MikeC23
XS650 Addict
I'm using the stock regulator on my 79 special. All of a sudden the regulator is buzzing and the bike won't start. Ideas?
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Buzzing regulator
- Thread starter MikeC23
- Start date
Unplug the regulator, charge the battery. will it start?
MikeC23
XS650 Addict
Battery is charging, regulator is unplugged. I'll let you know tomorrow.
MikeC23
XS650 Addict
Just out of curiosity, what do you think is going on?
Not real sure, you can open up the regulator, check that the points are not stuck or dirty.
If it starts and runs, try plugging it back in??
If it starts and runs, try plugging it back in??
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Probably just a low battery. When you initially turn it on, the regulator pulls the contacts closed sending current to the rotor. The current drops the battery voltage even lower, so the regulator releases, so the battery voltage goes up again, the regulator pulls it down again etc, etc....This all happens very fast so the result is a buzzing sound.
MikeC23
XS650 Addict
I unplugged the reg. Tried electric start and it wouldn't turn over. No surprise there. So I tried the kick start and now it feels like there is low compression. I know that isn't the case because the bike (when it runs) runs great. I gapped the reg to specs. Tried the electric start again and nothing. I can hear the starter solenoid kicking in but the starter doesn't spin. I'm getting 12 volts to the top of the solenoid but only around 6 on the bottom when I hit the start button. I'm thinking now that it might be time to rebuild the starter. Thoughts?
I might do a few tests before I spent any time or money. Do you have jumper cables? If so hook one end of the red cable to battery positive, I have a spare car battery I use for this. Just hook to the spare battery as if jump starting, hook the negative to the front foot peg mount nut.
Put a large screwdriver in the other end. Now use the screwdriver as a probe and touch it to the cable lug on the starter itself. Does the starter spin? next move up to starter relay, touch the screwdriver to the cable lug of the cable going to the starter, does the starter spin?
Ok, if it passes these test jumper from the lug on the cable from the starter to the lug for the cable from the battery, does this spin the starter?
If it does then the relay may be the issue and not the starter.
If at any point you find the starter not working check connections between where you test and the starter.
Leo
Put a large screwdriver in the other end. Now use the screwdriver as a probe and touch it to the cable lug on the starter itself. Does the starter spin? next move up to starter relay, touch the screwdriver to the cable lug of the cable going to the starter, does the starter spin?
Ok, if it passes these test jumper from the lug on the cable from the starter to the lug for the cable from the battery, does this spin the starter?
If it does then the relay may be the issue and not the starter.
If at any point you find the starter not working check connections between where you test and the starter.
Leo
MikeC23
XS650 Addict
Can I accomplish the same results with my battery charger at 12v? I tried grounding the negative if that to the frame and hit the cable from the starter with the positive and had the same results. It sounds like the starter kind of wants to turn but doesn't. I will try your suggestions in the morning. Thanks!
You have a dead battery...................time to buy a new one.
No, you can't use a battery charger to test an electric starter motor.
No, you can't use a battery charger to test an electric starter motor.
A battery charger can't supply enough amps to spin the starter. Even if it's one of those car booster type chargers.
A motorcycle charger just won't do it.
You can use the battery in a car to do this test with, just don't start the car. The draw from your bikes starter won't draw down your car battery enough to notice.
If you don't want to use the car, how about the riding mower, do you have a boat, they often have batteries, I have three in mine.
Leo
A motorcycle charger just won't do it.
You can use the battery in a car to do this test with, just don't start the car. The draw from your bikes starter won't draw down your car battery enough to notice.
If you don't want to use the car, how about the riding mower, do you have a boat, they often have batteries, I have three in mine.
Leo
What does the battery voltage read after it's been on the charger? Charge it overnight take it to an auto store and have them load test it. I'm with these guys bad battery is my prime suspect. While researching buzzing voltage regulator, a bad battery was a frequently mentioned culprit.
Actually he has already done a load test,and it failed.
Quote........"I'm getting 12 volts to the top of the solenoid but only around 6 on the bottom when I hit the start button. "
This shows that the battery has dropped to 6 volts, which is a sure indication that one or 2 cells are shorted out...............battery is kaput!
But what does it read on top of the solenoid when he hits the starter? Is the voltage 12 flat or 12.??? before he starts? The devil is in the details. Battery tests are usually free and probably conclusive. There could be a solenoid or starter issue. Pinpoint the problem then use the money gun. The suggestion of jumping with a big battery from a non running vehicle is good also. Could be a bad ground strap or connection issue also.
It doesn't matter what the exact battery voltage is on the top of the starter relay (solenoid). It could be 11.5 or 12 or 12.5.............it matters not. The 12 volts will be present on the dead battery,and starter relay terminal, until the starter relay closes its contacts. With the relay contacts closed the battery tries to supply the 75 to 100 amps required by the starter motor, but with shorted cells, the current is not available, and the battery voltage drops to 6 volts.
A bad cable from the battery + terminal and/or heavy corrosion on that cable, could also see the drop to 6 volts at the starter relay.
Edit: No, its not a bad ground strap or ground connection, because those would be high resistance and the battery/solenoid would not drop the voltage from 12 volts to 6 volts. The solenoid would click, but the voltage would remain at 12 volts.
It has the classic signs of a dead battery, in my opinion.
Last edited:
MikeC23
XS650 Addict
The battery is reading about 12v
MikeC23
XS650 Addict
Oh and its a new battery
MikeC23
XS650 Addict
I'm going to have advanced auto test this puppy. I'll let you guys know the results
A 12 volt battery that reads about 12 volts is in a fairly low state of charge. About 25%
Fully charged is 12.8.
Maybe your charging system isn't working very well.
You earlier mentioned that you were charging the battery. What charger are you using?
One designed for motorcycle batteries or a car charger?
Leo
Fully charged is 12.8.
Maybe your charging system isn't working very well.
You earlier mentioned that you were charging the battery. What charger are you using?
One designed for motorcycle batteries or a car charger?
Leo
Great do the test for sure. It's not possible to get an accurate sense of a battery's charge level with just a resting voltage check, but here's a rough guideline.
You can see a reading of "about 12 volts" is meaningless here. But you get less than say 12.4 on freshly charged battery with a meter you trust, it's toast. You should be able to put say the tail light on for 10 or 15 minutes and still have about the same voltage. If the bulb has dimmed or voltage dropped more than .2 or so it's history.
We have all been suckered in by the it can't be the "polished turd" because it's brand new, trap. I spent a few quality weeks fighting my wife's Honda Shadow with a brand new, bad battery. The stink eye I got about the third time her bike wouldn't start to get her home from work would have peeled paint! That deal also involved a weak voltage regulator that "usually" worked OK but sometimes didn't. With those items replaced even her constant short tripping, low rpm operation, and funky starting technique, keep that bike happy as can be.
You can see a reading of "about 12 volts" is meaningless here. But you get less than say 12.4 on freshly charged battery with a meter you trust, it's toast. You should be able to put say the tail light on for 10 or 15 minutes and still have about the same voltage. If the bulb has dimmed or voltage dropped more than .2 or so it's history.
We have all been suckered in by the it can't be the "polished turd" because it's brand new, trap. I spent a few quality weeks fighting my wife's Honda Shadow with a brand new, bad battery. The stink eye I got about the third time her bike wouldn't start to get her home from work would have peeled paint! That deal also involved a weak voltage regulator that "usually" worked OK but sometimes didn't. With those items replaced even her constant short tripping, low rpm operation, and funky starting technique, keep that bike happy as can be.
