1977 yamaha 650 d restoration files

Upper Trip aluminum clamp finishing

  • paint stock

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • polish aluminum

    Votes: 8 80.0%

  • Total voters
    10
  • Poll closed .
You seem plenty competent, but figured I would throw out there some painting advice since I just went through a nightmare with it on another project...

- Make sure that your primer is the right type, etch, non-etch, high build, etc.
- Make sure that the primer is compatable with the finish coat you plan to use, sometimes even a difference in brand can cause problems.
- Paint a test piece... trust me it is worth it!
 
Paint a test piece... trust me it is worth it!

The biggest mistakes I've ever made were done after ignoring advice like this. Woodworking comes to mind. I get impatient sometimes, and skip the dry-fitting step and just jump right into glueing and clamping. Or, not testing a finishing product on a spare piece of wood.
 
Down to the bare metal we go! Now... how to get rid of all this damn rust?
 

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bead blasting shmeed blasting, although a huge time saver, I am so close with wire wheels an BUTT loads of elbow grease
 

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Holy cow! Nice job. Wire-wheeling never gets it all, though (neither does bead blasting for that matter, if there is rust inside gussets and other inaccessible areas). For automotive undercarriage parts, I've used a sandable and paintable phosphoric-acid based metal conditioner/rust converter. Any rust that's in the cracks will turn to a black iron phosphate, which you can sand away or even paint over. Like others have suggested, find products that are compatible. I don't have any specific product recommendations, because I don't ever paint for appearance, but I've seen lots of good info on the forum on this subject.
 
Hey Great job so far. Believe me you want to put down a coat of etch prime before you paint.A good source for this is an automotive supply like O'reilly's or Autozone. They should have a rattle can of it. Just a medium light coat then primer coat.
 
thank you for the advice john, however like a bonehead I thought that i bought etching primer and primed the whole frame before realizing 3 of the cans were wrong and I had primed the whole thing in regular sandable primer, I hope the fact that the entire frame was rough from brushing that it will stick. Damn... i might have to strip it back down...
 
got the frame... again, and the swing arm through primer, then remembered that the motor mounts, triple tree and battery box all had to be done too. jeez this is gonna take some time...

On another note, the upper trip tree is aluminum? that is not good, now I have to decide to polish or paint it?!?

also, a question to all of the xs comm. the upper motor mounts, what are they? anodized? dont know what to do with them quite yet,
and.... where do you guys get your hardware? ie. nuts and bolts for re assembly.
 
more pics, thats my spray setup! two ladders and a 20 foot mahogany beam
 

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Pre, Its for maximum adhesion, if you multiply the upforce of the quantum acceleration of the capacitor fluxation in the paint it makes sense!
 
So, no product on earth is better than elbow grease, I have had parts sitting in a phosphoric acid bath, in vinigar, and in rust remover for 7 days, of all three tests, I could have had them all cleaned stripped and primed by hand in 2 days?!? so here is to stopping the "easy way"
 
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