Maybe at least. Makes sense to me, but please shoot it down if it needs it. This pertains to the final version adjuster at least, maybe earlier versions.
Once the lock nut is loose, it's common to be able to turn the adjuster with your fingers. If you can't do that, back it out until you can turn it back in with your fingers. Turn it in with your fingers until you would need a wrench to turn it further and stop. Adjustment complete.
I believe as long as you can easily turn the adjuster with your fingers there's no real pressure of the adjuster on the chain. Turning the adjuster in as far as it will go using only your fingers puts the minimum useful pressure of the adjuster on the chain. With mine adjusted this way, the plunger is about flush with the end, as one adjustment method says it should be, and allows about a mm of movement of the plunger, as another adjustment method says it should be. And, the chain is very quiet. My previous method of adjustment was unique too, trying to get minimum useful pressure on the chain by allowing some rattle cold, which goes away when the engine is warm. The mechanism tightens up when it's warm.
EDIT. I now suggest not using this method. The problem is if the adjuster is clean, it's easy to get it much too tight this way.
Details: http://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-chain-adjustment-rethunk-again.52229/
Once the lock nut is loose, it's common to be able to turn the adjuster with your fingers. If you can't do that, back it out until you can turn it back in with your fingers. Turn it in with your fingers until you would need a wrench to turn it further and stop. Adjustment complete.
I believe as long as you can easily turn the adjuster with your fingers there's no real pressure of the adjuster on the chain. Turning the adjuster in as far as it will go using only your fingers puts the minimum useful pressure of the adjuster on the chain. With mine adjusted this way, the plunger is about flush with the end, as one adjustment method says it should be, and allows about a mm of movement of the plunger, as another adjustment method says it should be. And, the chain is very quiet. My previous method of adjustment was unique too, trying to get minimum useful pressure on the chain by allowing some rattle cold, which goes away when the engine is warm. The mechanism tightens up when it's warm.
EDIT. I now suggest not using this method. The problem is if the adjuster is clean, it's easy to get it much too tight this way.
Details: http://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-chain-adjustment-rethunk-again.52229/
Last edited: