1980 XS650 won't charge battery

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mooseheadluke

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I have a 1980 XS650 Special and it will not charge its battery. I thought it was the battery because it was old, so I replaced it, but it was not the battery. Then I opened up the cover on the alternator and replaced the brushes because they are cheap and easy to replace. That didn't fix it either. So now I want to test the other parts of the charging system like the stator winding, rotor, voltage regulator, rectifier (I think it and the regulator are all one part?) Anyways, does anyone have any details on how to test these things so I can isolate the problem. I know that you can test the rotor with a ohmmeter across the two rings, but I don't know the ohmic value I should be seeing. FYI, After it I jumpstart it and its running, when I rev the engine I get about 6.5 volts trying to charge the dead battery .
 
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Check the rotor..........lift one brush and see if it is 5 ohms or so between the 2 brass rings......early windings on these old rotors short below 5 easily and crap from all the heat in there.........if that's the problem and and you need a new rotor stand off the round cover 1/8" with a piece of tubing and lowger screws anyway and this will drop the temps in there from 180+ to 130......water hurts nothing............if that's not the problem then stand off the cover anyway..............future

xsjohn
 

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They do but the rotor is the most likely culprit. Between the two bands you need 5+ ohms. Between the bands and the hub you want infinity. That is an I in the pic not a one.
 

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I haven't in 76 thousand but I suppose some do........take some time and clean every connection on the wiring harness including the kill switch and use dielectric grease.......doesn't have to be done all one time ...just mark with a magic marker the ones you did including the multi plugs (2 pair of pliers needed on them tight bitches usually) and get them all....will save your TCi and it is the best ignition except that is is a bit advanced from the epa idiots in 1980 and on....check this...sorry to post so much on this subject but it saved my ride........among others things............all easy stuff really................. .168 would be max retard for a lower rpm ride.........if you are still into all the high rpm stuff which will destroy it then maybe some less than .168........but still some is needed.....LOL

Good luck with those lean carbs too.........you need to see me about that once you get it running......
 

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Have to love the future of an 80........dear god have I been there or what.....hope things are great for you...and you are listening.....or the miles are a lot less than mine.......great bike and probably the best of all of them once it is done and working within it's capabilities ...........collected 3 of everything to fix it if necessary and now may not need any of it.......famous last words.........they all chop them up and have no good motor knowledge,,,or any idea what to do ,,,,and basically at that point they have nothing.........:laugh:........xsjohn
 
Actually, one more question. My neighbour has a couple of old 650 engines, he thinks they are 1977,78s. Can I use the rotors out of one of them? Or are they different because 1980 they went to CDI instead of points.? Or should I just cough up the dough for a brand new rotor?
 
No, later rotors have a magnet embedded to trigger the TCI (not CDI). Could be possible to insert your own magnet..........Want to be spot on though, easier to just get a new correct one.

Jimmy, Mikes has new rotors with or without magnet for $139.

If your going to remove the rotor, be sure to get the puller, any other method will damage the rotor!!!!! :cheers:
 
I was jc what the cost for a new one compared to converting to PMA was. I guess if you factored in the selling value of the rotor core and the reg/rect for the PMA it'd bring the price down. Don't mind me just wondering :D
 
Measuring and mounting a magnet on an older rotor will work fine.....correcting timing differential if any....but you still have the old windings that had a inferior insulation.........and if you don't open the cover for cooling it will not will last enongh enough to really enjoy including a new one unless you don't ride much or are just lucky.................180+ degrees or 130 pick one....ah wtf......:laugh:

xsjohn
 
Naw, John, I like your idea with the gapped cover plate. I got a quad and a motocrosser if I want to take a ride in the dirt and slop. I got the 650 for nice clean street rides, so I am not worried about dirt or water getting in there too much.
 
Ah water hurts nothing.......back from the mountains 150 miles in a torrent last year and never missed lick......I don't even pay attention now after 76 thou even when I wash it....what little bit gets in there just drains out the bottom anyway.....and car alternaters are all open........dirt bikes are definitely something else like you said.......the big thing is 180+ covered and 130 open............

xsjohn
 
Yes I agree with you on that. There are lots of customs with open alts. Plus, if you want to see the real proof, there are these bikes called Minsks from Russia, and you still see them all over in Southeastern asia, places like Vietnam and Laos, running perfectly, and they are 30 years old and drive on lots of dirt roads. It gets so hot over there, and they are made for the cool of Russia, they drill big holes in them, or do the same as you and gap the covers, shit, sometimes they just take the cover right off.
 
I don't ride much dirt roads on mine but I know what you are saying.......the rest of this thing is too hot too.......have you seen what I did............270 cylinders down to 230 in the summer....oh man...........I tell people to just drain the radiator on their car and tell me what it sounds like at 270.............:laugh:

xsjohn
 

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