So, I've had my bike tuned and running awesome for about a month. I actually work at a bike dealership (which actually means I have almost no time for my own bikes). It runs fantastic on the dyno and off, unless of course you need to stop. I cannot hit neutral and I cannot get the damn clutch to disengage so I can't even just clutch in at stops. I've adjusted and cleaned the worm gear. The Ball bearings are in there, I've even tried shim'ing the shift rod by adding a 3mm valve shim to the end and I still cannot get the damn thing to a point where I can ride it. I bought the hydraulic clutch conversion but the stupid clutch portion leaks even with new crush washers or o-rings so that conversion is out. I'm running out of riding season and ideas and I could really use the help.
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Bike Runs Great, Unless You Need to Shift or Clutch In
Since you probably already know all about the XS clutch setup, how 'bout some oddities:
1 - If using 1-piece clutch rod, check that ends are square and that the rod is perfectly straight. Long ago, mine was slightly bent, straightened it, made a world of difference.
2 - Never heard anyone recommend checking the double-row mainshaft bearing, behind the clutch. That's where all the disengagement load goes, and ball bearings don't like side loads.
3 - Although unlikely, watch the left cover during actuation, see if it bulges/displaces.
1 - If using 1-piece clutch rod, check that ends are square and that the rod is perfectly straight. Long ago, mine was slightly bent, straightened it, made a world of difference.
2 - Never heard anyone recommend checking the double-row mainshaft bearing, behind the clutch. That's where all the disengagement load goes, and ball bearings don't like side loads.
3 - Although unlikely, watch the left cover during actuation, see if it bulges/displaces.
you don't say if you built the clutch or if it was already in the bike or if the problem is worse when it is hot. have you changed the push-rod? what year/model is your bike/motor. All these factors can make a difference to diagnostics.
Some history please.
Some history please.
1975 XS 650B, left side doesn't bulge, the rod is straight and the ends seem pretty square. Right side off things appear to move as they should (of course my experience is limited since this was my first build), its the one piece rod. As far as hot or cold, its about the same honestly. Bike off it doesn't operate as it should, run it for 5 minutes and it still doesn't, run it for 10 minutes and it still doesn't. I didn't expect the clutch to be what keeps me off the road after a complete rebuild, its quite frustrating.
Sounds like there might be too much stiction in the clutch pack.
With the right cover off, clutch lever pulled in, confirm that pressure plate moved outward about 2mm, and while held out, with transmission in 5th gear, have someone rotate rear wheel, both ways, while you're observing clutch pack. See if the plates separate a little and slip.
While still holding clutch lever in, gently pry some separation between fiber fingers, move rear wheel again. Should move freely. Then let lever out and pull lever back in, and repeat wheel turn test.
If it's still sticking too much, need to pull the plates, see if the plates, fibers and steels, are polished/glazed.
You can resurface the plates by gently sanding on a very flat surface with 320-400 wet-or-dry. Clean, oil, reassemble, and try again.
I don't know about current clutch materials, but have run into questionable fiber discs long ago. Some were extremely hard, some too soft (easily dented with fingernail), some would slip too much, some wouldn't release (stiction).
Had excellent results with Barnett discs, back in the day, on various bikes. Good release, good grab, didn't need extra-pressure springs. The clutch material is very important. Lots of posts here about clutch problems, and wondering if there's a quality issue here...
With the right cover off, clutch lever pulled in, confirm that pressure plate moved outward about 2mm, and while held out, with transmission in 5th gear, have someone rotate rear wheel, both ways, while you're observing clutch pack. See if the plates separate a little and slip.
While still holding clutch lever in, gently pry some separation between fiber fingers, move rear wheel again. Should move freely. Then let lever out and pull lever back in, and repeat wheel turn test.
If it's still sticking too much, need to pull the plates, see if the plates, fibers and steels, are polished/glazed.
You can resurface the plates by gently sanding on a very flat surface with 320-400 wet-or-dry. Clean, oil, reassemble, and try again.
I don't know about current clutch materials, but have run into questionable fiber discs long ago. Some were extremely hard, some too soft (easily dented with fingernail), some would slip too much, some wouldn't release (stiction).
Had excellent results with Barnett discs, back in the day, on various bikes. Good release, good grab, didn't need extra-pressure springs. The clutch material is very important. Lots of posts here about clutch problems, and wondering if there's a quality issue here...
