Great advice thanks.
And I tell guys to just move the lever very slowly. It's not a switch.
Be slow and reduce possible damage
And I tell guys to just move the lever very slowly. It's not a switch.
Be slow and reduce possible damage
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79F Standard Rescue in progress
- Thread starter member28833
- Start date
Hi 5twins,
FWIW if you swap the innards of a pair of Yamaha vacuum gas taps you'll get 2 manual taps with true OFF positions out of the deal.
You can get a true OFF and keep the vacuum operation by filing off the little nubbin that stops the tap lever from pointing straight up and filing the lever short enough to clear the gas tank. Straight up is a true OFF
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I just had the opportunity to use one of mine a week or so ago. The temps warmed up to near 50 so I took a little ride. The bike had been sitting a good month or so, and when that occurs, I like to switch a petcock to "Prime" for a minute or so to refill the float bowls (in case evaporation has lowered the fuel levels). It turned smooth as silk, which tells me it's still adequately lubed up inside.
Something else I would consider doing during your "wake up" drill is changing those original looking spark plug caps. Throw some NGK 5K ohm caps on there, or if you plan on keeping the points, you can even use the zero resistance NGK LZFH cap. This is a very nice little cap, physically smaller than the resistor ones .....
From the pics, it looks like the plug wires have been changed already but it wouldn't hurt to shorten them a little on each end to get to some fresh wire. I go a step further, stripping off about 1/8" of insulation and fanning the wire strands out in a radial pattern. I think this better insures a good connection at the cap and coil .....
Something else I would consider doing during your "wake up" drill is changing those original looking spark plug caps. Throw some NGK 5K ohm caps on there, or if you plan on keeping the points, you can even use the zero resistance NGK LZFH cap. This is a very nice little cap, physically smaller than the resistor ones .....
From the pics, it looks like the plug wires have been changed already but it wouldn't hurt to shorten them a little on each end to get to some fresh wire. I go a step further, stripping off about 1/8" of insulation and fanning the wire strands out in a radial pattern. I think this better insures a good connection at the cap and coil .....
Great find, Machine! You didn't say if you got the title with it... If you did, and make it roadworthy again, it'll be worth at least 3X what you stole it... I mean, what you bought it for. 
And if you can use all period correct parts, you'll have a great survivor to rip around on... 
You didn't say if you got the title with it... If you did, and make it roadworthy again, it'll be worth at least 3X what you stole it... I mean, what you bought it for. And if you can use all period correct parts, you'll have a great survivor to rip around on...
Absolutely ! Yes, the existing wires are mis matched and damaged caps.
I'll keep the points ignition. It's just as much fun to fiddle with all that as it is to fiddle with vacuum petcocks
Clear title.. It will be very near stock hopefully.
It's going to get my one pair of Standard bars.
I've NEVER made profit on a bike lol..
My job pays the bills. Bikes are just a wonderful bad habit
It's going to get my one pair of Standard bars.
I've NEVER made profit on a bike lol..
My job pays the bills. Bikes are just a wonderful bad habit
OK, after looking at the pics in another thread, I see it - one original plug wire and one replacement. Probably best you just replace both. Your spark plug pic shows one is black. That could be carb related but could also be due to a weak spark on that side caused by a bad plug cap, wire or wire connections. New plug caps and wires (or at least trimming back old wires) is just something I do on all these. It's cheap and often makes them run better.
As you've probably seen me mention, my replacement wires of choice are from the silicone wire kits made for VW beetles. You get 5 wires in the kit, enough for 2 1/2 650s, lol. Cost is around $15 to $20. Just make sure you get the metal core wires, not the resistor ones .....
As you've probably seen me mention, my replacement wires of choice are from the silicone wire kits made for VW beetles. You get 5 wires in the kit, enough for 2 1/2 650s, lol. Cost is around $15 to $20. Just make sure you get the metal core wires, not the resistor ones .....
Something else I like to do is re-use the rubber protection sleeve from one of the original wires. If you look at it, you'll see it covers practically the whole length of the old wire. You don't need that much, just the area that exits from under the tank needs protection. That means one protection sleeve cut in half will do both of your new wires .....
The protection sleeve is glued on the old wire. You'll need to jam a straightened out length of old coat hanger down in there and spray in some WD40 or something to break the glue bond free. There will be remnants of the glue bead left in the sleeve and once positioned on the new wire, and the solvent dries out, it will re-glue itself to your new wire.
The protection sleeve is glued on the old wire. You'll need to jam a straightened out length of old coat hanger down in there and spray in some WD40 or something to break the glue bond free. There will be remnants of the glue bead left in the sleeve and once positioned on the new wire, and the solvent dries out, it will re-glue itself to your new wire.
Yes 5twins, More of those tricks are going to make a world of difference. Fortunately I do have old "bad" 78e parts stashed including good coils & plug leads. Stock bolts, pretty shocks & chain guard, turn signals.. etc.
I've been kinda waiting out this opportunity to use my stash up on another XS Standard .
My 78XSe bike that looks so pretty but dead ended me with charging issues and possible wire harness issues donated a good stash as it got shined up..
I intend to get this 79F running first, learn, and hopefully figure them both out that way.
Super Exciting for spring !
I've been kinda waiting out this opportunity to use my stash up on another XS Standard .
My 78XSe bike that looks so pretty but dead ended me with charging issues and possible wire harness issues donated a good stash as it got shined up..
I intend to get this 79F running first, learn, and hopefully figure them both out that way.
Super Exciting for spring !
It's easy to check the plug caps, measure the resistance through them. I started out with still good originals on my '78 but had to go through a pile of them to find some. Some were bad. When they go bad, their resistance starts to climb, eventually getting so high it begins choking off the spark. And the thing is, the resistance rating to begin with was rather high, something like 8 or 9K ohms. I don't know why Yamaha went with these oddball rated caps but that's what they used on lots of their models. I think that's another bonus of the NGK 5K ohm caps, less resistance. Let's face it, the stock ignition is pretty wimpy. Any little thing you can do to improve it or not detract from it is a good thing.
Hello cafetools , I didn't actually look at the mfg date but I will .
I'm curious about the rear chrome grab rail. Some had em, some not which probably means some frames have the left side grab loop, and the bikes with the chrome grab rail do not have the frame loop.
I'm stripping off Turn signals, Lights, Handlebars, and just "stuff" to get it all sorted before I'm even ready to start it.
Flipped the funny cafe bars over to look and dang, they are ok ..for a different bike.
few progress pics
I'm curious about the rear chrome grab rail. Some had em, some not which probably means some frames have the left side grab loop, and the bikes with the chrome grab rail do not have the frame loop.
I'm stripping off Turn signals, Lights, Handlebars, and just "stuff" to get it all sorted before I'm even ready to start it.
Flipped the funny cafe bars over to look and dang, they are ok ..for a different bike.
few progress pics
Attachments
Bikes are like cars in that the current model year begins production in the Fall of the previous year. So yes, it is possible to have a '79 model that was actually built in late '78. Interesting info tidbit about the frame grab handle. I never even thought of that. Good "tell" for I.D.ing a '79 Standard frame.
Interesting tidbit is that my yellow 79F owners manual has bike pics inside which do not show a chrome grab handle
The other thing that can happen occasionally is that different parts might be used on later production of a given year.
For example, there were at least three different radiators installed on 1982 Honda Accords and you had to know the VIN of YOUR individual car when you were ordering a replacement radiator for it.
The same thing can happen with bikes - particularly when a model is getting close to the end of production (as was the case with the XS650 Standard in 1979....).
Pete
For example, there were at least three different radiators installed on 1982 Honda Accords and you had to know the VIN of YOUR individual car when you were ordering a replacement radiator for it.
The same thing can happen with bikes - particularly when a model is getting close to the end of production (as was the case with the XS650 Standard in 1979....).
Pete
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Does the manual show the frame grab handle instead? I looked at a '77-'79 Standard factory parts manual and they do list a different frame part number for '79. Looks to be a one year only frame, without the frame grab loop I'm guessing.
The Owners manual may show the frame somewhere ? I'll look further later.
I'll find the mfg date too.
No big deal but fun to investigate.
79 was a funny year eh
-R
I'll find the mfg date too.
No big deal but fun to investigate.
79 was a funny year eh
-R
Yes, the end of the Standard era, lol. Mechanically, I don't think it's much, if any, different than the '78 Standard. The differences are cosmetic. But you're in the perfect position to investigate this now. Please keep us informed on what you discover. We love this shit, lol.
Yes, this weird 79F I'll try to keep stock, "as made" petcocks, gauges, handlebars, lights etc .. goofy thing
79F mfg date is 5/78 Owners manual printed 4/78
78E mfg date is 6/77 Owners manual printed 4/77
Pics in these owners manuals are not accurate throughout. Such as 140 mph Speedos in both. Emblems. And yes the Chrome grab rail situation vs the left side frame loop.
