Caliper brake line fittings

[mrtwowheel]

Yeah, if your using custom lines you may as well get them to help you connect using that flare. Ha, I never thought about the tire direction.

Also. if the legs haven't been shaved, the disc could be kept on the same side, but you will still have to reverse the wheel.

Haven't moved these parts around myself, but I'm not understanding the above. With unshaved forks, why can't the forks be switched and the rotor be on the right side and the speedo drive stay on the left side, why must the wheel be reversed?

I should have been checking this out by now, but busy getting everyone else's bikes ready for the season except my own. To add to it all my compressor just took a shit. Better day tomorrow I hope.

Scott

 

[ScooterMagoo]

Yeah, if your using custom lines you may as well get them to help you connect using that flare. Ha, I never thought about the tire direction.



Haven't moved these parts around myself, but I'm not understanding the above. With unshaved forks, why can't the forks be switched and the rotor be on the right side and the speedo drive stay on the left side, why must the wheel be reversed?

I should have been checking this out by now, but busy getting everyone else's bikes ready for the season except my own. To add to it all my compressor just took a shit. Better day tomorrow I hope.

Scott

I'll try to explain as best I can, so bear with me. So, to do this, you have to swap fork tubes from side to side, there is no other way to do it. Just spinning the fork lowers 180 degrees will place them inside out. They have to be swapped side to side to get the caliper mounting tabs in the trailing position and the "inside" part of the fork lower in the correct position. The lowers are also machined with a flat to clearance the rotors. No matter what, the speedo drive will be on the wrong side. The wheel subsequently has to be turned around because of the spacing. If left in the opposite direction, the offset is way off. The wheel spacer and speedo drive HAVE to remain in their original position because of their specific diameters and widths. When I tried to bolt the wheel back in revesed, my rotor was making HARD contact with the lower and was impossible to mount in that position. I hope this makes sense.

 

[DaveO]

I'm in the middle of cleaning up the front end but my brake lines will need replacing (XS650B).

I was scratching my head with the fact that nearly everyone replaces the whole thing with a line with banjo on both ends which are available cheaply. Whereas mine has multiple pieces and the metal pipe at the end. I quickly realised that a banjo thread doesn't fit direct into the calliper and if it did (or an alternative was available) the face doesn't look sufficient to seal. But after a bit of casting around I found this.

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_-_Co...APTOR_1-8_BSP_WITH_10x1_CONCAVE_-_CHROME.html

(Link above edited as Scott pointed out I had posted the 1.25. )

and the cable to fit

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_-_Components_&_Lines/POWERHOSE_PLUS/POWERHOSE_PLUS_HOSE_LENGTHS

They have banjos for the master cylinder end here with the "Powerplus" fitting (1/8th BSP) http://www.venhill.co.uk/Line_Builder/DIY-HOSE-END1/3-60090C_M10_45deg_SIDE_BEND_BANJO_CHROME.html

The system is shown here

I have to figure out a brake switch but I'll look for a Master with one built in.

NB - Venhill is UK based company http://www.venhill.co.uk/Contact_us

Dave

 

[mrtwowheel]

I'm in the middle of cleaning up the front end but my brake lines will need replacing (XS650B).

I was scratching my head with the fact that nearly everyone replaces the whole thing with a line with banjo on both ends which are available cheaply. Whereas mine has multiple pieces and the metal pipe at the end. I quickly realised that a banjo thread doesn't fit direct into the calliper and if it did (or an alternative was available) the face doesn't look sufficient to seal. But after a bit of casting around I found this.

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_-_Co...TOR_1-8_BSP_WITH_10x1.25_CONVEX_-_CHROME.html

and the cable to fit

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_-_Components_&_Lines/POWERHOSE_PLUS/POWERHOSE_PLUS_HOSE_LENGTHS

They have banjos for the master cylinder end here with the "Powerplus" fitting (1/8th BSP) http://www.venhill.co.uk/Line_Builder/DIY-HOSE-END1/3-60090C_M10_45deg_SIDE_BEND_BANJO_CHROME.html

The system is shown here

I have to figure out a brake switch but I'll look for a Master with one built in

Dave

I believe that adapter that you link to is the wrong thread size, there is a M10-1.0 thread in the caliper, also you need an adapter with a female flare because the flare in the caliper is a male flare.

Scott

 

[DaveO]

Cheers Scott. Post number #15 gives the correct sizes and I misremembered. I'll tidy up my post.

 

[ScooterMagoo]

I ordered up braided lines from Speigler. They had all the fitting that I needed with no adapters whatsoever. Those will be delivered on Monday and I will get it mocked up and post pictures. I can't wait!

 

[ScooterMagoo]

So I got my brake lines and manifold and whatnot. Everything fit perfect. I love the smaller diameter lines and the look of the braided stainless. You can see the pressure switch banjo bolt installed on the tidy little manifold for the brake light actuation. It's a little too long for a good seal and will have to take a little off the length. I'll turn that off in the lathe. Now to get some of last seasons bug guts off the bike while I'm here. Pix below.

 

[mrtwowheel]

That's some fine quality ($) brake line. Looks great too.