Another oil thread

Back 40+ years ago, we'd use cheap straight-weight 30 Pennzoil for break-in after complete overhaul. It had high zinc and little if any friction modifiers, kinda similar to that Amsoil offering.

It was a Pennsylvania crude, which had one of the highest friction values compared to other crudes.
Nowadays, the 'crude source' probably can't be tracked, due to the global oil market, so that's useless knowledge...
 
From a quick scan of the spec sheets I did not see if it was synthetic or mineral oil.

An experienced cam grinder emphatically told me to only use mineral oil with his built up and reground cams.

If you have a reprofiled cam it might be best to talk to the supplier.
 
As far as I know Amsoil only make a synthetic oil.
I would use a good motorcycle oil and only run it for like 50 miles then change it then run it for 100 miles change it, run it 500 miles and change it then go to regular 1000 to 1200 mile oil changes.
Inspect the oil and filters very well for debris. This can indicate if your engine is doing ok.
Don't spend a lot of time with tuning, Just get it close. The first few minutes are the most important period in the break in. This is when the initial wear happens, after that it won't matter as much.
Get it out and run it fairly hard. Start at about 30-35 mph and accelerate firmly, about 3/4 to full throttle pulls, up to 45-50 mph, back off and coast back down to 30-35 and repeat a lot in the first 50 miles. By coast I mean just throttle up and down, don't use the clutch. The loading of the engine braking helps seat the rings.
Leo
 
U can buy zinc additive at most parts houses. I use zddp in my 67 Fairlane to protect my valve seats. Although, I'm sure it's too late
 
Back
Top