Another thing, with a smaller battery, you want to ensure a good electrical path from the battery positive to the starter relay, from starter relay to starter, starter to engine, engine to frame, frame to battery negative.
I might suggest going up a size or two on the battery cables. I replaced the stock 10 or 8 gauge cables with 6 gauge cables. I ran the new cables from battery positive to starter relay, relay to starter. Remove the starter and clean the contact points between the starter and engine. Clean bare metal to clean bare metal. A very thin coat of grease will keep corrosion to a minimum.
On the engine to frame mounts remove at least the upper rear mounts. The kinda triangular mounts. Three bolts. Clean the contact points on the engine and mounts, mounts and frame. Again clean bare metal to clean bare metal. I do all the mounts this way to ensure a good ground path from the starter body to the frame. I also ran a 6 gauge cable from one starter mount bolt up the negative battery terminal.
Replace the negative battery cable with the heavier cable. Again clean the frame contact point so you have clean metal to metal contact. A thin coat of grease on all the connections will help prevent corrosion.
This will ensure the starter gets as much current the battery has.
Even with this done the e-start may not be 100 % reliable. On colder days or first start of the day the engine will be harder to turn, requiring more from the battery.
At times like that you can combine the kick and e-start. Get the kick lever up so your ready to kick, just as you start to kick, push the start button. This should give the extra umph needed to turn the engine.
Leo
