banshee swap on 1983 heritage special help

deshi

The high tech redneck
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Hello, New to posting here but been reading for a month and learned so much. I am fed up with the stock charging system that keeps failing and leaving me stranded. After reading a lot about the PMA on these forums I am thinking that is the most cost effective solution for me rather than to spend the money to replace parts that will wear out soon enough again. I am thinking of getting the PMA kit on mikesXS and am not sure exactly which pamco ignition setup I need since I currently have TCI. I am not a big gearhead I am still learning and have only had this bike for a month and rebuilt the motor and carbs. Runs like a champ till the darn battery goes low then it start missing and generally runs like a harley, ok I am kidding to harley fans. But just a bit of help on what is the best affordable solution to getting a PMA going since I am on a limited budget, and just need to get this bike going well enough for commuting to work since I cannot afford the gas for my 8cyl car. Much appreciation for this forum.
 
i liked that one as well i just really need to make sure i get the proper pamco ignition for my bike 1983 heritage special pure stock right now. i really love this bike it is a fun ride when its working and i notice the stock charging system really blows since I tend to mope around town in 5th gear to save on fuel i am rarely over 2100 rpm's unless on the highway and im not sure what rpm is acceptable to be at without blowing a head. if i ride higher rpm be it over 3000 then it seems to charge slightly better.
 
The stock charging system is a good system if properly maintained. It won't charge well around town, the low rpms and using the brake lights and turn signals draws down the battery faster than out on the highway at higher rpms.
A PMA will act the same.
Converting the brake/tail light and turns to LED's will help more than going to a PMA. The tail light has two bulbs, the tail light draws 8 wattsx 2 bulbs is 16 watts, the brake light draws 27 x2 = 54 watts, The turns are two 27 watt bulbs plus a 3 watt indicator bulbs, so 27x2+3= 57 watts.
So every time you slow down to turn using the brakes and turn signals, plus the headlight you are drawing 16+54+57+40 for the stock low beam=167 watts. 167 watts devided by 14.5 volts gives you 11.5 amps of draw. The charging system puts out 11 amps at 2000 rpms.
So around town you are using about the same current as the alternator puts out. Not leaving much for charging.
Replacing the brake/tail light and turns with LED's your current draws is about 1 watt or less for the LED's + the 40 for the head light. so about 41 watts is about 2.8 amps.
11.5 amps versus 2.8 amps. Which do you suppose will help charge the battery.
On your 83 there are not to many things to go wrong with your alternator. I don't know what testing you have done but testing to determine just what is wrong then fixing what's wrong is the best way to a charging system that works.
It might be as easy as cleaning a few connections, that's free, to replacing some parts.
Up at the top of the page find the XS650 TECH button, this leads you to a list of threads dealing with all sorts of problems.
Scroll down to the electrical section, find the thread titled How to Diagnose Charging System Problems (charging system guide)
Go through the steps.
Fixing your system will be much cheaper than replacing it with a PMA and New ignition.
Leo
 
Thanks LEo that helps me out a bit. As for the charging system tests I did all of the tests on Curly's guide and they all come back ok. My father in law is a mechanic with a shop so that helps me a bit with tools and labor on some things. we did replace the reg/rec as that was bad when I first got the bike a month ago. The bike also sat for about 15+ years. I sure will save amps by switching to LED i didn't even think of trying that. can I get a low watt headlamp as well? And where is a good place to get LED stuff? Thanks again.
 
Just an update quickly I have been trying to keep the rpm's over 3k in hopes it will better charge and so far so good. Before my daily ride voltage at battery was 12.5 usually after a ride maintianing about 2.5k rpm's i come back to about 9v and this time it was at 12.5 on returning back after a 60 miles jaunt in the forest. So far things are looking up. I still would like to get the LED tail light I saw a couple on mikesXS not sure if those are plug in play or not since they do not have much information in the product description. and 50 bux to swap all the signals and tail light is much better than swapping the charging system.:thumbsup:
 
i get my LED's from superbrightleds.com.
Get there motorcycle flasher. The stock one won't flash with LED's. Item LF1-S-flat. Remove the wires from the plastic and they plug right in where the stock flasher goes. Hook the red wire to where the brown wire in the socket, the black to the brown/white.
This is a two wire flasher and using it deletes the self canceler. No problem, just remember to turn the signals off.
The stock headlight is about the lowest wattage out there, unless you want to try a HID headlight.
Leo
 
The stock charging system is a good system if properly maintained. It won't charge well around town, the low rpms and using the brake lights and turn signals draws down the battery faster than out on the highway at higher rpms.
A PMA will act the same.
Converting the brake/tail light and turns to LED's will help more than going to a PMA. The tail light has two bulbs, the tail light draws 8 wattsx 2 bulbs is 16 watts, the brake light draws 27 x2 = 54 watts, The turns are two 27 watt bulbs plus a 3 watt indicator bulbs, so 27x2+3= 57 watts.
So every time you slow down to turn using the brakes and turn signals, plus the headlight you are drawing 16+54+57+40 for the stock low beam=167 watts. 167 watts devided by 14.5 volts gives you 11.5 amps of draw. The charging system puts out 11 amps at 2000 rpms.
So around town you are using about the same current as the alternator puts out. Not leaving much for charging.
Replacing the brake/tail light and turns with led lights your current draws is about 1 watt or less for the LED's + the 40 for the head light. so about 41 watts is about 2.8 amps.
11.5 amps versus 2.8 amps. Which do you suppose will help charge the battery.
On your 83 there are not to many things to go wrong with your alternator. I don't know what testing you have done but testing to determine just what is wrong then fixing what's wrong is the best way to a charging system that works.
It might be as easy as cleaning a few connections, that's free, to replacing some parts.
Up at the top of the page find the XS650 TECH button, this leads you to a list of threads dealing with all sorts of problems.
Scroll down to the electrical section, find the thread titled How to Diagnose Charging System Problems (charging system guide)
Go through the steps.
Fixing your system will be much cheaper than replacing it with a PMA and New ignition.
Leo
Good information LEO.. I think I will implement some of the above provided tips and will share my experience soon.. Thanks again
 
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TruckLite makes a 7" LED headlamp that is brighter than most halogen lamps, at 1/3 to1/2 the amperage. Not sure of the cost, but expect $200-$300.
 
yeah i seen some of those led headlamps and they are all out of my price range till i can find full time work again. right now popping my bike on a charger when not in use seems to solve the issue and i just kick start to save on juice as well.
 
Ebay is your friend in this situation. You can get LED tail/ brake lights for a few bucks and LED turn signals for a few more plus the relay. I got four led turn singals, the flasher relay and LED taillight bulbs for about $25 shipped on Ebay.
 
not bad at all i am able to get the led signal lights and stuff cheap but the headlamp is another story. i would rather the charging system work but for now good old trickle charger to the rescue to at least get to day labor.
 
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