-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Brembo Caliper w/Motolanna Rotor Spacer
- Thread starter figure8
- Start date
I know this video doesn't make it easy to tell, but my rim appears to have a nice "hop" in it. The same rim I paid good money to have trued and tire installed and balanced. I've pinpointed it to one spoke that hits, I could shave a little more off the caliper but I wanna hold off if this rim needs attention first.https://vimeo.com/163786674
I can't see it. But perhaps if that "high spoke" is gently persuaded a touch with a block and hammer.... If the spoke forming or nipple hole alignment isn't perfect they can bow out a bit. I've been building and truing rims this year and find many/most? (stock and aftermarket) have a slight hump at the joining weld, it happens.
Not sure if there is an "accepted" minimum tolerance between spokes and calipers. Wheels aren't 100% rigid when on the road.
Not sure if there is an "accepted" minimum tolerance between spokes and calipers. Wheels aren't 100% rigid when on the road.
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
My stock rim has that slightly misaligned rim weld too as Gary mentions. It didn't affect my spokes though. Check out what Gary suggests for aligning that one spoke.
I would also go around your whole wheel and tap the spokes in mid-span to see if they all sound the same. Loose spokes will have a lower pitch than the properly tightened ones.
I would also go around your whole wheel and tap the spokes in mid-span to see if they all sound the same. Loose spokes will have a lower pitch than the properly tightened ones.
Yeah, take a good look at it, is it bowed out? You wouldn't want to kink it but some outer spokes aren't bent enough at the head causing them to bow out. It's more likely to be a problem at the rear where the steeper spoke angles cause interference with the flange.
You can see where I had to put a bit of a bend on these rears on a TX750 hub. look at the hub upper right.
View attachment 61158
You can see where I had to put a bit of a bend on these rears on a TX750 hub. look at the hub upper right.
View attachment 61158
View attachment 61165
I used the end of a 2x4, on this wheel the goal was shaping the spoke over the ridge line on the hub. You want to be certain you do not create a kink anywhere in the spoke. It doesn't take that much to straighten a spoke that's under pressure. Recheck tension after you "adjust" it.
After
View attachment 61167
The factory spokes on that wheel.
View attachment 61166
I used the end of a 2x4, on this wheel the goal was shaping the spoke over the ridge line on the hub. You want to be certain you do not create a kink anywhere in the spoke. It doesn't take that much to straighten a spoke that's under pressure. Recheck tension after you "adjust" it.
After
View attachment 61167
The factory spokes on that wheel.
View attachment 61166
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Good pictures and explanation Gary!
Glenn, got my spacing spot on, caliper clears spokes well and repainted back side of caliper. Put everything back together and put some brake fluid in the MC. I've got the pads engaging against the rotor, but I'm getting some rubbing when letting go of the lever. Also not feeling much pressure when pulling the lever. What MC are you using with yours?
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Hi!
Sounds like you're making good progress!
Did you bleed the brakes well? Does the handle stop short of the bars with good hard resistance? If it feels spongy, you should bleed them again. One trick I most often do now is after I bleed the brakes, I wrap a cord around the brake handle and the handlebar and let it set overnight. This puts constant pressure on and bleeds the air bubbles out.
I have one of Hugh's master cylinders and it works well (http://www.hughshandbuilt.com/product/hhb-slimline-master-cylinder/. I checked the attached chart from Mike Morse and got a hold of the specs for the Brembo caliper. I also found that the stock master cylinder is about 14mm. For the two cylinder Brembo, it is best to have about a 13mm bore. I'd bleed your brakes well and see how the stock one feels to you first.
http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8924&highlight=brembo+caliper+bore+gold
With this combination you get a Brembo Piston to MS ratio of 24 1/3 to 1.
Brembo 30/34 Caliper
30 X 2 706.8583471 mm^2 per cyclinder
34 X 2 907.9202769 mm^2
Total area is 3229.557248 mm^2
13mm Master cylinder area is 132.73 mm^2
Ratio is 24.33 to 1
With new brake pads and disk, you will get a little bit of drag until things wear in a bit, say maybe 50 to 100 miles or so. I'm talking about a little scraping noise when you're pushing the bike around and not a real heavy drag on them.
Sounds like you're making good progress!
Did you bleed the brakes well? Does the handle stop short of the bars with good hard resistance? If it feels spongy, you should bleed them again. One trick I most often do now is after I bleed the brakes, I wrap a cord around the brake handle and the handlebar and let it set overnight. This puts constant pressure on and bleeds the air bubbles out.
I have one of Hugh's master cylinders and it works well (http://www.hughshandbuilt.com/product/hhb-slimline-master-cylinder/. I checked the attached chart from Mike Morse and got a hold of the specs for the Brembo caliper. I also found that the stock master cylinder is about 14mm. For the two cylinder Brembo, it is best to have about a 13mm bore. I'd bleed your brakes well and see how the stock one feels to you first.
http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8924&highlight=brembo+caliper+bore+gold
With this combination you get a Brembo Piston to MS ratio of 24 1/3 to 1.
Brembo 30/34 Caliper
30 X 2 706.8583471 mm^2 per cyclinder
34 X 2 907.9202769 mm^2
Total area is 3229.557248 mm^2
13mm Master cylinder area is 132.73 mm^2
Ratio is 24.33 to 1
With new brake pads and disk, you will get a little bit of drag until things wear in a bit, say maybe 50 to 100 miles or so. I'm talking about a little scraping noise when you're pushing the bike around and not a real heavy drag on them.
Last edited:
Apologies in advance for the crappy video. The lever feels good now after bleeding again, feeling like I got all the air out. Not sure if this is the type of rubbing your referencing, and I hope I'm not damaging this rotor.
https://vimeo.com/164906112
https://vimeo.com/164906112
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
Sounds fine to me if you have new pads and of course the rotor.
Any plans to contact Motolanna on a thicker spacer? I bet if they made it, they could get quite a few sold.
Glenn
Any plans to contact Motolanna on a thicker spacer? I bet if they made it, they could get quite a few sold.
Glenn
I haven't decided my course of action yet. I have a buddy in Texas who's offered to machine an additional spacer for me. Though ultimately I understand the one piece spacer would be best. In all I needed a little more "push" than you did, 13mm ended up being the spot for me. Thanks again for all the help!
Also, did you use Teflon on your bleeder valve? Mine was already a little chewed up and it's weeping fluid a tad. I'm gonna replace it, I'm thinking it might be an M6?
Also, did you use Teflon on your bleeder valve? Mine was already a little chewed up and it's weeping fluid a tad. I'm gonna replace it, I'm thinking it might be an M6?
glennpm
Another Old Biker Nut!
A full contact spacer would be fine.
BTW Hugh's MS has a 13mm bore and the numbers I've added to post #32 above. good feel for me.
BTW Hugh's MS has a 13mm bore and the numbers I've added to post #32 above. good feel for me.
Bump for Mexiwop....
Keep in mind your gonna need a spacer with a lip on it, the rotor will not be resting on the hub as with stock.
Here's the one I used
http://www.motolanna.com/ourshop/prod_3022255-Brake-Rotor-Spacer-10mm-Yamaha-SR500-SR400.html
Keep in mind your gonna need a spacer with a lip on it, the rotor will not be resting on the hub as with stock.
Here's the one I used
http://www.motolanna.com/ourshop/prod_3022255-Brake-Rotor-Spacer-10mm-Yamaha-SR500-SR400.html
Mexiwop
XS650 Enthusiast
thank you, so it looks like i should be between 12mm to 13mm on my spacer. the search for material starts, and ill try to machine the rotor lip on my atlas/craftsman lathe.
