'78se clutch kit options?

[WannabeMike96]

Hey team! I just got my '78se running like a champ (only had to rebuild the carbs 12 times) (only cried 3 times). Took it for a victory lap and it was a good and long one!
I have questions about clutch kits. I'll start off saying that i am not a racer and dont do wheelies or burnouts (boo me i know). This XS is for putting around town and getting my daily fix. I know that the 78's have 7 friction and 6 steel, I didnt take mine it apart yet.
I know that i want to replace all friction and steel plates, I figure id upgrade to 8 frictions and 7 steel, plus springs.

Could anyone on here point me in a direction? Whose frictions and steels? Whose springs? is there anything else that i need? I dont understand the bolt upgrade, please enlighten me!
MikesXS is an option because its a full kit and not expensive. But ive read mixed emotions about his stuff on this site.
I get a whine and feel a slip if i rev a little too high while slipping into first from a stop. No slipping under full throttle while in any gears. i just dont want the clutch to wear to bits into the oiling system.

Just like all of you i love saving money but hate breaking down! (also hate doing the same job numerous times because of cheap parts!!)
Help me out guys this is my first XS!
Thanks!

 

[WannabeMike96]

Also i am sticking with stock cable clutch, dont know if that makes a difference with the kits. Thanks everyone!

 

[XSLeo]

For the type of riding you talk about I think the stock clutch with just a few mods will work fine.
I doubt your plates are bad. About the most damage the fibers get is someone put that car oil with friction modifiers. These oils soak into the fibers and then they are about useless.
Steels last a good long time, unless the clutch slips a lot and excess heat warps them.
On the bolt upgrades, stock ones get chewed up by using the wrong tools to remove and tighten. They are a #3 JIS cross point.
They look like Phillips heads but are not. A hand impact tool, the kind you whack with a hammer not run by air come with a #3 bit that fits well. A few quick whacks and the bolts come lose without bunging the heads. The same tool will tighten them too.
If yours are bunged up, Mike's sells a replacement set of spacers that look like the stock bolts but don't have the threaded part, just a hole through them. The kit comes with new Allen head bolts that fit through the spacers.
I and others have taken the stock bolts and drilled through from the head end, careful to drill straight, Then use Allen head bolts to go through these modified stock bolts. I don't recall the exact length, If too long they will stick out the back of the basket and scrub on the case. What I might suggest is to take the drilled stock bolts and basket to the hardware store with me, try different bolts to find the right length. A bit long is ok, you can grind off what sticks out easy enough.
What I would try first is to tear down what you have. Clean the plates well. Measure for wear. Steels can be measured for warping.
Your repair manual explains the procedures and specs for this.
I would also use a medium grit sand paper sand clean any discoloration from the steels. This will roughen the plates a bit for better grip. While sanding look at the plates, you will see they are stampings. One side if the plates will have a slightly rounded edge, the other a sharp edge. Sand away the sharp edge so it is slightly rounded like the other side. This will let the plates slide in the basket easier. You can check the fibers and sand the a bit too.
A light sand blasting would work on both steels and fibers.
Reassemble and replace just the springs. The stock springs were only around 50 lb spring when new. Probably much less now.
650 Central sells new springs with three different strengths. When your on the phone with him, he will help you determine the best set to use.
If your fiber plates are worn or otherwise bad, you can get used plates off Ebay for not much. I think They are still available new through Yamaha. Most any of the after market fibers are good. I have a set of Forodo plates in my 750 kitted 75. I have a set of 70 lb springs. This combo works well. With a well lubed cable and worm it's a two finger clutch.
Leo

 

[WannabeMike96]

For the type of riding you talk about I think the stock clutch with just a few mods will work fine.
I doubt your plates are bad. About the most damage the fibers get is someone put that car oil with friction modifiers. These oils soak into the fibers and then they are about useless.
Steels last a good long time, unless the clutch slips a lot and excess heat warps them.
On the bolt upgrades, stock ones get chewed up by using the wrong tools to remove and tighten. They are a #3 JIS cross point.
They look like Phillips heads but are not. A hand impact tool, the kind you whack with a hammer not run by air come with a #3 bit that fits well. A few quick whacks and the bolts come lose without bunging the heads. The same tool will tighten them too.
If yours are bunged up, Mike's sells a replacement set of spacers that look like the stock bolts but don't have the threaded part, just a hole through them. The kit comes with new Allen head bolts that fit through the spacers.
I and others have taken the stock bolts and drilled through from the head end, careful to drill straight, Then use Allen head bolts to go through these modified stock bolts. I don't recall the exact length, If too long they will stick out the back of the basket and scrub on the case. What I might suggest is to take the drilled stock bolts and basket to the hardware store with me, try different bolts to find the right length. A bit long is ok, you can grind off what sticks out easy enough.
What I would try first is to tear down what you have. Clean the plates well. Measure for wear. Steels can be measured for warping.
Your repair manual explains the procedures and specs for this.
I would also use a medium grit sand paper sand clean any discoloration from the steels. This will roughen the plates a bit for better grip. While sanding look at the plates, you will see they are stampings. One side if the plates will have a slightly rounded edge, the other a sharp edge. Sand away the sharp edge so it is slightly rounded like the other side. This will let the plates slide in the basket easier. You can check the fibers and sand the a bit too.
A light sand blasting would work on both steels and fibers.
Reassemble and replace just the springs. The stock springs were only around 50 lb spring when new. Probably much less now.
650 Central sells new springs with three different strengths. When your on the phone with him, he will help you determine the best set to use.
If your fiber plates are worn or otherwise bad, you can get used plates off Ebay for not much. I think They are still available new through Yamaha. Most any of the after market fibers are good. I have a set of Forodo plates in my 750 kitted 75. I have a set of 70 lb springs. This combo works well. With a well lubed cable and worm it's a two finger clutch.
Leo

Hey Leo that amazing info i really appreciate the time!! Going to mess around with it this weekend and see if the fibers and steels are salvageable, going to give 650 central a call tomorrow for sure to place an order, thankyou again Leo! ill write back after i open up the case and see what im really dealing with.

 

[Jim]

Partzilla has OEM clutch parts. Would be a tad more than Mikes, but to me having real Yamaha parts is worth a little extra.