1977 yamaha 650 d restoration files

Upper Trip aluminum clamp finishing

  • paint stock

    Votes: 2 20.0%

  • polish aluminum

    Votes: 8 80.0%
  • Total voters
    10
  • Poll closed .
finished (for now)
 

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Just out of curiosity what brand of degreaser are you using...I grabbed that Simple Green from Home depot the other day....Ya...it sucks...
 
degreaser... I used engine brite.... let it soak overnight till almost dry and then soaked again, not to mention the hours of brushing
 
Haven't had a chance to work on mine for a while, just polishing up the wheels. Have to take a day off to bring all the parts up to powder coat, only open on weekdays. Then I have to crack open the head and peek inside.
 
ron it is the rectifier... mine is going pma/pamco so I dont even need it...
glad to see you went with powder, I am sending mine to the paint shop this week I think.
 
but! I did just get some heat shrink tubing from platt electric today and just re did the wrap on my left and right controls with it! its awesome,
 
Ok all, just got my second order from mikes, and somehow through all of you kind souls on the classifieds section, and with your knowledge, I have acuired all oem parts I was missing or needed, even found oem grips nos from a local shop!
so now we are going to get serious...
from now on every post is going to be centered around how to's and logs of assembly. I hope to turn this into a total step by step on how I am going to get this pile of parts back up to its glory!
I cant wait!
I have about 90% of the parts cleaned and prepped.
and with elbow grease I have polished all the original nuts and bolts and will use them when I can.
and dont worry, pics will come
 
Many of the original nuts and bolts are cad plated. Polishing usually removes that and they start to rust. Testor's silver model paint works well for painting the bolt heads. It's a dull silver, not bright like chrome, and mimics the original cad plated finish quite well. I coat all fastener shafts and threads with anti-seize. Yes, the total length of the fastener shaft, not just the threads on the end.
 
5twins... if you cover the whole thing,
a.) removal? wouldnt it be stuck like heck?
b.) what color are you using for the anti sieze? blue is really tough. are you using it as a corrosion retardant as well as anti vibration?
 
No, not Loc-tite, anti-seize. It's a thread lubricant. It comes in both nickel and copper based versions. I use the copper based stuff because it shows up better on the threads (it's copper colored, the other stuff is silver). You should be using it on pretty much all the fasteners on your bike, especially the steel into aluminum ones. It prevents corrosion and thread galling.

http://www.newmantools.com/felpro/c5a.htm
 
So I have been working hard on polishing, these are my forks,
First thing I did was use aerosol based kleen strip aircraft stripper,
2. coated in oven cleaner, I mean coated, it will bubble and turn black, wait 10 minutes but don't let it dry...
3. wash off,
4. orange roloc wheel one direction,
5. blue roloc wheel opposing direction,
6. polished lightly to see any problems,
that brings us to this on one fork.
photo_zps5b5d93fd.jpg

photo1_zps8d533203.jpg

the next step which I'll have pics for soon,
is to start in with the sanding,
so far I have cleaned both forks, and have started working one from 320 to 600 so far always alternating direction.
 
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