7/8 internall throttle

[jeepguy]

i know this has been touched on quit a bit. but once again what are the options for an internal throttle set up with 7/8 bars. I think this would be a great oppotunity fo rone of the guys out there making great parts to put a kit together.

 

[Punkskalar]

Been designing one for a while now... Its not as simple as it looks, I can tell you that much. Pretty much HAVE to be CNC'd for several of the small parts to be accurate and work smoothly... Maybe in a few months I'll have a good working prototype

 

[got556]

Hugh...please get that hydraulic clutch done first (sorry to jump OT).

 

[jeepguy]

cool deal i'll be a test dummie..... good talking to you earlier thanks for answering some questions.

 

[Loffer]

Ill buy one, or two. i just used an exile 1" for a triumph project. Nice piece worth the money. I have to make 1" handlebars welded to 7/8' for clipons to use the 1" cause we had no luck finding 1" clip ons we liked , I dont even think we found any 1" clip ons as matter of fact. Not much room in the 7/8 handlebar I guess thats why they dont make em. Let me know what you have when you do, Loffer.

 

[TampaSVT]

Interesting fact.

I bought a set of internal throttle and internal clutch mechanisms this week. Each one came with a 7/8" reducer so they could be used on smaller bars.

Since all of them seem to be for 1" bars, for those that are looking for a 7/8" internal throttle, I think the problem has already been solved...

If anybody needs the reducers, shoot me an IM. You're more than welcome to them.

Rich

 

[Spades]

Rich,
Can you give me some info or a link to the kit you used. Good looking scooter too!

 

[Detale]

I'd be way interested also to know which you bought. Please post a link if you could.

 

[TampaSVT]

I'd be way interested also to know which you bought. Please post a link if you could.

Sure. I went with Biker's Choice on this one for both throttle and clutch return. Both met a few of criteria.

1. Dual needle bearing construction.
2. No return spring. (Because I want to control the roll-back on the clutch side vs it snapping back). And, the VM36 has a pretty strong return on it's own.
3. Under $100 each.

You can see the 7/8" reducer installed in this photo.

Rich

 

[Kups650]

Interesting.....

Page 290
http://bikerschoice.com/catalog

I like that look, i would just need to commit and chop off the bars.....

 

[OakBehringer]

Oh man. Awesome.

 

[BC-IAN]

Tampa, your bike is sick. Just looks clean. What are you gonna do for the front brake? Or have you not mounted a lever yet?

 

[Detale]

Tampa great bike man. I have a few questions if you don't mind. I've been looking at the internal controls for some time now but never saw the bikers choice set before so this is finally affordable. How was the install? did you need anything else to make it work? Where did you bring the cable out of the handlebars? Are you happy with the end result and quality of product? Hows the shifting/ride now? Thanks this is a huge help because I can't find that much info on these.

 

[TampaSVT]

Thanks, guys.

I just finished cutting the bars last night and getting the the set screw holes drilled and tapped. Haven't drilled the holes for exiting the cables or wiring yet. But, I have a similar setup on the Road Star that I did a couple of years ago and absolutely no issues.

TIPS:
They don't ship with the right set screws to mount them in the bars(they're too small). Harbor Freight sells a nice assortment set cheap.
Grease it all up before you Loctite the cables in. You don't want to have to take it all back apart afterwards.

Install is pretty simple. Cut 4" off the bars (I actually cut around 5" since they looked a bit wide to me). If you have a chop saw, it makes for nice clean cuts. Then, measure the distance for the set screws. The one's I have are 1-15/32" from the end. Unless you're a pro, I typically drill a hair deeper and grind the end of the bars until the holes line up perfectly. Maybe a 1/32"-1/16" over. Drill'em too shallow and you're screwed... The grips slide over the set screws and cover them nicely.

One of the things I'm going to do differently this time is the use of 1-1/8" grips instead of tight 1" grips. Because they overlap between the internal mechinisms and the bars, I want there to be a space to allow them to rotate over that point. It's just going to take building up the mechanisms to 1-1/8" so the grips are tight on them, but not on the bars.

Tampa, your bike is sick. Just looks clean. What are you gonna do for the front brake? Or have you not mounted a lever yet?

Front brake is a stock/polished caliper. Looking for a slim master cylinder setup that has at least one button for the horn built in. I don't want to have to drill the bars for a momentary switch.


Rich

 

[tidd1340]

Does it come with the cable?

 

[Detale]

Thanks so much for the info. I may just take the plunge and do this on my new project.

 

[TampaSVT]

Does it come with the cable?

Nope. It'd be difficult to know the proper lengths until you get them installed with whatever bars you'd decided on.


Rich

 

[angus67]

i always wanted to take a closer look at the yama in your avatar. gota fotki or blog somewher we can look at it? I have a 2003 vz 800 suzi. your bike there might give some ideas for it.

 

[TampaSVT]

Angus:

There's a bunch of photos during the build of that one over the past couple of years here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tampasvt/sets/72157615847132560/

I never did a blog on it. But, let me know if you have any questions.



Rich

 

[tidd1340]

Nope. It'd be difficult to know the proper lengths until you get them installed with whatever bars you'd decided on.


Rich

Do these use a special cable?