'80 electronic ignition failure. no spark

moker

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I rode the bike 3,000 miles and it started sputtering one day and then shut off at a stop light. I got it started again and it quickly shut off again. Got it home and was getting spark so i charged the battery and it ran for another 120 miles. Then the same issue came back. Sputtering and then nothing. This time i checked for spark and wasn't getting any with a fully charged battery. I've checked all the connections and can't find any shorts. I then replaced the safety relay as it looked very corroded and suspect. I'm getting 12v to the hot wire to the coil when the key is on. Other than that I'm not sure what other components to check because they are all solid state (I believe). Should I just start replacing everything or is there a component that is known for this type of behavior? :banghead:
thanks everyone
 
thats what i was thinking but just because im getting 12v to the coil when the key is on doesn't mean im getting spark when i kick it over. but yes it could be bad
 
I'm not clear on the symptoms. It has no spark and won't start or it won't even crank? I guess I'm assuming you have the electric start going....but you mention kicking it.
 
the electric start never worked unless i ran a hot wire directly to the starter bypassing the starter solenoid. to check for spark i have been kick starting it with the plugs out as you would for any other bike. no spark. its just puzzling that im getting 12 volts to the coil but im not getting spark when i kick it over. at this point i would rather replace the whole ignition system with a new ignitor uint, rectifier/regulator, and coil. are there any other components that could be going bad such as the pulser, cdi box, and pickup?
 
or would it be worth it to do the pamco conversion since this is my daily rider?
 
One of those chicken and egg things but it's always best to isolate the problem before you start buying parts.
This (large) PDF has the electronic ignition trouble shooting tree on page 92
http://www.knucklebusterinc.com/tech/XS650.pdf

Lots of of em swear by changing to the Pamco. So far I have had few issues with the stock TCI on about 6 XS's but the electronics are 30 years old and you never know. Hint when doing the tests for twelve volts consider using a light bulb like a turn signal bulb so you are verifying both voltage and amperage. a lot of times it will look like 12 volts but not be capable of carrying much current due to bad connectors frayed wires missing grounds etc. Check and clean all your grounds.
 
Here's the chart as a jpg
tci.jpg
 
great info gggGary. thanks. and no 650skull i probably kicked it a few times with the plugs not being grounded. would that fry my coil? i've done this to many other bikes (not xs650's) with the plugs not grounded and never had a problem with any other coils.
 
The original fuse panels are worn out and do cause intermittant electrical problems. If your bike still has the original..................time to replace with automotive blade fuses.
 
according to the knuckle busters troubleshooting guide my tci unit is faulty. i am getting 3 ohms resistance at the ignition coil (they call for 2.5 ohms to the primary and 13k ohms to the secondary but im not sure what the secondary ignition coil is). im getting 750 ohms through the pick up coil which is close to the 700 ohms they are calling for. so they are saying replace the tci unit. what exactly is the tci unit? the rectifier/regulator, ignitor unit or what?
 
Primary resistance between the two terminals should be between 0.75 to 0.85

Secondary resistance between a terminal and the coil output should read between 10,000 - 11,000

No such thing as a CDI on an XS650.......... the ignition box is Tci


trying to test for spark when the plugs are not grounded could cause you coils to get damaged.. Note the caution in the page gggary posted
 
A coil has two windings, the primary and secondary. The primary current is controled by the ignition, points or electronic. The ignition turns the coil on, while on it builds a magnetic feild around the secondary. When it gets turned off the magnetic feild collapses, this create current flow in the secondary windings. This curret is what make the spark plugs spark.
Check the resistance from plug cap to plug cap. It should read 23K ohms. The book states just the coil ohms, the caps add 5K each, 10 total + the 13k from coil = 23K These readings can vary + or - 20%
The primary side should be around 2.5 ohms. + or - 10%. Also check from the primary side to ground, and from the plug caps to ground. Should be infinity.
The pick up has two coils inside, both should read 700 ohms. Check from the black wire to both of the other, green and red often have a white tracer.
If all these checks are ok then the TCI box is most likely the culprit. It is a black box about 3-4 inches square and 3/4 to 1 inch thick. It is mounted to the bottom of the battery box. 6 or 7 wires coming out of it.
Some people have had luck fixing the TCI box by resoldering all the solder joints, Replacing the transistor can sometimes work.
Getting another TCI box can be a crap shoot. It may or may not work. If it works it may work for a long time or not.
There are lots of options if your TCI box is bad. There are many electronic ignitions out there. You can even convert to points.
I use and greatly like the Pamco ignition. Not too expensive, easy to install and has several options on the kits. Different coils vary the price. Mike's has the kits. To convert from the TCI too the Pamco you need a kit that has the advancer parts.
 
xsleo- thanks for your help. i believe i have narrowed it down to either the voltage regulator/rectifier or ignitor unit so i think im going to buy the pamco ignition and voltage regulator so i have a mostly new system. thanks for everyone's help. ill let yall know when i get it running.
 
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