"Bang" when unmounting main adjusting nut...

[jayel]

I saw no difference in Mintons than the standard manual procedure of 1/4" back off from contact withthe ball.

not a quarter inch.... a quarter turn

 

[gentlemanjim]

Ya like I said a quarter turn

 

[marp68]

I've now readjusted the clutch according to recommendations from everyone. Have to wait until spring to test it, though.

But one thing though. My main problem is that the clutch starts to engage very far out after releasing the lever. When driving on fifth gear, it doesn't slip though. And there is no more possibility to adjust it by screwing out more the screw at the lever. Maybe the friction plates could be about to run out.

Or what do you guys say about clutches on this model, is it common that it engage very late, that is when the lever is released far out?

M

 

[XSLeo]

The perch is the part that holds the lever and hooks around the handle bars.
Even if the plates are worn you can still adjust the clutch. Thats what the adjustments are for. To adjust for differences in new parts and wear of the old.

 

[marp68]

Then maybe I've already (or PO) adjusted as much as possible. I will probably have to live with the engaging far out. Then the next step is to wait until it starts to slip on fifth gear and replace the plates.

 

[Bear1]

Why wait, if you believe the friction plates are on their last leg and you have 5 months until you can ride again go ahead and replace them. You can get more familiar with the clutch workings at the same time and it gives you something to do over the winter moths. Just a thought.

 

[marp68]

Good thought. I've been thinking so as well. But also that since I've never really used the bike I wanted to wait until next season to get to know the bike first by riding it more, and make all bigger changes next winter. I just wanted to fix necessary things this winter.

But as you say, it's 5 month left... and I need something to do. maybe I will get bored when the bike has been polished and it's still 3 month left...

So far I've:

-fixed leaking petcocks
-fixed leaking float bowl
-changed to new air filters
-repaired/modified shock absorbers
-changed handlebars (tomaselli clubman, had old one laying around)
-inspected/adjusted clutch
-inspected/adjustedchain guide tensioner

More to do
-change oil, check oil filter and sump filter
-fix bad threads on welded shock absorber bolts
-go through the electrical connections
-fix seat (rust, paint, new damping material)
-drill holes in brake plates for my small mc-locker
-maybe change brake fluid (looks transparent and good though)
-maybe change fork fluid
-next winter fix starter (it spins but does not engage engine)
-fix small leak (when running) in front lower engine cover (crank case?)

The engine runs smooth on accelerating, but backfires some when engine braking, so this is also a thing I will try to fix during next driving season. Can be a lot of things. Since I have these Dunstall copy mufflers, this can be the reason. But also air leak, carbs, etc.


m

 

[marp68]

I have adjusted both the main screw and by the lever. However, I have to wait until spring to verify if the clutch engage earlier than before after releasing the lever.

If it still engage far out after releasing the lever, can it be wrong with something else than friction plates starting to wear out? No slipping on fifth gear, though.

m

 

[marp68]

Any suggestions what more could be wrong, besides friction plates and/or bad adjusting, when the clutch engage very late (lever far out)?

m

 

[xjwmx]

If it engages too late and you've run out of adjustment, then maybe your cable is too short? If you try to rock it in gear while slowly pulling the clutch in, you can get a fair idea of where it disengages, without having to ride it.

 

[marp68]

The wire part or the black plastic part around it?

When I turn out the adjuster screw at the lever, the clutch engages earlier (still very late though), but also gets harder to pull in. Then I can't adjust it more out.

 

[xjwmx]

It would be the metal part too short in relation to the black part it that's the problem. I think more length might give you more adjustment in the direction you want to go, if you run out of adjustment. If it's hard to pull, a few drops of motor oil between the metal part and the black part can help. If the cable is the right length, and it's adjusted right at the case, and still no go adjusting at the grip, then all you can do is take it apart and figure out what's up with it.

 

[marp68]

So if all this is correct, the only answer here is that the friction plates are about to be worn out?

Or could it be something else inside the clutch mechanism that would cause the clutch to engage late/far out?

I ask, since I haven't felt any slip yet that would confirm worn friction plates. But since it's not comfortable using the clutch engaging far out (not being able to adjust it more), I'm about to consider, as Bear1 said, changing the plates anyway this winter. As long as the problem can not be related to other problems.

 

[xjwmx]

So if all this is correct, the only answer here is that the friction plates are about to be worn out?

No, I think someone good said you should be able to compensate the change in thickness of worn plates with the adjustments.

 

[marp68]

Yes, you did...

But I've adjusted all that is possible. So besides all adjustments, possible wrong cable size, worn friction plates...

 

[xjwmx]

LOL not me. My man Leo.

"Even if the plates are worn you can still adjust the clutch. Thats what the adjustments are for. To adjust for differences in new parts and wear of the old. "

 

[marp68]

But what if I done that as much as possible...?

As far as I know it will come to point were worn friction plates are beoynd adjusting compensation and the clutch will engage very far out without yet having started to slip. But I'm not an expert on clutch mechanism, so maybe this engaging to late issue could be asomething else than bad adjustments for worn plates.

I would change the friction plates just for getting the clutch to engage earlier, but I want to be sure it's not because of something else that I haven't tried yet or know about.

Hmmm are we talking in circles here...

 

[xjwmx]

Well, here's what I would do at this point. Make sure the adjustment at the case is according to the book. Then make the adjustment at the lever to get engagement where I wanted it. If I run out of adjuster at the lever doing that, then get a new cable. Then once it engages where I want it to, if it's too hard to pull, then lube the cable well. If there's still a problem then I guess I'd have to tear it down and compare every single part involved to the manual. There are some washers and things that can be missing or in the wrong order and etc in the clutch assembly. People here have put up good pictures of how those parts are supposed to go together.


http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4480

 

[marp68]

It does engage well and the engine runs well, no problems with that, but it engage very far out, and no more adjustments can be made (turning the screw out). So I can't adjust it more to engage further in, which is the main problem.

Assuming there's no problem with the cable proportions, my only conclusion is that plates are to be to worn, and soon it will start to slip on fifth gear. Before changing the plates, could something else than solutions already mentioned make it not engage further in?

The hard to pull issue i another issue.

Sorry about going on about this, but I don't want to through away money on changing plates if there's nothing wrong with them... Then I rather wait and see if it soon starts to slip, and then change plates.

 

[marp68]

I've read some of the threads/articles upon clutch mechanism here on the forum.

They seem to cover it all, so when I decide to change the plates or going through the whoel mechanism, I will have som good information on the matter.