Hi guys, does anyone know if the front cam chain guide can be changed without removing camshaft, I do not know if mine needs doing but will be dropping the sump soon and replacing filter with a Heiden one, I will find out then if I need a new guide as there will be rubbish and aluminium in the bottom.
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can cam chain guide be done without removing cam
- Thread starter kevski
- Start date
CDNTX650
XS650 Guru
Probably easier, motor has to be out of frame anyways if you plan on getting into it.
It's best to have the cylinder taken right off because you have to align the front guide, center it in the cam chain tunnel. You do that by measuring off the sides of the tunnel to the side of the guide, at both the top and the bottom of the cylinder block. You can't see or measure the bottom position of the guide with the motor assembled.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
uh....oh. I just eyeballed mine. meh.
CDNTX650
XS650 Guru
Thats all i did. Just looked down with a flash light when i put the chain on....looks like its sitting in the guide.
speaking of cam chain guides, I was thinking of getting some PA46 a high-performance polyamide and machining a set of guides to try out. Instead of using metal material as a baker for the guides make them completely out of the PA46. I see they are making after market harley twin cam guides from it.
Any one have any thoughts on this topic?
Or should I start a new thread on this?
Any one have any thoughts on this topic?
Or should I start a new thread on this?
cruzin this thread may interest you.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38344&highlight=cam+chain+guide
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38344&highlight=cam+chain+guide
I am Carbon
shade tree mechanic
As 5twinns said you should make sure the guide is centered
I see how the guide could be changed with the cam in place anyway.
guide installation
I see how the guide could be changed with the cam in place anyway.
guide installation
I checked that thread out a few days ago and commented in it. That thread got me to thinking so I researched for the best material. Internet is great. And called a plastic supplier that Ive used in the past and they do not stock it but can get it for me. I wanted to get a small piece of it and cut a front and rear and put in a test motor but there is a minimum you have to buy from them. Cost is right at 900 bucks.
My question on making it totally from pa46 would there be bending without the metal backing.
Well I have had the sump off this afternoon and there is not a single piece of plastic or ally in the oil, in a previous life someone has torn the motor down and appears to have done the job, as you can see from the pics the filter is shot and a repair attempted, there is some red stuff on a part of near the hole, they also liked silicone sealer and applied copious amounts to the cover, prior to this job I decided to check the timing statically and on a strobe although the engine is running perfectly the timing marks would not line up, I adjusted the timing by moving the points plate and it started to run rough so I put it back to how it was, the only thing I can think of is that the rotor has spun because I have found a 4mm woodruff key in the casing, previous owner again, still I have a PMA to go on and a Heiden oil filter.
At least you dont have to pull the motor down all the way to change the guides. I must get old broken motors I had a honda 350 a few years back and the inside of the motor was packed with aluminium powder and the xs Im working on needed the front guide replaced.
Had the non working starter out this evening, now that's a pig to get the rear bolts out cleaned all the contacts and cable connection copper greased and new nuts and washers back in and Hoorah one starter turning the engine over and no grinding.
Had the non working starter out this evening, now that's a pig to get the rear bolts out cleaned all the contacts and cable connection copper greased and new nuts and washers back in and Hoorah one starter turning the engine over and no grinding. 
Sump back on and filled with oil today, pressed the button and away she went,
alternator cover removed and stator and reg/rectifier, locating dowel made on lathe as one was missing, rotor removal tomorrow and a PMA going back on hopefully at the weekend.
The red stuff you see in the hole is the "glue" they put the filter together.
Clean the filter well, then fix it.
Always nice to have several. I have several patched filters, and sump plates. At oil change times, I just swap the dirty plate/filter for a clean set.
Leo
Clean the filter well, then fix it.
Always nice to have several. I have several patched filters, and sump plates. At oil change times, I just swap the dirty plate/filter for a clean set.
Leo
PMA system on timed up, 13.4v at idle 14.5 at 2.5k, carbs balanced, sealed beam states side headlamp unit replaced with halogen bulb type, just waiting for my fork legs to get here from Moscow Idaho which covered the 6140 miles to Coventry UK in 5 and 1/2 days thank you USPS, the Royal Snail have now had them for 3 and 1/2 days and they have not moved. 
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