Broken Intake manifold bolt

ckahleer

XS650 Addict
Messages
173
Reaction score
273
Points
63
Location
Glen Allen, VA
This bolt broke while removing carbs today. It's stuck so tight it broke instead of turned. I'm thinking of making a screwdriver slot in it and heating the area with a propane tourch.
Any other suggestions before I get started?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220623_205703160.jpg
    IMG_20220623_205703160.jpg
    216.5 KB · Views: 51
Got access to a tig welder?
Weld an old flat tip screwdriver to it and use vise grips. The heat from the tig helps.
 
I agree with trying your plan first, a cut off blade in a dremel is excellent for this. Often after the head busts off, the remaining screw just unthreads.
Anytime a screw doesn't want to thread out, stop! Try tightening it a bit, then go back to loosening. if it starts to bind on the way out, same thing, use lube, turn back in a ways, then start loosening again, repeat as needed.
 
Once you get that one out, thoroughly anti-seize the new bolts so something like this doesn't happen again .....

ManifoldMountsClean.jpg
 
Agree with Jim.

Never did it on an XS650 but had to take a hand full of broken studs out of a Cat diesel one time at work. I brought in my little 120 volt wire feed Lincoln welder in from home and had at it. Some took a few tries but got them all out. I'm far from a welder so that says something!

I think I would poke a wet paper towel in the ports and maybe cover the gasket surface with duct tape.

As aluminum expands faster than steel that should help to. Like some one said if it don't turn easy one direction try turning the other way a little. If you get even a little movement use some good penetrating oil and work back and forth and it should come out.
 
Or next place a nut over it, aim your mig wire inside the nut at the bolt end, fill the cavity. Usually a wrench will thread it right out.
Gotta say this method was fail for me on an XS650 exhaust stud. I did manage to drill n drill n drill then chase out the remains of the stud with a tap.
Getting a drill bit started and keeping it centered and going straight down the bolt is NOT easy. Get off just a little and it heads quickly into the softer aluminum.
Had one in a Honda head I took to a shop with EDM
I also have an early head with an exhaust stud hole thoroughly fuggled by a PO.
 
The only welder I have access to is an old AC stick welder. Can this be used to weld the nut to the stud?
Also, as you can see in the photo, without the carburetors, there is room to work. What are my chances of getting this bolt out without removing the head?
 
I'd say your chances are pretty good. I'd cut a slot in it, start soaking it with penetrating oil, and apply heat (heat gun) multiple times. I know many frown upon them but an EZ-out may work as well if the screwdriver slot fails. But I'd do the multiple applications of heat and penetrating oil to start, letting it soak over night.
 
a slightly bigger nut will make it easier to weld inside it (wled won't stick to the aluminum flange but; a flux stick rod in the hole AND strike an arc? I'd say not so much.
plenty of little 110 volt MIG and TIG rigs round these days. Ask around your neighborhood.
Since the remains are proud you can get a drift on it and tap it round to help loosen. Got little to loose cutting and trying a screw driver slot.
1656089706032.png

disks ARE fragile they break easy. (So I've heard)
This type is more robust. The attachment method is brilliant!
1656089914305.png
 
The only welder I have access to is an old AC stick welder. Can this be used to weld the nut to the stud?
Also, as you can see in the photo, without the carburetors, there is room to work. What are my chances of getting this bolt out without removing the head?

Yes I believe it can .. A bit more difficult. But a reasonable skilled or better welder ..I believe can nail it.
Provided small electrodes can be obtained.
If any sensitive electrics on the bike it has to come off.the bike
I would try to make a spacer exactly the same sice diameter as the screw .
And height sticking out.
and then use a smaller nut .making a pocket so to speak giving protection . Keeping it on the outside
Wet rags there and cover on the gasket surface

Since it is a vertical surface I would look into using the other bolt hole to hold the spacer and smaller nut in place
Perhaps spot weld the spacer ( sheet metal ) and nut first
 
Easier to weld a washer to stud first and then a nut to washer. The double heating helps.
I forgot to mention that step! Say if it is a 10 mm thread piece stuck in there find a washer the same size and as heavy as you can, or take a piece of scrap steel and drill it to fit the broken threaded piece. Weld that to the broken part. then take a nut a size or two larger and weld that to the washer and broken thread. The larger size will give you a better chance to get a welding rod in there.

Another idea would be to see if there are any rental shops that have small wire feed welders, maybe a welding supply house might rent them?
 
or take a piece of scrap steel and drill it to fit the broken threaded piece.
Take a steel strap... 1/8" X 1" or so.... 'bout a foot long. Drill the (washer size) hole in the end of it and weld to stud. There's your lever to work it back and forth 'till it gives up.
 
Take a steel strap... 1/8" X 1" or so.... 'bout a foot long. Drill the (washer size) hole in the end of it and weld to stud. There's your lever to work it back and forth 'till it gives up.

Yes Sir
Not a bad idea at all . the problem I can se with the washer is holding it there in place -while welding ( With stickweld ) it .It is simpler to decide on site which way to go ..
Putting it out here 2 sizes hole on Jims suggestion.
Slightly bigger on the inside halfway trough fitting over the stud and smaller on the outside keeping the molten metal at the right place .
Can also hit the lever a little with a hammer back and fort.
 
Take a steel strap... 1/8" X 1" or so.... 'bout a foot long. Drill the (washer size) hole in the end of it and weld to stud. There's your lever to work it back and forth 'till it gives up.
This is sounding good. But what to do when the bolt breaks loose. I will only be able to turn the bar >90 deg. Maybe cut the bar with a cut off wheel leaving just enough to get 360 deg turn.
I will not be getting to this for a few days, but I'll let everyone know how it goes.
 
Back
Top