Carb slides slightly askew

Usually, with everything set right, these are easy starting machines. And they usually kick start just as easy, if not easier, than electric start. On the one hard starter I worked on, the issue turned out to be improperly set float heights. The fuel levels in the bowls were too low which I'm guessing was starving the bike for fuel, especially when a richer mix was most needed (during start up). So, when you install the new float needles and seats, do carefully check the float levels to insure they're correct. This is what I found on that hard starter, much too low .....

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Oh, yes. Exactly, when things are right, the XS is one of the easiest kick starting bikes. There were times when I hardly pushed down and it would start. In 76, when i acquired her, I only kicked it and used the starter only when stalling at lights. A year later it stopped working, so kicking was the only way. Never worried about it not starting. Even with low compression, I never had a problem.
Well, carbs are off and in the basement. Putting the new float needle assemblies in tomorrow. Can't wait.
 
Well no, but I am aware of the different seal thicknesses. The first seals used by Yamaha were the thinnest @ 5mm thick. They changed to 6mm thick seals for quite some time but have now gone back to those original 5mm thick ones. The thing is, in this application, you don't want a thick seal. The cam doesn't stick out much on each end. Too thick of a seal won't sit on the cam end enough to seal very well. Mike's sells 7mm thick seals and most report they don't work very well at all.
 
New float needle assemblies are in. Went for a ride today for about an hour. Left the house, it was 40 degrees. Came home and it was 31 degrees. My knees were freezing.
Anyway, it ran like crap at first. Let it warm up and stopped in a parking lot to attempt to fine tune the air mix. 1/2 a turn seemed OK, but there was some backfiring again. Made some cable adjustments on the fly and it went smoother. It idled around 1200, but hesitated on blips, messed with the mix and finally settled on 5/8ths, It blipped better, so I headed home, then it would slowly die when I came to a stop. Had to work the throttle at every light. I hate that. Oh, at a constant 70, it would hesitate in short negative blips every 10 or 20 seconds.
Just a note: Installed the new float stuff and I had to readjust the levels. They were way off with the new needles.
I haven't spent enough time with it; it was too cold. I'll do the dead cylinder adjustment when it's a little warmer. Then I will recheck the float levels and maybe put the original pilot jets back in.
 
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Back again! I wasn't happy with the poor or non-existent kick starting, inconsistent idling, dying at lights. I had no confidence in traveling anywhere. Yanked the carbs, again, to re-check the float heights and maybe put the original pilot jets back in. Low and behold, I missed something. (It seems more and more common as the years progress). The right float has a hole in it. Notice the 3/16ths crevice and the pitting around it. Pitting not easily seen, but it is definitely not smooth in that area. Could it be the alcohol in the gas? Age?
So, I have 2 spares from the 75 and guess what. Yup, 1 of them also leaks. My carbs were relatively clean while sitting for 23 years, but the 75 bowls were filled with burnt molasses.
Ok, couldn't initially kick start it, but went out for a ride with my little screw driver. Only made adjustments whilst being stopped on top of a big hill. Went over Blood Mountain and back, about 100 miles. It idled fine, ran smooth, throttle blips were crisp, but still doesn't kick start all the time.
Perhaps I'm not measuring the floats heights properly, eh?image.jpegimage.jpeg
 
Perhaps, but with the BS38s, it's pretty easy to measure them because there's no jet block or tower between the two float "bulbs". You place your steel rule on the far side and sight evenly over the tops of the "bulbs". These are '77 floats set at 25mm but I think your earlier carbs spec 24mm .....

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Measure from both sides to detect any twists in the pivot bracket. It's not uncommon to find that.
 
Marlin, I made my M8x1.0 threaded drainplug adapters.
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Do a search on "clear tube" posted by "5twins". I recall he found an eBay vendor who offers these adapters...
 
The Ace out here didn't have any M8x1.0 fine pitch, but I found some in steel at Napa. An alternative would be to get 2 drainplugs from MikesXS (they're plated brass), drill out, and solder some brass tubing...
 
That yellow tubing makes it very difficult to see. Is this what I'm seeing? .....

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If so, that could make starting more difficult.
 
OK, well properly set the level usually reads a little higher like so .....

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You must make sure the bike is sitting level when you take this reading or it will be off. If a re-check with the bike level confirms your reading then you could tweak the float setting a little. Low fuel levels in the carbs can cause difficult starting.
 
Sorry, for the slow response time. Yes, all was level. Had a Home inspection today and they needed the report tonight. Very interesting that 2mm could make such a difference. I mean, with all that splashing around in there and all the vibrations, there must be all sorts of standing waves in there. Well, I guess AVERAGE depth means something here. When I got back today, I had to start it to use as a comparison before I reset the float levels again. Guess what, after about 5 kicks to free up the clutch, it started in 1. I know, probably a fluke, but I will re-adjust in a few days. Thanks again, as always. If you come to this year's Rally, I'm buying. That goes for you, too, Steve. Loaded Land Sharks!
 
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