Turn it in. You're turning it the wrong direction to get it to engage closer in.
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Turn it in. You're turning it the wrong direction to get it to engage closer in.
Ahaa... 
Before winter storing the bike I tried screwing it in as well with the engine running, but as I recall it, the clutch had problems engaging. But maybe I remember it wrong... I hadn't done the main adjustment by then neither.
I will try rolling the bike on the floor while pulling/releasing the lever with the adjustment screw further in, and see how it acts.
However, I thought that the more I turned the lever adjustment screw in, the later the clutch engages. So if I wanted to have it engaging earlier, I had to screw the (lever) adjustment screw out.
Thanks
Before winter storing the bike I tried screwing it in as well with the engine running, but as I recall it, the clutch had problems engaging. But maybe I remember it wrong... I hadn't done the main adjustment by then neither.
I will try rolling the bike on the floor while pulling/releasing the lever with the adjustment screw further in, and see how it acts.
However, I thought that the more I turned the lever adjustment screw in, the later the clutch engages. So if I wanted to have it engaging earlier, I had to screw the (lever) adjustment screw out.
Thanks
TeeCat
One-Mik Wonder
Tip:
In order to aid in loosening a stubborn adjuster lock nut, get a spare deep socket of an appropriate size to fit the lock nut. At the ratchet end, grind two opposing flats onto the surface that will accommodate an adjustable wrench. Place the socket on the nut. Insert a long screwdriver with a stout (ideally rubber) handle through the canter of the socket and into the adjuster screw slot. Use the screwdriver to hold the screw fast while loosening the nut (counterclockwise). This will prevent cracking/breakage of the plastic worm gear, spring-loaded recoil of the lever, and loss of connectivity between the cable end and its retainer.
TC
In order to aid in loosening a stubborn adjuster lock nut, get a spare deep socket of an appropriate size to fit the lock nut. At the ratchet end, grind two opposing flats onto the surface that will accommodate an adjustable wrench. Place the socket on the nut. Insert a long screwdriver with a stout (ideally rubber) handle through the canter of the socket and into the adjuster screw slot. Use the screwdriver to hold the screw fast while loosening the nut (counterclockwise). This will prevent cracking/breakage of the plastic worm gear, spring-loaded recoil of the lever, and loss of connectivity between the cable end and its retainer.
TC
I screwed in the adjuster screw at the lever to make the clutch engage earlier, which alos made the lever pull/release easier.
I couldn't do it as much as I wanted though. The wire starts to slack to much almost immediately, which causes the clutch not to disengage enough when pulling. Maybe the wire is to long in compararison to the black rubber outside part. It also seems that the wire is drawn back very slowly, as if it wasn't lubed enough. Or perhaps it could also be the spring that is bad or inside mechanism that isn't lubed enough.
I couldn't do it as much as I wanted though. The wire starts to slack to much almost immediately, which causes the clutch not to disengage enough when pulling. Maybe the wire is to long in compararison to the black rubber outside part. It also seems that the wire is drawn back very slowly, as if it wasn't lubed enough. Or perhaps it could also be the spring that is bad or inside mechanism that isn't lubed enough.
It disengages enough if you can sit on it in gear with the clutch pulled and it doesn't move. If you're used to the feel of it the way you had it, the right way might feel strange. On mine there's a place only two or three screw turns wide that puts things where I like them.
Before I take it loose to drop oil down the sheath I measure the distance from the end of the screw to the holder, and just put it back to that measurement instead of having to adjust it again.
Before I take it loose to drop oil down the sheath I measure the distance from the end of the screw to the holder, and just put it back to that measurement instead of having to adjust it again.
I have it winter stored, so no trying until spring.
I adjusted the lever to engage more in the middle, where I want the lever and it's easier to pull. I can roll it forward and backward with a gear engaged and the lever pulled. But it's quite hard to roll though. Releasing the lever engages the gear. But then it's some slack, and the lever and wire are not properly drawn back. And sometimes it doesn't disengage after repulling again. So this means I would have to adjust more to previous position to avoid this happen from time to time.
It's better to wait unitl the spring though, when I can try this properly. But I think I'll lube the wire and check the mechanism inside left cover, so this parts work okej.
Is it possible to remove LH cover without draining oil? And is there any gasket to be careful with? Can't see any on mine.
m
I adjusted the lever to engage more in the middle, where I want the lever and it's easier to pull. I can roll it forward and backward with a gear engaged and the lever pulled. But it's quite hard to roll though. Releasing the lever engages the gear. But then it's some slack, and the lever and wire are not properly drawn back. And sometimes it doesn't disengage after repulling again. So this means I would have to adjust more to previous position to avoid this happen from time to time.
It's better to wait unitl the spring though, when I can try this properly. But I think I'll lube the wire and check the mechanism inside left cover, so this parts work okej.
Is it possible to remove LH cover without draining oil? And is there any gasket to be careful with? Can't see any on mine.
m
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Yes, you can remove the left cover without draining the oil. There's a gasket around the alternator area, not sure how important it is as there's no oil in there. Undoing the clutch cable from the worm gear can be a little tricky, just take your time.
Check for oil leaks around the clutch pushrod and around the forward gear sprocket.
Personally, as long as you're not leaking puddles of oil under the bike, I'd just clean it up good, check the torque on the front gear, heavy grease between the front gear and engine case and button her back up.
Check for oil leaks around the clutch pushrod and around the forward gear sprocket.
Personally, as long as you're not leaking puddles of oil under the bike, I'd just clean it up good, check the torque on the front gear, heavy grease between the front gear and engine case and button her back up.
Okej, great. With the "forward gear sprocket", do you mean the front drive chain sprocket? And grease between the sprocket and the engine case, you mean to protect the bearing?
When releasing the lever, it's drawn back automatically. Is it drawn by the springs that holds the friction plates or the small spring in the mechanism behind the LH cover? If the latter, is it any good way of checking the pressure from the small spring behind the LH cover?
m
When releasing the lever, it's drawn back automatically. Is it drawn by the springs that holds the friction plates or the small spring in the mechanism behind the LH cover? If the latter, is it any good way of checking the pressure from the small spring behind the LH cover?
m
Yeah, front drive chain sprocket. Your descriptive english is better than mine.
Greasing between the sprocket and case helps to slow any leaks and probably helps the bearing though the bearing gets its lube from the engine oil, can't hurt.
I'd say the release is due to any and all of the springs associated with the clutch, more so by the friction plate springs. Don't know about checking the spring tension at the worm gear. I'd say that if it goes "BANG" when you release the adjuster at the side, you're probably OKAY....HA!
Greasing between the sprocket and case helps to slow any leaks and probably helps the bearing though the bearing gets its lube from the engine oil, can't hurt.
I'd say the release is due to any and all of the springs associated with the clutch, more so by the friction plate springs. Don't know about checking the spring tension at the worm gear. I'd say that if it goes "BANG" when you release the adjuster at the side, you're probably OKAY....HA!
Hahaha, yes you right about the bang and spring tension...
Regarding the ENglish, it's tough with all these technical wrods, but we non-English native speaking learn all along the way... One step further...
I'm impressed by you native English speakers, who have patience with us trying to explain...
Merry Christmas to you all
/M
Regarding the ENglish, it's tough with all these technical wrods, but we non-English native speaking learn all along the way... One step further...
I'm impressed by you native English speakers, who have patience with us trying to explain...
Merry Christmas to you all
/M
While the left cover is off check the tightness of the front drive sprocket nut because they work loose if they haven't been tightened in 30 years. There's a tab there to hold it but it just barely grips it really.
So, I've taken off the LH cover. Dirty inside, now cleaned. Clutch mechanism looks and works okej. The worm gear is drawn back by the spring without any friction. But when the worm gear is in the bottom, there is a lot of free play. Correct must be no free play when worm gear is in bottom, right? If I correct it this way, the lever adjusting screw will be screwed almost out and the lever will be hard to pull as before. I have a feeling that the wire is to long. But maybe it's better to wait until spring and check this.
Before remounting the LH cover...
Should I dismantle the worm gear and put grease, or is it okej as is. Now it just feels like there is none. And should I put grease around the whole, now cleaned, clutch mechanism? Nothing mentioned in Clymer though about this.
Before remounting the LH cover...
Should I dismantle the worm gear and put grease, or is it okej as is. Now it just feels like there is none. And should I put grease around the whole, now cleaned, clutch mechanism? Nothing mentioned in Clymer though about this.
Since I have the LH cover off, I might as well clean up the area around the front chain drive sprocket. But I want to remove the sprocket first. Anyone knows the size of the nut? I measured it to 37 mm. Just wondering before buying...
Watch that worm gear, there's a ball bearing in there that can be easily lost. You can grease it. I wouldn't worry about greasing the clutch push rod, should get oil enough from the case.
Yes, grease is a good thing. Unhook the cable and spring from the arm and it unscrews. Pay attention to the way the arm points when you take it out, that way you will get it right when you put it together.
I use a general purpose grease. The same that comes in the tube for the grease gun, I lube the swingarm and any other grease zerks I have.
You don't need a ton, just a good coat on both parts and put it back together. A dab in around the ball will keep the ball in place.
I use a general purpose grease. The same that comes in the tube for the grease gun, I lube the swingarm and any other grease zerks I have.
You don't need a ton, just a good coat on both parts and put it back together. A dab in around the ball will keep the ball in place.
