71' chopper STILL not turning over

If you were to back off the throttle idle screws to where the throttle plates are fully closed, how many turns would that be? Normally, idle screws (the ones that move the lever) would be around 1/2 turn from full close. If you're much more than that, idle circuit(s) may need rework.
 
I bought my first XS Chopper a couple of weeks ago. Didn't start. The XS650 fellers are great, and someone said, 'Charge the battery'. I did and it fired, but it was the Gunfight at the OK Corale for a few seconds then died - sounds familiar? Then the XS fellers said, 'Sounds like you've got old gas in there'. So I drain the tank and the carbs, put in new gas (apparently gas loses its octane-thing and becomes like kersosene, hence the backfiring). Well, started first time, ran a bit rough, but it hadn't been run for five years. It could be as simple as that. Good luck.
 
Bike runs fine now. Carbs are adjusted and she idles beautifully. Still getting crazy motor vibrations and trottle cable is still super touchy. I have the carbs adjusted just as you said Two but mine is about 1 full turn from closed. I know it's not the throttle cable length either because when I turn the bars there isn't any movement on the carbs. Barely opening the carbs by hand from the lever makes the bike rev pretty high...
 
When the idle screws are turned in that far, most of your fuel should be coming from the transfer ports, with the needle jet and slide delivering at the beginning of their influence, itchin to go. Just the slightest throttle movement puts you in the 'cruise' range, the amount of throttle opening the rest of us use to ride at 40-45 mph. Combine this with the spark advance flying to full advance, and you have a throttle response that'll impress your friends.

If you're satisfied with ignition timing and advance mechanism, may look into idle circuit again.
Does moving the idle delivery screw (above throttle shaft) change anything? (normally about 3/4 turn open)
 
Describe what you mean by the delivery idle screw. And do you have any pointers when looking into the idle circuit? Been gone nearly a week and finally have time to sit down and work on her
 
Oh yeah, 'idle delivery screw' is the 'mix' screw on the side of the carb(s). Most `71s have them about 3/4 turns out. While the bike's idling, turning those screws strongly affect the idle. If not, then gotta go thru the idle circuit in the carb (usually blocked pilot jet). The 'carb guide' covers this.

On the other hand, if the 'mix' screws are working, and set right, AND you've never experienced this bike before, everything could be ok. These early models are famous for their 'Explosive' throttle. Give ya that rush we all like. Gotta learn a deft hand on takeoff, you're gonna have a lotta fun...
 
www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf READ it, print it out, READ it.
It explains how to clean your carbs, how the preset the sync and idle mix screws. It has a tuning section that tells you how to test your carbs and what to adjust from the results of the testing.
Oh before I forget, have you READ the carb guide? If not then you should READ the carb guide. Print it out and READ it.
Leo
 
I cleaned my carbs Already before I rebuilt them. Added new needles and floats so I know there aren't any blocked jets or guck floating around inside. The idle screws are set exactly how you explained Two. However I noticed when I quickly give the bike gas with a small crank of the wrist, the motor bogs and sounds like it will shut off. But when I gradually, slowly turn the throttle, the motor revs up ok. Still EXTREMELY EXTREMELY sensitive though......
 
Proba after probs haha. Now when I run the bike I am getting a leak of oil out from the left cover underneath the pamco. Bad oil pump???
 
That's the clutch pushrod oil seal. I replaced mine a few weeks ago and the $^*# still leaks.
I'm getting the one piece pushrod and new seal.
You can buy from mikesXS but MAKE sure you buy two or three as you WILL stuff at least one up.

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No its not the clutch seal. Its the seal and or gasket on the cup that the pamco sits in.

The seal and gasket are easily changed. The camshaft spins in that seal. There is the same setup on the right side housing the advance unit.

Take them off and change the seals and gaskets. But if its coming inside the cup behind the pamco its the seal.
 
Btw the oil pump is in the right side engine side case and is driven by the same gear that drives your tach cable.

Get the manuals out.
 
No its not the clutch seal. Its the seal and or gasket on the cup that the pamco sits in.

The seal and gasket are easily changed. The camshaft spins in that seal. There is the same setup on the right side housing the advance unit.

Take them off and change the seals and gaskets. But if its coming inside the cup behind the pamco its the seal.

Ooh, thanks Do the Ton, if no PAMCO it would be the clutch seal correct?
Im asking because I replaced mine and it started leaking again... havnt had time to pull off the cover to check, but im 99% sure it is.
I dont have PAMCO, actually havnt seen one so you definately know much more about it than me! :)

Cheers,
Peter
 
Hey rattymatty, sounds like you're making progress!
Your description of the response off idle sounds lean. Mine does the same thing in winter till it warms up. If it it persists, may need to check some other things, like air bleeds, diaphrams, rubber manifold leaks, crossover tube leaks, needle jet/tower aerator holes and o-ring, flat floatbowl/body mating surface, enrichner leakage, just to name a couple. Seems like these bikes have graduated into the era of 'creative previous owner' syndrome. Check everything, expect the unexpected.

Your oil leak. If it's inside the cover, it's seal, outside, gasket/o-ring.
When you get the Pamco rotor off, you can easily check cam timing. With engine at TDC, the little index pin in the camshaft end will be vertical, up or down. We just want to be sure here...
 
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