1978 xs650 clutch will not disengage

WRS

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Yakima WA
Original complaint- when warm or stopped can not put in neutral.
New parts from mikesxs- clutch repair kit, pressure plate screws&springs, needle bear/thrush wash/kit,
clutch retaining wire, long 1pc. push rod, push rod seal, clutch cable.
soaked new fiber discs 2 day castrol 10-40, old discs at minimum, assemble new needle/bear. kit,friction
discs 6/5,new rod seal,
have looked at multiple discussion/video, all pieces are present& in proper order, when lever pulled
pressure plate travel 1/32-.08m worm travel 3/32- have also used original push rod, worm is in right but have
tried all positions it has the ball, both cables, left push rod bushing not excessively worn, rod adjust no change, nothing done changes, original lever ???
 
Did you align the pressure plate properly when mounting it? If not, the basket will bind up and not release correctly. There's an alignment dot stamped on one of the teeth on the inner hub .....

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It must show through the hole in the pressure plate .....

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...New parts from mikesxs- clutch repair kit, pressure plate screws&springs, needle bear/thrush wash/kit,
clutch retaining wire, long 1pc. push rod, push rod seal, clutch cable...

Are you using the OEM worm parts, or MikesXS kit?
If using the MikesXS kit, put the cable clevis on the inner hole.

... when lever pulled
pressure plate travel 1/32-.08m worm travel 3/32- ...

Pressure plate travel of 1/32" (0.032") isn't enuff. Try for at least 0.040" (1mm), or better 0.050" (1.25mm)...
 
Some of the parts you've described (6 friction/5 steel plates, retaining wire) are for the later clutch version. A stock '78 would have the 7 friction plate clutch. Did you swap them?
 
Are you using the OEM worm parts, or MikesXS kit?
If using the MikesXS kit, put the cable clevis on the inner hole.



Pressure plate travel of 1/32" (0.032") isn't enuff. Try for at least 0.040" (1mm), or better 0.050" (1.25mm)...
using original worm, no matter what I try or change travel always the same
 
I replaced exactly what I took apart, 7 plates will not fit. I purchased from a person who said he bought
from a old fellow that said it was his favorite one out of many.
 
Try this test next time you have the right side cover off.

Loosen each of the 6 clutch spring screws.
Unscrew them 2 turns each.
Actuate the clutch lever.
See if pressure plate movement increases.

If so, consider that the clutch springs may be entering bind mode.

If not, consider a problem in the worm mechanism, or pushrod bind...
 
I have tried loosening screws did not change, have not found problem with push rod tried original 3 pc with
ball bear. & replacement long rod, have not found a actual problem with worm.
 
Okay, then what happens when:

(Typical stoplight situation)
Engine is running,
In 1st gear,
Clutch pulled,
Fully stopped,
Can't get neutral.

During this, can you roll the bike fore and aft?
If you rev the engine up to 3,000-4,000 rpms, can you get neutral?
 
You might want to go back to square one and make sure all the spacer washers are there and in the right places, also that you don't have an extra one in there .....

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In particular, inspect the 1st two, the smaller one with the red color code and the blue color coded one. That red one must go on first to space the clutch hub away from the engine cases. Without it there, the hub will bind against the case.
 
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