I can get this thing back together correctly.
 
Hi Mollard nice find ! I have just bought the exact same bike in more or less the same state and waiting for new diaphrgmas to arrive so I can start her up before total stripdown. Will be needing to ask you loads of questions !
 
xsmoley, when you put the kits in besure to check the new parts to the old. Most of the kits come with generic parts. They may or may not be right for your carb set.
Leo
 
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