Another "diagnose my mystery noise" post.....

Thanks for the advice guys, really.
I think I can visualize Paul's method, and I do have a wife that can stand there and watch.....

So I suppose I shall buy some heavy oil and try that first. Then if it doesn't I will strip the head.
Since the head will be off, I understand there are certain things I should do. I have pretty coked up pistons and valves, it seems sensible to do something about that.

Again, I am very grateful for the advice.
 
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Yes, it's more than just a little work getting one of these motors out so it's best you do all that needs doing once in there. That could include rings, or maybe a re-bore if cylinder wear is too much, definitely valve guide seals, maybe some valve hand lapping to re-seal them if they leak, usually a cam chain and front guide.
 
Paul Sutton said:
This is such a cool method but I cannot physically do it. Just another useful video courtesy of blimeolriley (AKA Peanut).
Click to expand...
He has big arms and massive shoulders and chest. Average guy cannot do it. It looks like he's acting like it was harder for him than it really was in fact. Even if you can manage to lift 160, it's an awkward and slick shape and then you have to do awkward things with it. To sum up...it's heavy.

I used the lay it on the ground method. Chose your side carefully and remove all the bolts you need to first. You can turn some bolts around backwards if you need to, so they'll come out with the bike on the ground.
 
Re: the sound, I'm with 5T. It doesn't sound bad. Mine will sound different ways depending on its mood and one sound it makes is a lot like the OP's. Hard to judge its loudness from the vid though. When mine does that it's fairly quiet.
 
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Paul Sutton said:
This method can be adapted in so many ways, but remember, the lifting gear including the roof rafter must be capable of taking that 160lb beast!
Click to expand...

As I sit here catching up on the forum when I should be finishing a rigging inspection report, I note that one should also be sure their lifting hardware is in proper orientation. As is, in the preview frame of the first video in comment #20, the hook is being stretched open.
 
Save your back, call a friend! :)
20C7233E-D12E-43DE-8394-D537AAC4D3CE.jpeg
 
Paul Sutton said:
.......a wife standing by giving advice can be a great help when working....
Click to expand...
This belongs in the joke thread....

pulling engines it's all in the wrist

The shelf.jpeg
And um practice, practice, practice?
I'm going to make an engine hoist some day.
 
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5twins said:
but you want more of a "tsk, tsk, tsk ...." than a "click, click, click ...."
Click to expand...

Okay, just went out, stone cold engine and it is quiet, like a muffled whirring. I dont normally listen to it when I first start it up, but it is pleasant. Not like the hot engine noise at all.
So, I guess I do the thicker oil and report back.
I checked the valves and they where spot on .003 and .006.
Could the cold oil potentially hide the front guide clatter?
 
^I would think thick oil could quieten it down in general. When the front guide rubber went on mine, it was a very slight whirring sound that changed distinctly when you tilted the bike, e.g. changed from standing vertical to side stand.
 
Yes, bad guide noises seem to vary. On mine, the rubber strip had come loose for about 2/3 of it's length but hadn't fallen right off yet. Upon start-up, I would get some loud ticking for 20 or 30 seconds, then it would go away. I think the loose portion of the rubber strip was slapping against the aluminum guide base, making the tapping noise until oil got splashed up from below and quieted things down.
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
You *could* do a preliminary inspection of the valve adjuster tips and valve stem ends.
A fun read:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/valve-goes-in-and-out-of-adjustment-randomly.28536/
Click to expand...

Thanks, I had checked these a couple of nights ago as best I could by winding them out, they seem ok with no pitting.
I have a feeling the cam-chain might be stretched and the adjustment by the book is therefore off.
I will try winding it in by hand until it binds a bit, then check the movement with the engine running.

Here is a video of the engine running from cold (14 C this morning) for comparision:

 
sounds great to me.....wish mine sounded that good.
I came across an old video I made several years ago just after I rebuilt the engine it made me realise just how noisy my engine has become .

I'd hold fire on stripping the engine just yet ...Its such a huge amount of work .Why not run it until the summer is over until you're ready to tuck it up in a dry garage. You can use the time to buy up all the parts and prepare .
 
That is a great idea Peanut, I'll put some 20W50 oil in it and take it easy for the next few months, then do the top end over winter, it has done 20K miles so I am under no illusion about it needing a new cam-chain/guide, and the valves are black and crusty. I tried running Forte engine cleaner through it but it hasn't helped.
 

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