Battery posetive cable

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Hey y all

I finally got my "basket case" running the other day..."new" ignition coils did the job. But not without problems. The carb overflowed and leaked out my right pod filter...and also into the crankcase/cylinder which caused a massive bang/backfire...and she is dead. I have already cleaned out the carbs, but off it goes again. I found the right floater needle to have stuck ( the moving part inside the needle).

The PO got rid of the electric starter and pretty much everything els. There is no fuse box, only a single inline fuse holder via the posetive battery cable...and it was only 3amp so needles to say the fuse blew.

My maine concerne is the battery cables that are a very thin gauge. I have ordered the original cables. The neg is simple enough, but I'm having problems with the posetive cable. I have done my research and info is very hard to come by...probably because it's very simple...I am not very good with electric's...ever since my father beat the shit out of me for causing a "blackout" in our house at age 7... I have stayed away from all electrical.

So here is my problem: The original posetive cable goes where? I think it should go to starter solenoid, but what to do with it since I don't have one. There is a smaller gauge cable conected to one end of the cable. Would this normally go to fuse box?

I would really appreciate your feedback...and if you think I must be an idiot for posting such a "simple" question...well that is fine with me, as long as you will let me borrow your brain for a moment.

Maybe I got this dumb because of all the beatings...thanks dad! :thumbsup:
 
without the starter solenoid, the positive wire from the battery goes through a 20amp fuse, then, proceeds to split and travel through one wire to the key(ignition) and through another wire to the rectifier/regulator. had similar problems with mine and it took a lot of foolin to get it right
 
hey XS80cafe

Thanks for your response. Are you running one single inline fuse as well vs 4 fuses/a fuse box? I have replaced the 3 amp with a 15amp, but I am weary why someone whould put in a 3amp in the first place...unless the PO were afraid of some other shorting possibilities and wanted to protect other electrical components.

My posetive wire is a very thin gauge wire and a couple of inches after the battery terminal it goes to the inline fuse holder-the other end of the fuse holder holds a similar thin red wire that splits and goes to rectefier and ignition - I don't know how to post pics...yet, but I hope you can imagen a mental picture of my set up.

My question is, how can I use the thicker original posetive battery cable? I can imagen that I could connect the inline fuse to the thinner gauge wire, but what do I do with the other end of the thicker original posetive cable?
 
On all the years that used just one fuse it was a 20 amp fuse. Even after they went to 4 fuses the main fuse was a 20 amp. The other three fed off the main fuse and were 10 amp fuses.
Leo
 
Thanks Grinder, you just took a heavy load off my shoulders.

Hey XSLeo. XS80cafe suggested 20 amp also. During my research I learnt that it could be a good idea to start with 10amps..then 15amp and 20amp...in order to protect other electrical components in case there is a short somewhere.
Is it possible to hook up a couple more inline fuse holders, and if so, where would be a good place?

Thanks for your feedback guys. Really appreciate it
 
Try this. It's a good diagram and shows just how to wire up a bike. Just plug in the parts you have.
If you look just below my responce you will see my signature. In my signature you will see my bikes year, model and mods. You might want to do the same, just put in your bike info. That way we won't have to guess what your bike is.
 

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Thanks XSLeo, for taking the time to send the diagram. I have found some great diagrams on this forum before...but every time I try to break them down...it's like reading Greek...sort of. But I prommise I will take a good look at yours. Thanks again!

Hey Maddog Marty! I took your advice and upgraded my profile (still learning). So, if there is anyone in my neck of the wood, I would love to hear from you...and don't worry, I have lived in vegas long enough to know that nothing comes for free...

Happy biking guys
 
Yes no need for the big wire on either side with no electric start 12 gauge primary wire should be all you need, that is sized for 20 amps which is more than your simplified bike should draw. But a 20 amp fuse should protect just fine against the dangers of shorts. Don't let me stop you if you want to split off a sub fuse for the lighting circuit. Especially with a home made wiring loom it is nice if a short in the headlight wiring say doesn't have you pushing the bike home. Heres hoping your dads "beatin" was because he was worried you would hurt yourself!
 
gggGary said:
Yes no need for the big wire on either side with no electric start 12 gauge primary wire should be all you need, that is sized for 20 amps which is more than your simplified bike should draw. But a 20 amp fuse should protect just fine against the dangers of shorts. Don't let me stop you if you want to split off a sub fuse for the lighting circuit. Especially with a home made wiring loom it is nice if a short in the headlight wiring say doesn't have you pushing the bike home. Heres hoping your dads "beatin" was because he was worried you would hurt yourself!
Click to expand...

Great gggGary! Grinder took the monkey off my back, but to have you (another respected member of this forum) validate the cable issue...was just like a fathers hands on your shoulders, telling you it's gone be OK...insted of a good ass wooping:laugh:
Like all 7 years old ending up on a bike later in life...we probably all did something that truly validated a good spanking...but too much of a "good" thing is never good:thumbsup:
 

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