Allen bolt at end of fork

[nobackhair]

Have plan to do Minton Mod for drilling of dampers rods in F.forks. My Clymer manual isn't much help in my opinion as to start to finish of dissassembly. So I did find a video on Youtube that was helpful. I've had them apart in the past but I didn't want to do any uneccessary work. Anyway I'm trying to get that allen nut out of lowest part of fork. Used a hammer drill and it won't give. I tapped it good w/ a hammer and allen shaft that fit to loosen what I'm sure was freezing it 1st but it wouldn't budge. I'm suprized I didn't snap the head off when I tried it manually w/ a rachet. Weary about using torch. Anyone know of a liquid that might dissolve any material that's causing it to freeze? It seems like a safe area to use the torch. Even if I get that bolt off will the damper come out? I forgot to mention these are the 35mm from a 78 w/ the reccessed nut at top. I was assuming the drilling of the damper was benificial as an upgrade to a more responsive front fork. I have new Progressive brand springs to add but, while I have them apart somewhat. It seemed like this was a good step. I'm doing all this because I got new Ikon 7610's for rear. My wt. 150, bike 420. Rear springs were matched w/ damper based on those weights. Mike from 650 central said not to do the drilling anymore. He mentioned he needs to do a lot of updating to his site.

 

[westonboege]

Did you try the standard pb blaster on the bolt? Heating should work ok... There isnt much at the bottom that heating would hurt. They take some elbow grease if they havent been broken loose in 38 years...

 

[lakeview]

I am in the middle of replacing seals today. I just got those bolts out today using my 1/2" air gun.

 

[nobackhair]

Thanks for your responce. Can I get pb blaster at any auto parts or a home depot, Lowes, etc.? I Think I'm going to take it to a bike shop to see if they can do it.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi nobackhair,
an air-impact wrench will shift them. If it busts the heads off instead you can pull the fork's innards out through the top and remove the broken bolts on the workbench.
FWIW, if those forks have never been apart they will be full of all manner of crud and will be the better for a complete teardown and cleanup.

 

[gggGary]

Yes, air wrench, you need either a long pattern allen socket or cut a section out of an allen wrench to make one. Sometimes you need to hold the damper rod with a long tool inside tube the 35mm forks have a 17mm socket down there so a 17mm od nut welded on a long rod will work. I sometimes find blue locktite on the thread making em hard to remove.

 

[5twins]

Yamaha put some sort of thread locker and/or sealer on the threads at the factory so the bolts usually turn out hard the entire way .....

Because of this, I find a holding tool for the damper rod is pretty much always needed. I fashioned mine from a nut welded to a bolt and hold it with a socket on multiple long extensions .....

Once I have the bolts out, I clean the oil and grease off them but leave the factory applied thread locker/sealer on there.

 

[5twins]

I've done the Minton Mods to several of these forks and quite like the results. They do improve the fork action, especially on the little bumps during normal riding. I don't notice much difference, if any, when pushing the bike hard. Maybe that was what MMM was referring to when he said don't bother with the drilling. Another "cheap" upgrade is to use more than the spec for fork oil. This really helps too. I run about 7 ounces per leg instead of the recommended just under 6. These forks just plain work better with a little more oil in them.

 

[Allrounder]

Anybody know the length of the spacer tube that inserts between the top cap bolt and the spring on a 1980 XS650 fork?
Took my forks apart for servicing and found the top cap bolts are not original and some makeshift spacers inside.

 

[azman857]

My '80 SG has the 2 position adjustable tensioner. I don't recall having a spacer tube.