Cam chain tensioner intense......

[Grinder]

How does the assembly come apart so this damper can be installed?

 

[XS1961]

RetiredGent, I used to buy mine from Halco but these days I make my own from suitably sized plastic tubing or washers from my local bearing traders.
Mikes XS supplies them now?

 

[anysnail]

all you gotta do it unscrew that biznatch until it comes out. there will be a spring, plunger, and a distinct space where the damper should be! LOL

 

[retiredgentleman]

anysnail and xs1961;
Thanks for the info on the damper.

 

[XSLeo]

The damper Mike's sells is two thin steel washers laminated on each side of a rubber washer. It works well.
I don't think it works with the early models. The plunger rod is different from early to late. If you have one of each, compare them side by side. The adjustable part is different too. You need to use the early rod with early adjuster, later to later. If you mix them up the rod will be way to short, or way too long. I don't recall which way is which, It was a couple years ago I had them both in my hand.

 

[5twins]

The newer rod is longer. That new rubber/metal damper washer is thicker than the older copper one. If you put the new washer on an old assembly, the rod will no longer come out flush with the adjuster end when set correctly. This makes setting the tension difficult to say the least. You can make the rod flush by tightening the adjuster but then it doesn't move, indicating it's set too tight.

The new washer did nothing for my '78 as far as noise levels go but I already had the copper one in there to begin with. I'm sure it might help if you have no washer in there now. I recently swapped the later rod, spring, and adjuster screw w/ locknut into my original housing. It works better with that new thicker washer as now I can see the end of the rod. It's still not out completely flush like my original set-up was but at least I can see it now to do the adjustment while idling the motor. I like the idea of that locknut on there, too. Before, there was no way of knowing if installing the acorn nut cap was changing the adjustment on me.

This new style damper washer is still available from Yamaha for a dollar or 2 more than Mike's. I found out it was also used on the SR500. I have a couple 500 parts motors laying around so I had access to one and didn't even know it. I wasted $8 buying one from Mike's. I hate when that happens, lol.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Good info there 5twins...............thanks for passing on your experience.

 

[retiredgentleman]

After seeing 5twins picture with the copper damper (washer), I was thinking back to the last time I had the tensioner out of the engine. I couldn't remember seeing a damper. So, today I pulled the tensioner out, and there was no damper...............the PO strikes again

I had a look through some of my spare parts boxes, and came across a used copper washer from somewhere. It didn't fit but was close. I drilled the hole slightly larger and filed the outer edge slightly. Put the tensioner back into the engine and went for a test ride. The damper (copper washer) seems to have further quieted the engine, so all is well.

Thanks 5twins for bringing this to my attention.

 

[OldGuy]

A little more on the same subject. Have a 1979 650SF motor and set the cam tensioner up according to the Haynes manual. Tensioner plunger flush with the outer adjuster bolt on a cold engine. Chain rattle was very noticable. Re-adjusted the chain tensioner with the engine hot and the rattle stop with the plunger less than 1mm past flush with the outer adjuster bolt. Also had a little more than 2mm inward movement. Imagine I'll be replacing parts in the future but it works for now.

 

[650sf]

I did the same a while back, I'm hoping it stays quiet indefinitely or at least until it's time for a top end rebuild.

 

[XSLeo]

OldGuy. I like to adjust with warm engine at idle. Adjust it so the rods moves about 1-2 mm's with it just coming out flush with the adjuster. It works well for me.

 

[OldGuy]

OldGuy. I like to adjust with warm engine at idle. Adjust it so the rods moves about 1-2 mm's with it just coming out flush with the adjuster. It works well for me.

I tried that, but it still rattled too much being flush. That's why it's just a little long of being flush.

 

[Villajrracer]

You guys post some good info for us noobs, I picked up a 78 SE and I'm still working all the bugs out of it. I've been fightin timing alot, I keep adjusting the cam tensioner with little results. So I took it out and noticed the end is all chewed up. Got a flashlight and a mirror, stuck it through the hole to see inside and all I see is cam chain. My guess is that the cam chain tensioner guide is missing or broken. I did get this from craigslist so anyones guess as to what was done to it before is as good as mine. Think I might crack open the top and see what I find or don't find.

 

[CDNTX650]

You guys post some good info for us noobs, I picked up a 78 SE and I'm still working all the bugs out of it. I've been fightin timing alot, I keep adjusting the cam tensioner with little results. So I took it out and noticed the end is all chewed up. Got a flashlight and a mirror, stuck it through the hole to see inside and all I see is cam chain. My guess is that the cam chain tensioner guide is missing or broken. I did get this from craigslist so anyones guess as to what was done to it before is as good as mine. Think I might crack open the top and see what I find or don't find.

4 or 6 bolt holes on the tensioner mount on the jugs. ?

Nvm. Thought you might have a 256 engine with the sprocket type tensioner. But those cases won't fit in a newer frame. Guessing some idiot p.o, forgot the rear tensioner assembly

Posted via Mobile

 

[5twins]

I've heard of people doing some strange things to these bikes but leaving a major engine component like that out completely is a new one on me, lol.

 

[Villajrracer]

6 bolts on the tensioner mount