-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Brass sealing washers
- Thread starter sethhazuga
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build engine restoration
Or this if you can wait
note MANY sizes thicknesses available.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15pcs-M8-C...639711&hash=item56a512cbd2:g:dnMAAOSwsFpaC5U9
note MANY sizes thicknesses available.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15pcs-M8-C...639711&hash=item56a512cbd2:g:dnMAAOSwsFpaC5U9
Cafe Murdock
Murdock
So how would i go about reusein my oem washers
Why would you want to ???? The whole purpose and point here is to get rid of those things. The nuts won't stay tight with them because they're too soft. I guess if you don't mind re-torquing your head every few months then go ahead, put 'em back on, lol.
Has the engine been apart?
This is what I've been using. The 22mm O.D. is the same as the brass washers Mike's sells and although they're only about 2mm thick, they fit and work fine so far .....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Multiple-T...var=453372990672&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
..... and a little over 30 cents each sure beats the $3.25 each price Mike's charges for their brass ones, lol.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Multiple-T...var=453372990672&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
..... and a little over 30 cents each sure beats the $3.25 each price Mike's charges for their brass ones, lol.
These brass washers don't conform to irregularities the way a copper washer tends to on a drain plug. They're quite a bit harder than that. I think the rubber coating on OEM was an attempt to make a washer hard enough to hold the head on, while giving real sealing. The rubber coat is thin. It wouldn't need to be thicker than expected irregularities. Personally, I think an uncoated steel washer would work there. I don't think you would see any leaking unless the bike was upside down.
The rubber coating on the originals is thin on top but rather thick on the bottom, sealing side. It squashes out after a while and the nuts get loose. You may be right about brass being too hard. I tried some brass ones from McMaster-Carr and they leaked. So now I stick with the copper ones, they've always worked for me.
That set from Hoos is a simple solution I guess, if you're a financial idiot, lol. Why pay near $20 for 8 washers when you only need 4??? And even if they were sold as 4 packs, why pay $9 when you can do the same job for about $1.25? And I never understood why some insist on changing all 8 washers. The inner 4 don't need to be seal washers, there's no oil flowing down their studs. Some say because they want all the washers to match. Huh??? Those inner 4 are totally covered by the frame, top motor mounts, and gas tank - YOU CAN'T SEE THEM. OK, rant over, lol.
That set from Hoos is a simple solution I guess, if you're a financial idiot, lol. Why pay near $20 for 8 washers when you only need 4??? And even if they were sold as 4 packs, why pay $9 when you can do the same job for about $1.25? And I never understood why some insist on changing all 8 washers. The inner 4 don't need to be seal washers, there's no oil flowing down their studs. Some say because they want all the washers to match. Huh??? Those inner 4 are totally covered by the frame, top motor mounts, and gas tank - YOU CAN'T SEE THEM. OK, rant over, lol.
