A ripp'n hardtail bobber build from a seized, desert rat: CALLING ALL DESTROYERS

rear sprocket installation:

after all the blasting / polishing / anodizing / blasting / painting the threads are pretty cruddy:
IMG_4423.jpg


nothing a little chasing won't solve:
IMG_4422.jpg


rear sprocket installed, with bolt locks, chromed hex bolts (may use black ones and will probably polish the sprocket):
IMG_4424.jpg


thumbs up!
 
rear drum brake pads installed:

brake actuator (?) cleaned up:
IMG_4428.jpg


two washer slip onto actuator (?) then slip through drum brake cover:
IMG_4429.jpg

IMG_4430.jpg


felt washer slips on from outside:
IMG_4431.jpg

IMG_4432.jpg


then pad indicator(?):
IMG_4433.jpg


looks at those pads!!!:
IMG_4434.jpg


pads placed with new springs mocked up:
IMG_4435.jpg


i took the pads off, connect both pads via springs, then slipped one pad into place and used the brake cover to hold tension, slipping the second pad into place:
IMG_4436.jpg


brake lever connect from outside, will probably need to be adjusted:
IMG_4437.jpg


thumbs up!
 
the stock drag bars are 7/8" in diameter while the risers I'm using are meant for 1" diameter bars. luckily i came across some spacers that will make up the difference just fine. heres the install:

riser:
IMG_4445.jpg


on half of the spacer installed:
IMG_4447.jpg


polished drag bars set in place:
IMG_4448.jpg


second half of the spacer set in place:
IMG_4449.jpg


top part of riser installed:
IMG_4450.jpg
 
to the future:
Photos of the front bearing installation will come but at the moment i would like to take the time to fast forward and show where the bike currently stands (or floats):

IMG_4466.jpg


IMG_4465.jpg


IMG_4467.jpg


CALLING ALL DESTORYERS is going to be crazy. i can already see how its going to finish which is making me really impatient. I WANT TO GET THIS THING ON THE ROAD ALREADY!

the tank needs some real modification: from the way its sitting on the frame, the interference of the stock petcock, to the bit of rust on the inside, to needing the original pads replaced. its definitely in need of some tender love and care.

BUT! i think its the perfect tank for this build. it ends right where the down tube begins creating a great line in the bike. in addition, my plans for tucking the battery will allow the space under the mono-shock seat to be left very open creating a floating feel for the gigantic 21" rim in the rear.

i can see that the tank, bars, rims and floating seat will create a very sporty feel while having the influence of a board tracker, which is exactly what i was going for!

THE PIPES PLAY A HUGE ROLE IN THIS TOO, which i will address later....
 
rear axel installation:

the first set of photos show the order of spacers, hub, etc which is tough to see when installed in the frame.

the second set of photos is of everything installed in frame minus the chain tensioners...

axel through sprocket side spacer:
IMG_4485.jpg


axel through spacer with hub (sprocket attached to hub):
IMG_4486.jpg


axel coming through hub with drum brake dust cover installed:
IMG_4487.jpg


drum brake dust cover spacer installed on axel:
IMG_4488.jpg


------


IMG_4489.jpg


IMG_4490.jpg
 
while installing my front end i noticed something was off. it became more apparent when i attempted to mock up the front fender. turns out the left fork (sitting no the bike) measures in at:
IMG_4509.jpg


while the right side measures:
IMG_4510.jpg


i immediately took everything apart and flushed the forks at the top of the triple trees. here it becomes apparent just off things are:
IMG_4511.jpg


i was encouraged to try to work the fork to see if it could loosen up. i used the axel to spin the fork while clamped in the triple tree. thankfully this broke things lose and i was able to get the front end installed with the fender.

BUT! while inspecting things i discovered that one of the uppers is totally bent. i will have to replace both uppers. I'm hoping this will straighten things out...

this photo was take directly in front of the bike. you can see just how twisted things are:
IMG_4534.jpg


thumbs down
 
fitting a HD narrow glide fender for xs650:

ill be running a front fender on CALLLING ALL DESTROYERS.
the stock fender is bulky and though I'm confident i could chop it up into something rad it will still be too wide for the thing 21" tire. therefore I've decided to go with a HD narrow glide fender for the front and for the back. this calls for some modifications:

1) i determined how much space i wanted between the fender and tire.
i installed the tire and then put spacers on it, finally setting the fender on the spacers.
notice how there is a gap on both sides between the fender mounts and the forks:
IMG_4494.jpg


2) the stock mount holes are lower then i want based on the spacing I've determined so ill have to move things around:
IMG_4496.jpg


3) this scored line represents the centerline of the new mounting holes ill be drilling:
IMG_4497.jpg


4) width of holes was determined and punched
IMG_4498.jpg


5) pilot holes:
IMG_4499.jpg


6) a step bit was used to get the proper size for the hole:
IMG_4500.jpg


7) i found some spacers are the proper length over at the local hardware store that fit perfectly.i used socket head cap screws to install the fender but will probably swap them for button heads:

IMG_4500.jpg


IMG_4524.jpg


IMG_4526.jpg
 
bobbing a fender:

1) determine how far from forks the fender will reach and score mark on both sides. in this case i went with 4 1/8" from fender mounts:
IMG_4527.jpg


2) i used blue artist tape to connect these score lines together across the top of the fender (not pictured-my bad)

3) next find center point of fender and lightly score mark. i believe this is 2 11/16":
IMG_4528.jpg


4) use a guide to score shape of fender, in this case the roll of blue tape worked perfectly:
IMG_4529.jpg


5) score line around guide

6) next measure a shorter distance from the fender mounting struts to determine where curve will end. score lines and connect using blue artist tape:
IMG_4530.jpg


7) due to the contour of the narrow glide the next step takes some patience. the fender curves down on the sides creating an edge. as a result its difficult to find a guide that is able to continue the curve from the top to the sides. i lightly free handed a few lines in the side of the fender connecting the end of the line created by my guide and where i wanted to curve to end. this took a few attempts but once i got it i made the score line more define:
IMG_4532.jpg



to be continued: this will get lobbed off with a grinder set up with a cut-off wheel and some patience
IMG_4533.jpg
 
after considering the lines i scored for my bobbed fender, i decided to go another route. the stock fender and a much better profile from the side than what i came up with so i chose to do this:

1) cut the end of the fender off
photo-4.jpg


2) used tip as a template for scoring a new end for the bobbed fender
photo-1-1.jpg


3) used grinder with cut-off wheel to slowly outline the scored line then; then cut fender
photo-2-1.jpg


4) then repeat steps 2-3 for the back of the fender

5) file edges and we are done and done!
photo-3-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Brake Anchor Revisited:
The anchor tab is finally welded in place:
IMG_4592.jpg


some adjustment is needed with the lengths of the bolts but otherwise it continues a great line from the frame
 
FINALLY LEANING AND I DONT MEAN THAT PURPLE DRANK:
The kickstand is welded in place and creates a great lean for the bike really showing off those boardtracker-esque tires. i think the springless kickstand is a nice minimal touch...

IMG_4595.jpg


IMG_4597.jpg


IMG_4598.jpg
 
Back
Top