Here is my
Using the electric start first time in the morning. On my 83 Heritage Special, I would wind it over and count 6 turns, (as you know the bike will start easy with the E start if the bike has been running or started at least once ), . then stop if it didn't start............Turn the key off. .........turning the key off for 2 reasons.....
1st; this will turn the headlight off, (headlight will come on when you finish trying to start the motor whether the engine starts or not).........
Also turning the the key off stops the headlight and the ignition system from draining the battery. A key left on drains the battery
2nd; and this is why i don't over wind the engine each time.... running it more than 6 times the battery will start to get drained........By stopping early and turning the key off, and the headlight, it gives the battery a chance to get what they call a surface charge............this is a small amount of charge that is generated when the engine gets turned over but not over used.........If you wait 30 seconds or so then try with the E start again the battery has regained that little bit of extra charge to use up. This is only good for the irst or maybe the second time
Another thing i used to do especially on cold mornings was to sit the bike in the sun out of the cold wind for 20min, or as long as i could, before needing to use it. made starting a lot easier. Surprising how much difference this makes, even if the outside temperature isn't that cold
On the compression test...........i would do it.........If you want to understand how things relate to each other a test could help you. Some have run engines on 100psi as long as both cylinders are at the same, or about 5 to 7 lbs difference. the lowest no less than 100psi.
If the test shows 135, + or - 5-7lbs, (or any where between 120 and 150 is fine), on each cylinder that is fine. 150psi is a good engine and is about what a new build should be.
If there is a big discrepancy between cylinders, 15 or more lbs then that will indicate a problem. If say one was 140 and the other 125 the bike will run but you know that it is going to need to have work done. could last a long time if the bike isn't thrashed and is ridden steady.
With a cylinder discrepancy of 10lbs or more you may find one plug will keep fouling and makes the engine run rough occasionally. Just need to clean the plug occasionally or change it out every so often........without knowing you have a cylinder discrepancy, you could be chasing a charging or carb problem.........
If the bike is an interim while the car is off the road or between cars then it should be ok.
The main reason to do the test, is already mentioned. If the compression is down or off then it could make the bike harder to start or tune. Knowing this will ease your mind and not go searching for problems that aren't there.
If the compression is down you may find the bike uses a bit of oil yet it wont be seen coming out of the exhausts. No need to go searching for other reasons that may not exist.
On setting the tappets/valves
If you have the factory tool kit i recommend using these tools to set the tappets. They are a specialty tool and the factory open end spanners are usually a good fit
Factory tappet tool
I also found a shifting spanner needs to be very good quality. Even good ones have play and if not used properly they can round off the nuts
Using the electric start first time in the morning. On my 83 Heritage Special, I would wind it over and count 6 turns, (as you know the bike will start easy with the E start if the bike has been running or started at least once ), . then stop if it didn't start............Turn the key off. .........turning the key off for 2 reasons.....
1st; this will turn the headlight off, (headlight will come on when you finish trying to start the motor whether the engine starts or not).........
Also turning the the key off stops the headlight and the ignition system from draining the battery. A key left on drains the battery
2nd; and this is why i don't over wind the engine each time.... running it more than 6 times the battery will start to get drained........By stopping early and turning the key off, and the headlight, it gives the battery a chance to get what they call a surface charge............this is a small amount of charge that is generated when the engine gets turned over but not over used.........If you wait 30 seconds or so then try with the E start again the battery has regained that little bit of extra charge to use up. This is only good for the irst or maybe the second time
Another thing i used to do especially on cold mornings was to sit the bike in the sun out of the cold wind for 20min, or as long as i could, before needing to use it. made starting a lot easier. Surprising how much difference this makes, even if the outside temperature isn't that cold
On the compression test...........i would do it.........If you want to understand how things relate to each other a test could help you. Some have run engines on 100psi as long as both cylinders are at the same, or about 5 to 7 lbs difference. the lowest no less than 100psi.
If the test shows 135, + or - 5-7lbs, (or any where between 120 and 150 is fine), on each cylinder that is fine. 150psi is a good engine and is about what a new build should be.
If there is a big discrepancy between cylinders, 15 or more lbs then that will indicate a problem. If say one was 140 and the other 125 the bike will run but you know that it is going to need to have work done. could last a long time if the bike isn't thrashed and is ridden steady.
With a cylinder discrepancy of 10lbs or more you may find one plug will keep fouling and makes the engine run rough occasionally. Just need to clean the plug occasionally or change it out every so often........without knowing you have a cylinder discrepancy, you could be chasing a charging or carb problem.........
If the bike is an interim while the car is off the road or between cars then it should be ok.
The main reason to do the test, is already mentioned. If the compression is down or off then it could make the bike harder to start or tune. Knowing this will ease your mind and not go searching for problems that aren't there.
If the compression is down you may find the bike uses a bit of oil yet it wont be seen coming out of the exhausts. No need to go searching for other reasons that may not exist.
On setting the tappets/valves
If you have the factory tool kit i recommend using these tools to set the tappets. They are a specialty tool and the factory open end spanners are usually a good fit
Factory tappet tool
I also found a shifting spanner needs to be very good quality. Even good ones have play and if not used properly they can round off the nuts