75 xs650

okay thanks I thought about using a bunch of different grits I tried the 60 grit and it wasn't showing any better the black was still there but I will do those steps thanks man and for the carbs yeah I hear you I will disassemble them tomorrow and go from there
 
all those acorn nuts and stuff will polish out if done correctly. they will be prone to rust easily later but good care can keep you ahead of it.
 
The alloy parts on these were polished then clear coated at the factory. You won't get far quickly by trying to re-polish that. You're not polishing the metal, the remnants of the clear coat are in the way. It's best to strip all that off first using paint stripper. The clear coat on your left fork lower has turned all yellow with age. Paint strip then sand with 320 wet to get all the pits and black corrosion stains out. I sand again with 400 wet then proceed to the buffing wheels using coarse black emery compound.
 
Temptation is to do cosmetics first................ Don't..............The bike looks ok so go through it and check the electrics, drain and flush the Tank............. It may start with a new battery, (essential),.................. remove and clean the carbs, set tappets and points and timing. If it runs then test charging system and components.

All connections and bullet connectors, switches and earth connections should be taken apart, checked, cleaned and reassembled. This will give you a reliable resistance free loom that will make everything run to its best efficiency. This will also stand you in good steed when/if you build your own harness.

Doing the above, may give you a reliable run about that can have cosmetic work done in-between rides and it gives you a good working knowledge of your bike. When you get around to hacking on it you will appreciate that knowledge because you should be able to trouble shoot any problems after/during the build and the chances are it will run smoothly as all the work has already been done.

All those rust coated acorn nuts and screws and such can be submerged in ordinary household white viniger. Leave for a week and give them rinse with water and a rub with a steelo pad with a bit of wd 40 and they will come up like new.
 
yeah its starting to get chrome now just need to keep doing it,

also as you guys know ive been trying to get it running like you guys said to do before cosmetics, I put a brand new battery in and no lights or anything come on? and I couldn't find a fuse and I cleaned up the grouns I cant figure it out
 
According to the parts diagram, it appears the one main fuse would be under the left side cover Y'd off from the positive battery cable .....

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Y...B/ELECTRICAL 1 TX650A - XS650B - C/parts.html

The heavy positive cable connects to the starter solenoid and powers just the starter. That small wire with the fuse coming off it sends power to the rest of the bike. If it's missing, that could very well be why the bike is electrically dead.
 
thanks for that diagram, that will help me out I see were the fuse is now, I think I actually went over it and didn't relize I was looking for a square fuse im going to check it out now thanks.
 
The fuse is the old fashioned round glass tube type. That square thing is just the holder, with room inside to carry an extra fuse .....

OriginalFuse.jpg


It's not a bad idea to update it to the more modern automotive blade type .....

PamcoFuse2.jpg
 
hey i think that fixed it there was the extra fuse in there I switched them and cleaned up were it connects and all lights horn ect. works thanks a lot 5 twins, and yeah I might update it to the square fuses.
 
a lot of people just put the bike key on the ring with everything else. Same as the car key. They then can't figure out why the bike and carb switch get damaged. Duh!
I have my bike key on it's own fob. I was at the Utica Harley dealers bike night. I won a door prize, it was a bag of goodies. A V-rod tee shirt some Harley decals and two Harley fobs. I have the key for both the Yamaha's on a Harley fob. Just the bike key, nothing else.
The weight of the fob is plenty. A ten pound ring of keys wears out the switch, thus the key comes out in any position. I turn the bike on, start the bike, pull the key out, put it in my pocket. When I stop I put the key back in, turn it off.
I don't loose keys this way.
Or replace the switch.
Leo
 
Yes, I've followed the one-key-per-fob routine for many years. Lots of the old bikes I get have excess wear around the ignition switch and I know exactly what caused it. I use a genuine Yamaha fob on my 650, only about $2 from a local shop and one of the few things I ever bought there, lol .....

OnIdle.jpg
 
yes I used one key also, looks like on this bike some had a full key ring lol, I cant ever read what it says under the ignition with the light flashing lol it says stop something
 
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