A $1.17 brake line vacuum bleeder

weekendrider

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It will work if you want/need it to.
As a plus over the higher $ vacuum bleeders it has a reservoir of fluid to pull from as you pump the m/c handle. It will push fluid from the bottom if your clamps are tight enough.

Now I do have one of the $$ vacuum bleeders. It has a pretty gauge. Hoses. Catch bucket, etc., etc. I tried several hours yesterday to get a dry system working.
As a last resort before I left yesterday I tyed/tied the m/c open some hoping the air would come to the top. At 1:30 am this morning I still squat all for reaction at the m/c.
No pressure at all. A quick trip to the farm store this morning and 1/2 hr later I have very firm pump pressure from the m/c. Dun done and on to other things.

I know you'uns already know this but use plenty of water damp rags to cover tanks, rims anything painted that you want to stay painted.
Brake fluid isn't forgiving and doesn't give a rats rip how much you paid for that paint job.
Probably wouldn't hurt to use eye protection either.
 

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Funny WER, I brought up the survivor 79 brakes today from a full strip down also. Yeah I have a cheapo mity vac. It's a POS but gets r done. I wrap the bleeder threads with some teflon tape doesn't completely STOP the air bubbles but slows them down so the vacuum is pulling brake fluid not air through the bleeder threads. About the second reservoir worth of fluid, I pulled the MityVac shut the bleeder and pumped the pads against the rotor. Now I have lever but a lot of mush. Put the bike on the side stand, bars left, sure that it's all up hill to the reservoir. You don't need to squeeze/tie the handle, actually I think that is counter productive. This is important, WALK AWAY. I usually say overnight but I came back 15 minutes later, job done, hard lever. When I come back I give the brakes a hard squeeze and let go. then wait a few minutes and do it again. That tends to pop any last little bubbles in the MC out into the reservoir. I left it overnight the same way but it was ready to ride.

79 spiffin 007.JPG 79 spiffin 005.JPG
 

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I like the teflon tape trick. I think maybe I was trying to draw too much vacuum with the mighty-vac. And I agree the tying the lever back alittle did nothing.
I do like the fact with the syringe you don't have to worry about sucking air back in.
To be honest I really need to take everything apart for a good cleaning. . . . next time.
 
I've been using the syringe method for years. I bought a mightyvac from harbor freight and it never worked, I couldn't get the res on it to seal and it would just pull air. I returned it and got a huge syringe from a lab tech friend and that's been the easiest/fastest way I've ever gotten brakes bled and full ever since. I use it in both directions, I put a splash of fluid in it and slap some grease on the bleeder and draw on it until I run out of room to pull the plunger back....taking all the air with it. I hold it plunger side up so all the air settles to the top and then pump the lever while watching the air bubble up to the top in the syringe and then let go once they've done that and it draws back in fluid. works awesome.
 
Gary,
I see you have your own box of driveway chalk.
Do you use that to make wiring diagrams before printing the final versions? ha ha ha
My Grand Daughters use that stuff all the time.
 
Good catch; I just went out and bought that! Along with my harbor fright wheel balance stand the chalk gets my wheels spot on. Spin, mark with one color chalk repeat about 5 times, add weight, repeat using a different color chalk for the next round of marking. repeat til the marks are random. Done.
The 79 has "new Michelins" and the front wheel had weights on 4 spokes in a row! The bike still had a light front vibration. We will see if my round of balancing gets it or if that tire is a problem.
Bought stick on weights from MC superstore too. will see if they hang on.....
After couple days of wrenching I might just go draw pics on the driveway today.

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